1st off thats the vacuum reservoir not carbon canister, can be deleted or relocated, as can most of the pipework and valves under inlet manifold however i would leave iirc n249 and n112 valve physically plugged in instead of using resistors, if you go onto ukmkis or seatcupra.net there are some great write ups of deleting all this and adding catch tank. The 6th picture is the vvt solenoid, you can replace this i beleive with an agu version but if you running oem management then i would keep it, looks like it just is the cooler damaged unless the oil filter housing is as well but cant tell, and yes last pic is the combi valve that needs to be removed and blanked off with small plate, forge sell them but i made my own pretty easy to do
good thread to show what you can get rid of http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete belt info http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...wer-steering-which-alternator-belt&highlight=
New bits are all here So as previously mentioned i am going to do the IMMO delete and also a lot of the Emissions will be deleted too all the bits i need have arrived, i was waiting for the last lead and it turned up on friday Now all i have to do is actually get it done ... The lead on the left will save me from having to build a bench rig out of an old ECU loom, just need to add a 12v DC supply and connect ECU, Put it into boot mode and ...... keep learning to make sure i get it right
I went to get the extra bits from the old car today I now have a boot full of parts that include Exhaust down pipe (a bit damaged but i may be able to use it ) ECU Engine bay Harness complete Battery harness and fusebox from engine bay DBW pedal and plug Brake light switch and plug Clutch switch and plug MAF SMIC (wont use it but hey it was there) Engine covers STD Turbo pipes (wont use but they were there) Airbox (want to try and fit it for OEM+) Expansion tank Have some pictures to looky at
You have lost me ? Links to what ? The pics show fine for me and I host my own pics so all should be good
How bizarre, i dont use IE myself , Firefox for me Yes i'm determined to do it (and ask loads of stupid questions on the way too )
Thanks CD Things have stalled a bit on the IMMO off side, i cant get into BOOT mode, not sure why as everything seems to be right The Harness i bought cheap was useless (almost) i have since made up a nice version after doing some research here is how things look at the moment
coincidence or what! i got the grey one yes, maybe there need's to be two turbo's on the block now for some common rivalry haha. You didn't own the black 205 gti turbo a while back?
No the 205 was owned by our ex panel apprentice , it was a real bodge job . He sold it and when the guy was driving it home it threw a driveshaft , bloody fast tho So yours is is 20vt ?
Oh right well the 205 didnt sound like it ran right sometimes but sounded and looked quick. Was it mi6 turbo? but mines just 8v same as you at present :-( . But just got my tax rebate for tools so weighing up what cars cost effective to buy for the engine. But 20vt would be nice! Have to have a nose at your's when you've got it on the block.
After attempting to IMMO OFF my ARY ECU and failing (i think the ECU is duff ) i have got another ECU But its from another 1.8t car, i think its an AGU ECU, anyway i dont have a loom for this so i was thinking of either buying another loom to fit this or another ARY ECU But would i need both parts IE the engine loom and Car plug too, i already have every plug from the TT ARY car and looms too the ARY ECU is 150 ish on Ebay ... nooooo
Early AGU and Later engine codes differ in many different ways. The wiring loom on the AGU is totally different compared to the ARY. The maf, knocks sensors ect will all need changing, as the AGU uses square plugs, and the later ARY uses rounded ones. So you would most likely need the two separate looms to use with AGU ecu.
the easier way would to be to look at what revision the ECU is. should say on the sticker. AGU is ME7 Most other things AUM/AUQ etc are ME7.5 When i fried my ECU i got a replacement for 20 and paid to have it deimmob, again but least i knew it had been done and would work. How can you tell with your kit that it doesn't work?
Cheaper ARY ecu's here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-M...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33822abd6f Different part numbers to yours,the ones in the ebay add are wideband (read good) Yours looks like it could be too,its the right year,k03s,VVT can't work out the difference between it and the AUM/AUQ tbh. Can you check your lambda wires,if one of them has 5 wires,then its deffo wideband,and its possible the above ecu's will work with your loom as they are cheaper.
