Sorry to ask this as I'm sure there are millions of posts about this but I've done a search and can't find a how to guide. Could someone talk me through how to do an oil change on a J reg Mk2 Golf GTI 8v? Also is 10w40 the best choice for all year round? Thanks very much
if its standard ride height just roll under neath, undo the drain plug on the sump. let it drain. drains better if the oil is hot. when it stops, put the plug back in. pull the container forward, get the oil filter off. fill the new filter half way with new oil, screw it on following the instructions tighten the sump plug according to the instructions fill with the right amount of oil. 10w40 is fantastic for it. go to gsf and get fuchs titan 10w40 semi or see if your local dealer does quantum syntha. both fantastic for your golf
warm the engine up,warm oil comes out quicker when its warm as its thinner switch engine off and put the car on axle stands remove the oil filler cap go under the car and using a 19mm spanner undo the sump drain plug with a bowl under the sump (one that can hold 5L) very carefully unscrew the drain plug,remember the oil will be very hot and wont drain vertical,it will pee out at say 45 degrees wait for 5 mins or so or untill the oils stops trickling out undo the oil filter,anti clockwise,this may be very tight,use a filter wrench or big grips,make sure the seal at the top of the filter comes off to,the new filter has one on,if the old one is left on you will get a leak when all the oil has stopped draining get the new filter and smear some of the old oil around the new filter seal,screw the new filter on until it stops then give it a good nip hand tight,dont use the filter wrench to tighten it then refit the sump plug with new copper washer,there is probably a torque setting but i just wind it up finger tight then about an 1/8th to 1/4 turn to nip it up fill up the engine through where the oil cap sits,you need the correct spec for your engine,usually 3.5 to 4 liters of oil,remember to look at the spec with oil and filter change ,not just oil as a filter will take 0.5 liters of oil refit the oil filler cap the run the engine for a few minutes,switch off and check the oil level and top up if needs be,then check for leaks around the filter and the sump plug
And pop to Halfords and get one of these: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_525117_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 Makes it much less hassle.
i always stick a can of engine cleaner in when im about 5 miles from home then gently ride home. halfords also do a 3 point claw type device that you put on a ratchet which is easier than both above suggestions for removing the filter.
Poofs! Just get under the car grab hold of the filter & twist it hard! Also, try to keep hold of the sump nut when you undo it, if you drop it into whatever you're draining the oil into it's a b***er to fish around in hot oil trying to find it.
Cheers guys, much appreciated DC75, when do you put the engine cleaner in, before or after oil change?
i was servicing a car not long ago where the filter had to be removed with a breaker bar and chain too to say "it had been on" for a long time was an understatement, all this despite the car having been sent away for servicing annually. they just never replaced the filter as it was on a bit tight. the engine was a bit tappy before hand, i had the sump down to clean up the oil pump but it would have been the filter resticting oil flow
If you really really get stuck with the filter you can always bang a screwdriver through it and use that as a lever. But that is old school filter changing from my uni days, and not what i would recommend now! Ian...
^^^ Top tool and helped me get my VR6 oil filter off for the first time. First tried those metal straps - failed Then tried the 'Boa grip' thing - failed Got the chain tool and straight away it came off Great thing too is using a socket set and long reach attachment it makes it so easier to twist in small tight spaces. Oh and make sure you're careful where you wrap the chain on if its tight, i tend to stick to the end of the filter with the flat edges rather than halfway down the filter as my father found when the filter just crumpled on his Audi 80
Sureley on the VR6 you just need a 36mm socket?? The chain is more likely to damage the plastic housing. On the standard filters then just use the Hazet 3417 tool from VW (12) or Halfords sell a cheaper copy made by Laser. Fair enough you can mess around with chains, straps and even screwdrivers but what's the point when the correct tool costs peanuts.
in an ideal world. in an ideal world people wouldnt put them on at HEMAN torque. in an ideal world they filter would be changed at every service. in an ideal world they wouldnt fit a bosch copy filter (much thinner metal) so the 76mm tool went on the bosch filter (remember the one that needed a breaker bar to remove) and straight away rounded the flat edges on the base of the filter chain worked tho
I don't bother with the drain plug any more. Pull out the dipstick, chuck the Pela vacuum extractor in there. Loosen filter with boa, or by hand (it's always me that did it up last so it's never too hard). Feed a ziplok-type bag over the filter and as high up beyond as poss, spin off old filter into bag. Etc.
much easier option = slam your car on scene-safe KW coilovers, slam car really low, drive hard at some speedbumps, rip-off your sump, buy new sump, fill new sump with oil, bolt it on this guarantees oil changes every 5 miles *note this is not the correct method as per Haynes / Bentley manuals
put the cleaner in before the oil change, i literally put it in about 5 miles from home and gently(no hard revving) go on my way, you put the stuff in where you put your oil in, as soon as you do it you will hear the engine get a bit quieter as it starts doing its job. not all people do this.
