Can anyone direct me to a link for this conversion ? pretty much have the ce 1 sorted but need to get set up with few details to get it running on the fuel side of things. I have come across some wire colour variation from the Haynes manual to my car and all I seem to find on the net is ABF and 1.8t info A few question for those that have the time; 1 - Do i need to run a dijifant fuel pump relay ?,the reason I asked is I believe the ecu gets switched power from the diji relay? 2 - A thread from rubjonny mentioned a extra relay to power the ecu but it wasn't specific to my situation? I think 3 - There are 2 plugs in the lh scuttle near the heater inlet (from the digi ecu loom) ,one white ,one black,I have the fuel pump running ok with the white one plugged in,the black has a red/white wire which I believe is power (permantly on) to battery positive,the other red/yellow wire is a mystery @ this stage ? 4 - How do most people deal with the k-jet gauge temp sensor ?,as I have a digi head with plastic sensor holder there is no earth for the original single wire sensor.Have machined a metal plug with thread for sensor which I plan the earth off the head,will that work? Cheers in advance.
Have spark and the car will run on a can of either (easy start),pump is running but it won't start on petrol,any ideas from anyone please????? I'am running ABF Passat pump,should I be powering that with a diji 2 relay? Have checked injector bus for continuaty to the ecu but don't know if it powers up on cranking or key on aux or not,please help as I'am running out of tablets and beer.
so you are trying to fit a mk2 digifant 8v lump to a k-jet mk2? did you change the whole engine loom for a std mk2 digi loom as well as just fitting the ecu part? if so, you need a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay in slot 2 (mk2 16v, digifant and all petrol mk3/passat/corrado plus loads of outer VW/SEAT), and a 53 relay in slot 1 for the ecu. the 2 plugs in the scuttle are where the digifant ecu loom plugs into the main ecu bay loom. red/white is fuel pump power, red/yellow is fuel pump relay earth and black/yellow is ecu relay power (also powers the fuel rail)
Just the ecu loom,rest still ce1,engine is 89 digi RV head on 92 audi 3a block. Have these relays in my mk3 parts car I can steal,is it likely because the car is 87 model the wiring for the slot 1 relay will be there to make that work Scuttle plugs,have white plug connected to original male end from ce1 loom,it had 3 wires @ this end 2 of which go to starter not sure about where the 3rd on goes?. Would I be correct in saying the injectors aren't powering up? I have fuel pressure @ the rail and pump runs on cranking and with a jumper fitted between 87 and 30 Thank you for your answer .
Fitted #53 relay to position 1 on fuse board and thats powering up with key on,fuel pump relay from 92 mk3 fitted (#80) but noticed the pin configiration differant? Sorry to put you wrong I don't have fuel @ the rail (therein lies my starting problem),I'am also confused over the pump wire colours on the black scuttle plug? i double checked them on my son's 89 and the red yellow wire doesn't test to earth?
yes the 80 relay is triggered by the ecu, via the red/yel wire (it only earths it when it wants the pump to run, its not permanent earth!) the old relay was triggered by the coil rev counter pulse, hence different pinout. the old k-jet relay probably had a rev-limiter in it, hence why i suggest to swap it, also becaswue you may as well switch to it as its newer, simpler and cheaper you can test the relay and pump wiring by earthing the red/yel wire, that should trigger the relay if the ignition is on. if you test the yellow/black wire this should be live with the ignition on, mk2s usually also send power to the fuel rail from here as well. some use a proper fuel pump power feed but from what i can gather that is only on post-89 cars so 90spec mk2 and later cabrio/scirocco. these also have a single 5 pin plug to join the looms rather than a pair of 2 pin plugs so easy to tell.
