inlet manifold

For a 16vt abf you need a 20v 1.8t inlet manifold?
If it is fed from the right?
Also which throttle body can be used? Would a BAM throttle body be suitable?
Also a fuel rail from an AUM suitable?

 

Can be right or left depending on your chosen boost run.

ABF, 2E. Dont think Bam would as it is DBW

Yes

 

You can use S2, GOLF 4 or S3/TT inlet.
It would come down to boost run, availabity, cost and preference.

The S2 unit would require the removal of one the runners, a 1.8T or fabricated fuel rail and the option of using the OE throttle with added TPS and IAT or welding a flange to suit your choice of throttle.

Golf 4 or TT/S3 units generally come complete with all of the above except you need to graft a 16v K jet lower manifold to a specific point on the 1.8t runners, port the inside at the weld, add digifant inserts inplace of the brass CIS inserts and replace throttle with a cable type if not already fitted (e.g AGU engine). Direct fit would be a 2E TB else you can use the larger ABF unit with a bit of slotting to certain holes.

 

What I idealistically want from the setup, is something that can have an everyday use. But i don't want to go too silly with the power. Ideally I want to aim for 230-250bhp. How much psi would this be?

I'm thinking of the golf 4 unit and grafting onto the kr manifold as I've got access to a workshop and i would like to learn about it rather than just bolting stuff on.

 

"psi" is not directly correlated to "bhp".
230 to 250bhp is not related to drive feel either. I have a vague understanding of where you may be coming though.

Integrating a set up like this is as reliable as your welding.

Here are a few examples.
N7NDO's 16vK with S2 plenum 1.8T fuel rail


steve r ABF Track car. Short MK4 1.8T plenum and custom rail and FPR


Toyotec 16vT "ABF thats huffed" TT plenum and rail.

 

Eddy

I'll be calling you soon for your help again, i have just started my 16vt project again


Nas

 

is steve r running NA on that short manifold?

 

Yes.

 

Obviously I want to try and do this conversion cheap so I want to keep the stock internals for as long as I can. Keeping the boost low around 7-8 psi mark.

 

keeping the stock internals and only running 7-8 psi, isn`t really what you should do. greed will get the better of all of us and regardless of what we`re told to do we will run more and more on the limits.
finding the correct manifold, injectors and fuel rail, ecu and all the other fabricated bits required is going to be well over 500 plus. a turbo conversion on a 16valve it`s best not to skimp, because the need 98 octane fuel to run well anyway.
however...
audi s2 pistons and ecu make things simpler, retain the stock 16valve manifold, fuel rail throttle,and simply fit higher flow injectors.
check out ebay.de
simply got to do the internal work to avoid detonation and death of an engine,

 

Keeping boost around the 7-8psi mark on which turbo?
Depending what turbo you refer to e.g T34 cossie unit, 7-8 psi, from 3000rpm or so is nothing on this engine.

 

Very true about when the speed bug bites and cost if you unable do it yourself or have the resources and research capability. These things are not really a bolt on.

Detonation would occur on any engine, if your ECU is not calibrated to suit the new cylinder pressures experienced as a result of an increase in air and fuel requirements.

 

forgot to add in what one i was going to use. I was thinking either a garrett gt28rs or t3

 

I could be wrong but isn't the T3 externally gated? (Or is there a choice?). If so then to buy one of those and a gate would be very similar in price to an internally gated DBB. Journal bearings tend to hit hard and fast that can sometimes result in excess wheelspin/torque steer whereas the DBB is smoother, DBB generally best in this country with our traffic.

If you have access to a workshop then I would personally fab my own sheet metal mani based on what figures my set-up would achieve (peak torque and pulse timing the air). If your just MIGin then it'd prob have to be a mild steel mani if your a newby. They are good at repelling heat soak but struggle to release the heat if heat soak occurs. I'd just put a thermal dispersant on the plenum to help.

Fabbing your own sheet metal mani isn't expensive, just takes a while (about 100-150 in mild). Get some sheets, something to cut them with and go crazy. If you want some idea's on how to approach the design/set-up PM me as that's all i'm doing at the mo.

If you've got a w-shop then you'll be doing your own exhaust mani I suppose? Do a nice equal length or collector placing the turbo so that the intake isn't going to interfere with the brake servo's and use a nice thick gauge steam pipe.

 

GT28RS should be fine. T3- there are many versions in this frame. Not all suited to what you may want.

 

20v inlet welded to a 16 flange, not sure where i got this pic from.

Looks like this has kept the 20v injector holes and fuel rail mounts. Mine uses more of the KR flange and keeps the injector holes (see pics below)

 

ABF TB with slotted holes still doesn't quite line up corretly so requires a bit of work.





Manifolds from early cable operated cars will have a bracket for the throttle cable



Later DBW manifolds don't so will need a bracket to be made. I plan to make something similar to this for mine to replace the sheet alu currently in use.



Some also have holes for the Inlet Air Temp sensor, behind the TB in the above pics. Mine didn't so the sensor is in the air filter

 

steve, what was the difference over the long 16v manifold?

 

I would of thought it to run not as good as the original manifold

before & after RR graphs would be good

 

i chose to ditch the 16v manifold due to the long boost runs, and the way the turbo was sitting, clearence issue would off got in the way if using the 16v manifold,