This is a guide showing how to fit a Toad AI606 Alarm and Immobiliser into a Golf MK1 with the later spec CE1 wiring This is also the same as the Golf MK2 Pre-90 spec. What is a Toad AI606 and why would I want one? The Toad AI606 is a Thatcham CAT 1 approved Alarm and Immobiliser, the Toad AI606 is recognised by insurance companies, so if you need an CAT 1 to get insurance cover or to lower the premium but do not want to fork out up 300 then this is the way to go. The AI606 or Toad is cheap to buy (100 inc delivery) and simple to fit. It is a very good Alarm and Immobiliser which has a remote key fob to switch on and off. You can link the Toad up to your central locking system so that when you arm it the vehicle locks, you can also link it up to you electric windows for a full closure system. There are many other useful things the Toad can do. I ordered the alarm and it arrived within a couple of days, in the pack you get the Toad AI606 control unit plus the wiring loom, the siren, 2 x key fobs, 2 x Ultrasonic sensors, full instructions, a plunger for the bonnet, brackets, cable ties and lots of screws to secure everything in place. In addition to the Toad you will need Wire cutters/strippers. Heat shrink/Insulating tape. Soldering Iron and Solder. A crimping tool. A drill and 10mm & 8mm drill bit. 3 x Rectifying Diodes. X amount of wire in some cases. Before you start ripping into the car, you need to prep the Toad and identify which wires you will be using and which wires you can neatly fold away (in case you will use them at a later date) or cut off to save on bulk. The wiring diagram is quite good, the wires are easy to identify either by colour, or a coloured band of heat shrink. Once you have identified which wires you are using mark the wire at the end with a piece of masking tape and write on it what it does. After I identified each wire I would mark the diagram with a tick if I was using it or a cross if not. Once you have done this lay the wires out on a flat surface and stretch them out, now tape them together at varying spaces so that the loom is easier to move around and thread through the car. Disconnect the battery terminals before go any further. Once you have done this, take the Toad out to the car and remove the complete lower dash and centre console. Decide where you are going to mount the control unit (Out of sight and in a hard place to find. Preferably somewhere where you would have to remove the lower dash to get to it) and then route the wiring around to the various positions. For the indicators to flash you need splice in to the loom at the back of the hazard switch. The Toad wire colours for these wires are BLACK/GREEN & BLACK/WHITE The colours of the wires on the back of the hazard plug that you need to splice into are BLACK/GREEN & BLACK/WHITE Simple At this point do not join the wires together!!! Measure the Toads loom up and cut it down to size if you cut the masking tape off then re apply so you know what is what! For the Toad to gain power it will need permanent live feed, I used Section P on the back of the fuse box all of these are live feeds directly from the battery. See here for a wiring diagram. The Toad permanent live feed wire is BLACK with RED heat shrink. The Toad requires a switch ignition live. (Note you cannot use a permanent 12v supply so make sure you get the correct side of the switched wire) The Toad wire for this is BLACK with ORANGE heat shrink. Join this wire to the switch ignition wire in the car BLACK Position A Pin 8 I spliced this wire to the larger of the two black wires coming out of the back of the ignition barrel. The Toad has a warning LED that needs to be mounted so that it can be seen from the drivers seat, also mount it so that it can be seen from all angles outside of the vehicle as a deterrent. The LED flash red when armed, it will flash green when unarmed but before a doors is opened, and will stay green when unarmed and ready to start. The LED is also used to set up the Toad, certain flashes will indicate various things. There LED is very simple mount, drill an 8mm hole, push through and then pope the cap on. I mount the LEDs in a blank switch on the dash. There are two earth wires that run out of the Toad. These are both BLACK with GREEN heat shrink. Run these wires to a point on the metal body of the car and attach with the self tapping screw supplied. Do not fit these to an earthing point that other components are attached! Make sure that you sand of the paint on the surrounding area to make a good contact. For the Toad to recognise a door has been opened you need to connect the Toad up to the door opening pins. These are already in place and require a Diode to be spliced in due the circuit in the car This way you will keep the convenient light system. If you do not have a diode you will need to unplug the convenient light system on the door push buttons the brown wire otherwise you will get false alarms. To fit with the diode, remove the