That explains a lot ,many thanks ,foolishly assumed the wire (red/yellow) was permanent earth that would also explain why I toasted my ECU on the fuel side,would my upgraded ecu chip be toast also?. So I need to take the red/white and red/yellow wires thru the bulkhead to plug "D" on the back of the fusebox to connect to the relay pins #86 and #85? Had wired a stand alone relay for ecu power but took your advise and tryed # 53 into fusebox socket 1 it tested fine as mentioned. Appreciate your time,cheers.
earthing that wire wouldnt have damaged the ecu, if your ecu fried its more likely down to a poor gearbox earth. if its poor as soon as you try to crank it the starter tries to earth thru your ecu, and Bad Things happen! this is a common issue as the original mk2 earth was a poor design, for later mk2s vw moved the earth to a stud on the end of the rear engine -> gearbox mounting bolt, you can also see this design on mk3 golfs. you shouldnt need to run any wires if you have the full engine loom from the donor right back to the fusebox? the red/yel should plug right into a 2 pin plug in the scuttle, same as the ecu/injector live yellow/black its worth making sure the pins are clean, they arnt sealed so suffer from corrosion.
Have the upgraded earth setup you speak of so I will fit that thanks,found the old ecu had water damage at some stage water had migrated inside thru the pins?? No John I don't have that wiring back to the fusebox,there was no female end for the black plug thats why I mentioned it,also I have no key on power @ the black/yellow relay/injector bus wire for that reason (i think). Have cleaned or replaced earth connections and teminals .
aha i assumed you had the whole loom back to the fusebox! right well basically there is a plug 'R' on the back of the fusebox for the ECU relay, if you dont have that then you'll have to get ecu power elsewhere. its a green 2 pin plug hanging from the main D plug which has the ign live trigger for the relay, and the output feed for the ecu. worst case you can put a relay above the fusebox instead like you had before. it may e this plug is on your loom if it had the one of more advanced k-jet systems with lambda control, im not 100% on how those are wired however. if you have a red/white wire on ecu loom this is a fuel pump live feed, probably for the lambda probe heater which runs to a red/white spade hanging from E/14 (we dont have lambdas!) red/yellow is the pump relay earth trigger to D/13, you can instead use a k-jet pump relay if you like. there is a red/green which is starter power to a plug hanging from C/18, and finally the main ecu/rail live black/yellow to R/2. if you look in my sig for jetta89.pdf, that had a full CE1 wiring diagram and includes digifant stuff. look for the stuff that is labled 'ex calif' as the california ecus are slightly different. also check this bentley diagram though note it has the 5 pin plug i mentioned earlier like a 90spec ecu (t5a): its been shrunk a bit so you'll have to right click 'save as' to see it full size!
Wow thanks ,will wire my stand alone relay to run from pin #87 to black/yellow wire on white scuttle plug. Yes the old GX motor had a one wire lambda and a basic control unit. The black scuttle plug; Can I wire red/white to coil positive? Can I wire red/yellow to small fuel pump relay #85. So with black yellow powered up I should have the injectors and ICV powered thru the ecu right? Again thanks for your input
the red/white wire if its for the lambda probe needs a fuel pump feed, I'm sure there must be one in your old loom somewhere as k-jet uses it for a few things like the WUR, AAV and other stuff. coil live i think might be a bit too much drain on the coil feed? you could probably run it off the ecu relay mind but i would definitly put a fuse on it. or if you are running wires to the fusebox anyway look on plug E pin 14 there will be a spade on there you can use. red/yellow needs to go to D/13, which is the earth pin 85 of the factory digifant fuel relay as you say i dont know if you'll have a pin there though as the old k-jet relay would have used a rev counter signal i expect. as i say you can still use the k-jet relay unless it had a lower rev limiter than the digi ecu does? if you arnt sure you can get k-jet relays without rev limiters they were fitted to models which had the limiter in the dizzy instead. once you get the black/yellow wire up the isv should buzz and the injector rail should see 12v to the +ve pin, the -ve is a pulsed signal from the ecu so you'll have to test from rail +ve to a -ve somewhere such as battery or engine block
