I have tried putting a long 3mm Allen key into the hole and feel the screw but the Allen key just spins tried a 4mm but that wouldn't sit in the hole on top of the screw! Is there a special tool needed or is mine just fubar? If it is are these still available anywhere?
It's a t handle one and it's about 6". It's deffinately long enough just hoping its not rounded!! If it is full of gunk how will I clean it? I need to adjust the idle mixture as the tickover is lumpy and out!
Has your allen key the ball-type end or the flat one? The screw recess is fairly shallow, and a flat-ended allen key will fit better. i.e. this: will grip better than this:
Squirt it out with carby cleaner. If there's enough room, we use cleaning gum (blue tack) to lift out the grit. you'd be hard pushed to round off a 3mm hex.
That's what I was thinking about the rounding off. It's too small and shouldn't be tight enough to round off! Ive got some carb cleaner so I'll try that first! Shame you can't see enough through the little hole to see what's going on! Could always take the airbox of the metering head and take a look!
Right I've had a look down the hole at the mixture screw and I can tell you that there is no 3mm hex head in there? To me it looks like it has been drilled slightly!! Wtf
the drilling you mention is prob just due to the tool slipping. the hex head is probably just full o cack! i had one i was sure was rounded, but after stripping the metering head down to replace it i found it was just packed tight with crud. after cleaning it out it was all good
Cheers rj. I'm going to have a look tonight if the rain holds off! I'm hoping it is just full of crud and not completely drilled out!!
Right I've had the metering head off the airbox and I can see the idle screw but not the top of it! I can see that 2 circlips on the out side of the metering head at each end of the pivot for the metering flap! So how do I get the flap and arm out to gain access to the screw? I've tried searching but haven't found anything! Does anyone know how? Rj??
its not easy! first you remove the 2 ciclips, then you need to remove the metering head disc from the air inlet. next remove the air flap rest stop. now you need to loosen the bolt holding the flap counterweight, then you can slide out the pivot pin. dont loose the covering discs, seals and the ball bearings/springs from either end! then you can remove the arm. check the grub screw, if its rounded out you'll need to replace it which is a fiddly job, or just get another metering head flap assembly. an 8v grub screw will fit a 16v arm and vice versa, mostly they are the same internally but the air intake hole on the 16v assembly is bigger edit: oh! and this is not the idle screw, it's the mixture screw!
Brilliant cheers rubjonny! Yeah I know it's for setting mixture at idle just need to set the Co as I've had an abf fitted and want the Rickover to be nice and smooth and not lumpy like it is. I've checked for vacuum leaks and have sorted any so my last port of call is the idle mixture! Ill let you know the progress as and when! Do you reckon it may be a good idea to document the strip and rebuild?
if you can be bothered, hardly anyone goes this far though only had a couple threads on it so far. would be easier for me to link to a thread than explain it though in future
When I get round to doing it I shall take as many pics as I can! Did you disconnect the fuel lines as I don't really want to go down that route!
you could take the fuel metering head off the air flap and leave it in the bay then take the air part off and repair on the bench. only 3 screws hold it on, though you might have to crack loose some of the fuel injector lines on the top so you can move them out of the way. you'll loose a small spray of fuel but no big deal
I had to strip my metering head down years ago due to the same problem, you need to be able to turn the adjuster screw without putting pressure on it to set the mixture correctly.