door switch, and cut the brown wire. Solder the diode between the cut brown wire. Now solder the Toad wire to the very end of the brown wire past the diode i.e. closet to the door switch. Repeat for all doors, splicing extra wire as needed into the Toads green wire. The Toad wire for the door switch is GREEN. Make sure that your diode is facing the correct way!!! The boot switch is wired in the same way as the door switches, if you do not have a boot plunger nip down to Halfords and buy one. The Toad wire colour for this is GRAY/WHITE The Ultrasonic sensors are very easy to install, simply connect to the Toad loom using the push connectors. To mount the sensors select a sensible place, they need to be able to cover the doors and the windows. Some people mount them high looking down, using the clip supplied to attach to some trim. I think this looks messy so I mount mine into the dash Simply drill a hole into your dash.you need big b@lls for this Feed the wire through and push into place for a neat finish. If you have extra wire wrap it up, tie away securely using a cable tie. To fit the bonnet plunger is very important, as this trigger is there to stop a thief getting under the bonnet and ripping the siren out of the car making it easy for than to then override and steel. Find a suitable place on the slam panel to mount the plunger. Drill a 10mm hole and fix the trigger in place with the supplied security screw. Check that the bonnet pushes the plunger down when closed. If not then add a block of material the correct thickness to the bonnet. I used the block of plastic from a MK2 Golf GTi locked on the inside of the boot it does the same job and would have plunged the boot trigger. The Toad wire for this is BLACK attached to the Siren alarm loom. Fitting the siren unit is very simple, it needs to fitted into the engine bay somewhere, so that it can project its warning nice a loudly. Plus it is out the way so the thief will struggle to rip it out. A lot of alarm fitters mount the siren to the rear firewall in the engine bay to me this is not hidden enough an looks unsightly too. So use you imagination and mount it somewhere out of sight, ie the scuttle tray, in the chassis leg, behind the battery, under the slam panel etc. I mounted mine under the scuttle tray using the bolts for the coil. I fed the wring through original grommets through the firewall and into the car. Simple. The wiring loom here is self explanatory with a 4 point multi plug that connects to the Toads wiring loom. Right then, All of the wiring above is what is needed for the alarm to work as intended, what is left is just connecting up the immobiliser. This is simple, you have four wires that make up two circuits. For the immobiliser to work you need to cut out a wire that is curial for the vehicle to run and join it into one of these circuits. You have two circuits so you could immobilise two different critical wires on the car it is up to you to choose which wires to immobilise. The best circuits are STARTER FUEL PUMP COIL 12v INJECTORS ECU The Toad wiring for the immobiliser are 2 x BLACK with BLUE heat shrink. 2 x BLACK with WHITE heat shrink. EDIT This is an example of how to immobilise a circuit, it is not recommended to immobolise just the starter motor but another circuit as well. See above for example circuits. To immobilise my vehicle I chose the starter wire to cut. This is the thick red and black wire coming from the back of the barrel. Car wire colour is RED and BLACK Connector block B and pin 8 Because this wire was so thick I decided to run both the immobiliser circuits to this one wire. I like to use the starter wire as if someone does get in and try to steel it, it will not even turn over so hopefully they will get bored quickly and leave it alone. If the fuel pump was only immobilised then they could be there for ages turning the engine over be they realise it is immobilised. In this picture you will see the two wires connected to the one red and black starter wire. NOTE this is a pic of a different loom and alarm not fitted by me and IMO poorly fitted. When I splice any of my wires I always solder do not use those crappy Halfords plastic three way splitters and to make the alarm the most secure splice all the wires as close to the fuse box as possible. (Not up by the barrel) This requires you to trace the wire and takes more time BUT it makes it a million times harder for a thief to work out what has been spiced and what would need to be bridge, plus down behind the fuse box is a very hard place to see and work on even in the best of conditions. Ok so you have now cut all the wires to length and mounted all the parts that need to be mount, at this stage I took the Toad from the car and soldered all the joins I could. Then I wrapped the loom to conceal the wires. Take the Toad back to the car fit and solder the remaining joins. Reconnect the battery and test all the triggers on the Toad. If the entire vehicle is closed correctly and your wiring is good the Toad will chirp once to arm and chirp twice to disarm. If the Toad chips 4 Times you have a problem with the boot or bonnet switch. If the Toad chips 5 Times you have a problem with the door switches. If the Toad chips 6 Times you have a problem with the Ultrasonic sensors. If the Toad chips 7 Times you have a problem with the ignition. All being well the Toad will be working correctly, next you can go about setting up the functions. Eg, Chirp when armed, lock doors when engine is started, auto arm after a set time etc etc the list is long. Follow the guide bellow in pics on how to do this. HTH