Yes have found WUR live wire (key on ) so thats been extended and rerouted over the top of the engine to the red/white wire ,have found a white 2 pin plug which is off the main diji ecu loom to battery negitive,it doesn't test back to to the battery earth but tests back to pin #3 on the ecu plug ,have red/yellow in there because it seem right ,could you comment? The rest is getting there ,the only thing is the ISV may be a problem as it appears to need a relay which I know won't be in the ce1 loom fuseboard?yet to test that however. When you are talking about your cars (as in uk build ) are you saying the early ones never had lambda's,or all k-jet and digi's? My motor has a 3 wire sensor fitted,so I better check that or will it all run off my diji computer anyway? I know it needs a heater power feed so would that wire need to be live with the key on? Thanks John
have a look at golf91.pdf in my sig, this has an ecu layout for the digifant (page 4, digifant control unit ex calif) which should be close to yours, pin 2 off the ecu is for the lambda according to that? if so that'll be the lambda signal, the other pin i assume will be an earth but it doesnt show the plug on that diagram so i cant be sure the isv is powered direct from the ecu so dont worry about that yeah our uk cars never got lambda probes at all, neither the k-jet or digi. only very rare we saw them as they are fitted to cars with a CAT, which wasnt law here at the time so you would only see them on imports, or from people who were a bit strange in the head and asked vw to fit one at vast expense most lambdas are the same anyway, mostly the differences are down to the wire length or heater spec, if it worked with the k-jet then chances are it'll be fine with the digifant. lambda heater is usually fuel pump live, but ignition live will work
The stand alone relay worked a treat,found up underneath the engine bay was a white 2 prong plug with only one wire it was branched off the ecu earthing connections to the battery,traced my son's 89 and it came together hooked up red/yellow to that. Picked up power for the red/white wire off the wur feed as mentioned. Can't use D13 as it was dead (no connector) but knew I was on the right track,had an early fuel supply problem ,got that sorted and engine started very quickly. All was good but oil pressure had gone,removed lower oil filter housing sensor (white one),cranked over and made a hell of a mess,refitted sensor and all good. The only issue I have is a faulty blue temp sensor causing a overich fuel situation,with the plug off it runs fine,yet to fully bleed the coolant so maybe it will come right???? Can't thank you enough for your help if I was in your country/area I would shout you a beer or 3,best thing is come here for a holiday and stay @ my country property,its a slice of heaven. I have a strong running engine,very quick to rev and a nice deep tone @ the exhaust,to say I'am happy is a total understatement,cheers Dean.
awesome the blue sender isnt expensive at vw (here anyway) but as you say it could be down to an airlock around the blue sender area. would love to come down its on my list of things to do before i die thats for sure!
Truely I mean it our climate is amazing,VW parts are really expensive here for what they are,I don't buy in NZ anymore as the mark-ups are around 3 to 4times what they are oversea's Many good later VW's are scrapped because of parts cost. You are correct (again) massive airlock in heater matrix had to add lots of water,full test drive tommorrow as its late and I'am buggered,cheers mate.
Had a test drive this morning Took car for a test drive today after tidying up some bits and pieces, pretty quick considering blue temp sensor not working and disconnected,busted a cv so its back in the shed again ,wasnt to worried as I want to rebush rh side "A" anyway ,have done the left side a month or so back. Motor rev's very quickly unlike any 1.8,very pleased with the condition of the 3a block I fitted (only 90,000kms) seems tight and has lots of compression ,the old GX starter is working hard. Next will be to fit mk3 brakes new disks and rear beam ,then fit my new Koni "blues" and off for a wheel alignment,will hold out for a while as enough spanner turning for a bit.
Update ,car has done 5000kms and still running great,time for paint and panel ,no rust anywhere so theres a good start,thanks to rubjonny 100%, to others that got to read the post and gain some info hope it was some use. I can't keep away from conversions??? doing an auto to manual on one of our mk3's,reckon its part of the vw virus lol
