Title edited to reflect findings... As the title says. Down visiting my folks this week and picked up a tower from a local scrappies which is currently sitting in an oily bag in me boot. It's going to need a new bearing and was wondering how the shift rod is removed.
Shift tower on the box? If so just undo the 13mm hex head nu on the top and pull the whole lot through. There's a thread on here about changing the bearing, it can be a right b'stard and you damage the housing easily if done wrong. Have a read and a muse.
Yea. Only thing holding it together is the bolt on the shifter weight. Get a TT short shifter whilst your at it.
Thanks guys... TBH I didn't give it a proper look over so I could see how it came apart. I do need to get a TT shift weight, 02J gate lever and 02J reverse light switch as even though there were two 02Js in the scrappies someone had pinched all the aforementioned bits Just need the shifter bits and a new bearing in the tower and I'm good to go. Anyone know the part number of the gate lever with the pin end as I can't tell in ETKA which one is which and the PN of the reverse switch connector?
What did you actually get with the tower? or are you upgrading to the later parts? Do you mean relay lever? look on the thread i started should all be in there.
All I managed to get was the tower and the shift rod... no reverse switch, shift weight or gate lever were on any of the 02J shift towers/boxes in the scrappy so will be buyng the TT shift weight and a pin fitment 02J gate lever after next payday... I'll have a look at your thread for the part numbers Russ. Didn't realise the shift rod simply pulled out the tower housing. Bearing in the tower doesn't look up to much TBH; it's no wonder they don't last long... Not looking forward to removing it TBH.
gate lever = Relay lever You need relay lever with PN suffix 'P' not F. With the TT shift weight you wont need to buy the extra Bowden cable catches as they come with them. Bearing is shi*ty! thats why its only about 3 Just very awkward to get it out.
Thanks for the PNs Russ. I can honestly say that after reading your posts and Marts comments on the subject I am not looking forward to removing the bearing. Probably go the same route as yourself - grind a few channels in the old race to reduce the interference fit pressure and perhaps curl the race in on itself prior to pushing out. I see on the newer cable change boxes (not sure if they are 02R or something else) the shift weight is a lower profile item with a hockey puck style weight which sits at around the same height in the same plane as the spline on the shift rod. Given the moment by this will exert far less leverage on the upper bearing has anyone actually tried fitting one of these to an 02J shifter tower? Not at home at the mo but I'll see if I can dig out a pic.
I'm sure a new bearing should last a while. There was no way i could have pressed that bearring out. The drifts i used with the press were deforming at the sides. I was worried i was going to break something. The dremel came to the rescue, and once the casing was relieved, i could press it out with a vice. I used a hydraulic press the put the new bearing in though.
I guess it will last I'll probably smother the bearing and fill the seal with some super tacky teflon grease I have for the MTB... **** is so sticky you dont even want to get it on your hands as it simply wont wash off Don't ask how I know. I don't have access to a press at the mo so it will be a Crystal Maze 'cobble some nonsense together effort' like my gearbox rebuild shenanigans.
I'm feeling rather smug with myself... One shift tower bearing removed with no potential to pop the centre out or hacking or damage to the tower whatsoever. Stunningly simple and will reveal all when I upload the photos. Hint: M10 washers+file
How to easily remove 02J shifter bearing without damage to housing Okay heres the spill on how to easily remove the centre bearing without risking popping the centre of the shifter housing out. First you need to remove the inner plastic cage that holds the bearings You'll need a couple of M10 washers - file the edges off so that when turned edge on they will slide through into the bearing housing. Spin them flat and tap them down in the bottom half of the bearing race as shown (Sorry bearing already removed): This would be like looking down through the top of the tower effectively looking from the underneath of the tower: This will give purchase to pull against. Sneaky eh? Next you need an M10 bolt and nut that will fit though the entire length of the shifter housing so that the bolt and nut stick out either end in addition to a spacer that will fit beteen the M10 washers and the nut sticking out the top of the shifter housing.. What do do now is get a suitable sized socket that the bearing will pull into (I think I may have used a 24 but cant be sure) and stick it on the end so that it's supported against the bearing housing. Stick your bolt though from the top with the spacer and pop the end of the bolt out the lower half, stick the socket on and a couple of washers between the socket and nut. You now have a 'puller' that you can use to wind the bearing race out into the socket. If it doesnt come wind up the tension just a little and gently heat (and I mean gently) the bearing housing to maybe 60 degrees and give the lower end of the bolt a gentle tap which should be enough to shock the bearing race into moving a little. It can then be wound out or the tension increased slightly and then gentyl tapped to move the bearing and release the tension.... Results in this: Basically no butchery required and if done right e.g. not tapping the wrong end of the bolt will mean very little potential for damage to the housing. A shorter bolt could be used negating the need for a spacer as long as the end inside the bearing race can be jammed or at least prevented from spininng so that the bearing can be wound out.
Nice one Al. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best. . Sometimes things need looking at in a different way. Good that you worked out how the washer would fit inside.
To be honest Russ it was pure luck that the idea came to me - I was footering around with a poster tube and the penny dropped. Had I not been @rsing around with it would have been Marts method that I would have resorted to.
