The earths can do a difference! I had my rev counter shut off when I turned the lights on... And the high beams led would light on... Grounded the strap that snaped, and everything was online again
mmmm sounds a little like my g60 problem tbh which an ecu sort of fixed but the problems trying to creep back! have you checked your fuel pump relay for any burnt pins etc? also worth checking the fuel pump fuse i think,if the fuel pumps dodgy the fuse may be slightly melted. sorry if youve already covered this in the thread. edit:damn! were not thinking fuelling is the problem,sorry m8 Edited by: riley
I don't suppose anyone out there has got a decent wiring diagram for the golf/corrado 16v? The diagram in the haines manual is pretty cack!
The tacho works from reading the spikes at the coil from the +ve side I think? Have you checked the charge rate from cold and after a decent run? Also when I was wiring the MegaSquirt in I found awfull tach spikes from the hall sensor on cranking, maybe worth you grounding the brown-white wire from the hall sender directly to the battery?
I'll try that hall sender trick, cheers Keith. How do you check the charge rate? Also you mentioned earlier about checking the ECU's power supply. This wiring diagram is confusing the hell out of me! It looks like the ECU is getting a 12v feed from the black/white cable which is connected to the black wire coming from the coil +ve somewhere in the loom. It also appears to have a live feed coming from the red/yellow, I've got a feeling this only supplies 12v when the car is being cranked, need to test this tomorrw. There's also a black/yellow wire and a green/white going to (or coming from) the ECU via the 4 teminal connector, the green/white isn't even on the diagram, although it is connected to a black/red wire which might be on the diagram. EDIT: Just figured out the black/yellow comes from the closed throttle switch. When it's closed you get 12v between terminals 6 and 3(earth) and when it's open the voltage drops to zero. Edited by: MillSpeed
Hokay, I've now got the ECU and ignition system running completely independantly of the rest of the car on its own switchable feed direct from the battery. The fuel pump now earths at the connector (the fuel pump now runs continuously with the ignition on). Problem persists, aaargh!! So this leads me to think that it MUST be a problem with the ECU since the hall sender is new, vac signal is good, temp sender is good (tried all three on the side of the head). Fitting a complete ignition system off another car this weekend (this'll be ECU #3) and if that doesn't work I'm gonna set fire to this heap of sh*t. Does anybody know if the ECU is looking for a signal from some component elsewhere in the system at tickover? Also, I've monitored the voltage being supplied to the ECU. It fluctuates, but doesn't seem to go below 13.8v, even when the problem occurs. I was thinking that maybe the ECU had a voltage threshold above/below which the ECU would go into limp mode. Anyone heard of anything like that?
do the kr corrado's have a knock sensor? i know the 2.0 9a does,could possibly be a problem if the wire is damaged,or the bolt is overtightened. the digi 1 ecu's have a safety/limp mode that happens at lower than 12 volts i think,the kr ecu dosnt do this afaik. neil.
It doesn't appear to have a knock sensor. I'm not sure if the later KR cars had one, mine's a '90. I'm gonna try running an earth directly from the alternator body to the -ve battery terminal. I've changed the brushes in the alternator, is there a separate voltage regulator as well? Edited by: MillSpeed
The 9A has a knock sensor, the KR doesn't. The brushes and regulator come as one pack, held in by two little screws.......
ive just asked this question,but the other way round. ive just replaced the voltage regulator on the corrado 10 from gsf. where are the brushes? not part of the volt reg? sorry to go off topic m8. edit:cheers tsc edit again for pic of my old volt reg/brush pack,ah so the worn bits are the brushes! Edited by: riley
The brushes are held in by two philips head screws, the assembly is usually made of white plastic and extends into the body of the alternator. I think the brushes themselves are made of graphite (or something that looks like graphite!), they're just two little spring-loaded rectangular blocks which make contact with the alternator shaft...sound familiar? I'm not sure if the voltage regulator is part of that assembly. EDIT: just seen your pic, is the voltage reg included in that assembly? Edited by: MillSpeed
F*CKING WHORE!!!! Well there we have it folks, I'm officially out of ideas....the b*tch has beaten me. Fitted another alternator thinking maybe the diode pack was failing and chucking out AC current. Just let her sit & idle now & after about 2 minutes the problem re-appears. I want to kill my Corrado. Anyways, all is not lost since the mechanical distributor from a 1 litre polo fits straight on to the KR head. Vacuum advance anyone? Stand by for pics!