Excellent guide and good write-up. Made sticky as requested. This, along with the other washer bottle thread, could be made FAQs later. I installed an AI606 myself and I found that the software switch programming instructions were a bit ambiguous in one aspect. You know when you go to select the second software switch number by pressing the button X number of times, and then it chirps the number back to you? I seem to recall that the number of chirps it returns is actually the switch number minus one. So you hit the button five times for instance to select switch 2-5, but it'll chirp four times back at you. Something like that anyway. Another thing with the AI606 is that it should have been able to drive the standard MK2 central locking pump directly. The four-second setting is sufficiently long enough to drive the pump to the point where its internal switch clicks (so that the doors are fully locked or unlocked, and the pump is then ready to work in the opposite direction). It SHOULD have worked just fine. And it did, until I tried to unlock the car after a long period of being set. After a lot of head-scratching I came to the conclusion that there's a firmware glitch with the AI606 that makes it issue a very short lock / unlock pulse under certain conditions, when it's supposed to do a four-second one. Therefore, a five-wire solenoid really is the only way. Cheers Trev
Thanks Trev, interesting about the Toad having a possible firmware glitch, in the future i plan on installing central locking to the MK1, glad you have highlighted the problem, ill now forget about using the VAG pump system and look to use an after market system.
Ah, you can still use the VAG pump without any problems, but you have to use a five-wire solenoid in the driver door. The AI606 drives the solenoid (two wires), and then the solenoid's internal switch (remaining three wires) replace the existing VAG switch in the door that drives the pump. Trev
And if you get one without a fitting instructions: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/betyouaint/Ai606_Install.pdf
With CE2 equiped cars there is no need to splice wires really I have crimped mine directly ino the VW loom using the proper terminals from VW and a propper ratchet crimp tool. Using a indicator stalk loom from a MK3 gives you a two pin connector to wire the indicator outputs to this is used for the indicator warining lights for the clocks on a MK3 just cut the plug from the clocks loom pop out the termanals and crimp to the toad loom using the proper crimps and tool. Trev, wiring up any alarm systm to the CDL pump on a MK2 will never work. I set up my toad to do this but due to the vac CDL not being able to operate the drivers door lock due to the VW syseem only having a switch in the drivers door not a combined vac acuator. Due to this it will only ever unlock the boot, fuel flap and other doors, not the drivers, you can either use a two wire linked to the orignial door switch or a 5 wire motor inplace of the original switch unit.
Yep, I said above that in the end, using the five-wire actuator was the only way. But the point I'm making is that driving the CL pump directly from the AI606 SHOULD have worked. The only reason why it didn't work reliably when I did it this way was because the AI606 would sometimes issue a lock / unlock pulse that was far too short; that is, it wouldn't always issue the four-second pulse that it was programmed to do so. In the end I put this down to a firmware fault with the AI606. Had this scheme worked then, as for the driver door, it would have been an extremely simple matter of just putting a slave vacuum actuator inside the driver door as well.
This post puts all VW Golfs at risk you show the alarm the possible cuts that a thief would love to see its all in the post for him these are to keep your car safe please pm them not broadcast them i fit alarms and its like showing how to do the magic trick to people that thought it was magic now your next door neighbour can disable your immobilisors easy Be carefull guys its your property Ian
i was thinking this after completing the install, but again it aint too hard to bypass an immob if you have half a brain - its down to the quality of the install and where you have hidden the immob wiring and control unit at the end of the day. perhaps move to payed member section?
