Hot starting problems after removing EGR

Discussion in 'Diesel' started by mexicorich, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. mexicorich Forum Member

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    Has anyone any suggestions for me?

    PD130 I have removed the combined EGR and anti-run on choke, replaced it with an Allard straight through pipe and the engine now usually takes longer to start when hot. Has to be turned over for a good few seconds before firing up instead of being pretty much instant as before

    N75 valve pipes are plugged and the engine has run really well for the last few thousand miles but has this issue of having to be churned over when hot.

    Cold starting is always still instant

    Help?
     
  2. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    when my egr decided to stick open on the pd130 the car was practically impossible to start, that was the main symptom

    i dont understand how yours would be harder to start without an egr though
     
  3. mexicorich Forum Member

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    Is no-one practiced in the dark art of the PD diesel?
     
  4. mexicorich Forum Member

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    Bumpedy, bump, bump, bump!
     
  5. aidanb22 Forum Member

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    Could just clean out the EGR and put it back on? That flap is a good defence in the event of a run away
     
  6. DAZTDGTI Forum Member

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    Removing the egr will not cause a hot starting fault as such because there,s now no air shutter of valve because is been removed
    There is one test when the vehicle is warm disconnect the maf and see if it starts ok. Also check the injectors as well
     
  7. garnetteyes Forum Member

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    It could be unrelated to the EGR removal. Have you got access to a multimeter? You could resistance check the coolant temperature sensor, this could cause a warm starting problem.

    Might also be worth a fault code read
     
  8. mexicorich Forum Member

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    The car is running geat with as good a fuel consuption as ever so wasn't really suspicious of MAF?
     
  9. mexicorich Forum Member

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    I've got a multimeter
    What should I be looking for with coolant temp sensor readings?
     
  10. garnetteyes Forum Member

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    With the multimeter set to ohms..

    [​IMG]

    At 0 *C 5000-6500 ohms
    10 *C 3350-4400 ohms
    20 *C 2250-3000 ohms
    30 *C 1500-2000 ohms
    40 *C 900-1400 ohms
    50 *C 700-950 ohms

    I'd just check it at a couple of different temps (one of them can be the outside temperature!)
     
  11. Crispy 8V CGTI Committee - Club Secretary Admin

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    I agree the EGR removal will make no difference to the starting of it

    temp sensor a likely problem
     
  12. mexicorich Forum Member

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    And where am I looking for temp sender on a 130 PD please?
     
  13. mexicorich Forum Member

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    yes but curious that it coincidentally happened at exactly the same time :-(
     
  14. mexicorich Forum Member

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    Finally discovered my hot starting problem
    If you search the internet for "Hamman mod TDI warm start" all becomes apparent
    Some of the earlier TDIs have defective ECU mapping. At warm and hot temperatures there is no fuelling map at low revs.
    If the engine is above 70 degrees, then there is no fuelling map below 280rpm. The engine doesn't fuel until the ageing starter motor/battery gets the engine above 280rpm
    My 2002 car seems to suffer the problem. I have seen a map published for a 2003 Beetle where the map had been fixed.
    My car has responded to a new battery and tightening the heavy load cable from the underside of the starter solenoid into the starter, turns over slightly quicker and now starts quickly again when hot.
    I didn't need to resort to the "hamman mod" which is to insert a 2000k resistor in-line withe the temp sensor wired to only be effective via a relay during starter operation, so tricking the ECU into thinking the engine is cooler, then triggering an incorrect map for starting a colder engine but at least allowing it to start
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012

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