Inside front tyre wear..?

Discussion in 'Wheels and Tyres' started by Oakgreeny1990, Jun 7, 2013.

  1. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    Nov 12, 2004
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    Location:
    50? 20` 47 N - 06? 57` 57 E
    Finding someone who knows what they are doing and doesn't charge the Earth is the biggest battle, I've found. There's a couple if alignment "specialists" near me, but they want 90+.

    I know they'll do a good job, since its the only thing they do and have the high end gear to get it perfect, but they're charging so much because they need to pay off that high end gear...

    8 on a ball of string and a steel rule, half a day f*nnying around, and I'm set for life! lol
     
  2. Oakgreeny1990 Forum Member

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    Jan 22, 2013
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    'Apparently' quikfit will do basic camber settings for 38...plus more money for the rest ;) ...Ha, we'll see when i go in to get a full quote.
    Also Stumc, I've just posted a video up in the 'Top Mount issue' thread....check it if you get a min. I'll buy you a beer...:thumbup: lol
     
  3. Collie Forum Junkie

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    Nov 20, 2003
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    Location:
    Adlington Lancs
    Too much toe out causes wear to the inner edges of front tyres. also lots of negative camber.

    lowering your car WILL change the camber


    How many miles have you done on the front tyres?
    . are they good tyres?
     
  4. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    Oct 27, 2003
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    Kazakhstan
    I set mine up for 1.5 degrees negative camber and zero toe, tyre wear is fine with those settings.

    Did the GTO with strings and an angle finder/ spirit level. Set camber first afted rideheight adjustment then set the toe (0 is best but never have any toe out..).
     
  5. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2006
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    I use the string method and it is VERY accurate if you take your time.

    If height access is an issue, try and drive the car onto something to raise it up equally. For example, 4 breeze blocks laid on their side will lift the car 4", a piece of 2"x2" timber as a `ramp` to drive up and you`re sorted. That`ll give plenty room to reach under and adjust the tie-rods. I often adjust mine from the side, it`s easier than using the pit ;)

    When I first did mine using the string method, I wasn`t convinced it was accurate, so I took it to a local 4wheel alignment place for a check, they put it on the machine and the guy said "this is spot on, I don`t need to adjust anything". Since then I`ve always used the string method. It`s not just a DIY thing either, there are plenty race teams who use a similar method, even though they use easy-fix clamps etc.
     
  6. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Location:
    Bristol
    Tis true! Spent half a day down there last week sorting mine out. Great guys at my local one.
    Put it up on the ramp and started adjusting it. I was aiming for 0 Toe, -2.5 camber. All set up and then went to lock off the tie rod nut and it just span. The whole thread on the tie rod where the nut was had stripped! 50 later as GSF I got the car back to the workshop and spent the day changing both (Might as well change both)
    He didn't charge me for the first setting up. Took it back 2 days later and set it all up...Under my watch... and left with an awesome setup for 38:thumbup:
     

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