i agree totally with mr toad regarding this we work hard to fit alarms correctly and securely and are certified installers "i know" someone thought" i am going to fit an alarm to my red mk1 golf and show and tell everyone what wire goes where and what colour they are" good move also you have ruined a perfectly good dash in a mk1 to put your ultrasonics in completely the wrong place you will have very poor interior coverage with them that low and firing up into the roof
It does not! The toads imob wires are balck and look very simular the the rest of the toad wiring and once the colour band has been moved make it very hard to identify them from the rest of the loom. All i have shown is what wires you could use, there are great many choices of wires that the toad cut be spliced into, ie the injector 12v, the fuel pump feed etc, If you install the Toad correctly and wrap the loom it would be very very hard for a theif to distinquce what goes where. There are a great many variations in the way to wire the toad up and i expect most people would do it differently to my guide, so this guide really only puts my car at risk!! - but then did i acutally wire it up the way demostrated? You can get any of this info from many places for free, the alarm paper work i have posted up is on the Net just have a search, and likewise the wiring diagrams too, the haynes has the wiring diagrams and Toads can be bought from the Net by anyone. If i was a theif, and i wanted to get around an immoboliser then i would have research all the types of systems and have a good knowledge base, the info for this i would get from the net for free anyway. So my guide would be pretty useless to them as they would already have the knowledge. As the OP my intent was to share very basic information and skills that are required to fit a Toad to a MK1. Some people think that knowing this basic info means they can charge a small fortune for applying it, this guide was ment to inspire confidance by showing how basic Toads are so that they then could DIY apply it. Thanks It was intentional that the sensors to point up, i feel the most likley method of entry into a mk1 is through smashing the front window and reaching it or pulling the front door back and out, the sensors as you say cover this area rather well. And i have another pair of sensors in the rear of the car that cover it quite well.
I believe that Martin is referring to the issue I was discussing further above, where the AI606 cannot be used to drive the MK2 central locking pump directly, as opposed to the usual method of having the AI606 driving a five-wire solenoid. Martin, there's no issue really. You can drive the central locking using a 5-wire solenoid. What I was gassing on about before is that the AI606 should be able to drive the central locking pump directly just fine, as long as the AI606 is set to provide a 4 second lock / unlock pulse. Electrically, it's a piece of piѕs. The actual problem is that the AI606 appears to have a firmware problem. The problem is that when the AI606 is programmed to deliver a four-second lock / unlock pulse, I discovered that the unit frequently gives a pulse that is much, much too short (0.5s or so). This means the pump is quite often not operated properly. And you're totally correct, a timed relay would indeed solve that problem. I know that one can just install a five-wire solenoid, but it would be so much less farting about to just connect the AI606 directly to the pump and then put a slave vacuum plunger into the driver door.
Trev, Due to my inquizative nature, i look for other ways around problems. I just wondered if anyone has tried this, if not i may give it ago. Thanks for the replay.
A top tip is to obviously when adding such security stuff always tape up alarm wiring black and cable tie into place together with the vehicles wiring, this makes bypassing very difficult. With regards to the siren the back up battery is useless if the siren is on show under the bonnet and is easily ripped out. Always mount the siren in a hidden location in the engine bay, under the scuttle tray is a good location and is very hard to access, so the siren will be safe from tampering. Nothing will frustrate a thief more than a loud siren which can't be stopped, it is true that on the siren sounding thieves tend to run but hiding the siren will pay off when a more pro thief has a go, the longer the siren sounds for & the more time spent by the thief trying to turn it off will lead to more attention and the higher risk of being caught! Desite the jazzy look of the toad's siren, it's always best for sirens to be black and be hidden!
What I was gassing on about before is that the AI606 should be able to drive the central locking pump directly just fine, as long as the AI606 is set to provide a 4 second lock / unlock pulse. Electrically, it's a piece of piѕs. The actual problem is that the AI606 appears to have a firmware problem. The problem is that when the AI606 is programmed to deliver a four-second lock / unlock pulse, I discovered that the unit frequently gives a pulse that is much, much too short (0.5s or so). This means the pump is quite often not operated properly. And you're totally correct, a timed relay would indeed solve that problem. I know that one can just install a five-wire solenoid, but it would be so much less farting about to just connect the AI606 directly to the pump and then put a slave vacuum plunger into the driver door.[/QUOTE] sorry but this is wrong it is only possible to lock the car using the pump you HAVE to fit a 2 wire motor in the drivers door its the ONLY way to get it to work
