KO4 Actuator length - low boost and surging! FIXED! see page 3

the throttle thing will be how the loom is made as the ady and agu have different plus to the others

 

Cheers Ben I will have a look tomorrow.

I need to double check the part number for the throtle as the number that I could see on it tonight made no sense on etka... the AGG / ADY part number is 037 133 064.

I suspect it maybe the N75...I have ordered new J suffex one which will be here tueday, but my only concern is that according to the boost gauge - which seems accurate when pressure checked with a bike pump which also has a gauge on it - when on low boost mode - ie N75 open straight to the waste gate, I am now only getting 3-4psi of boost.

I have changed alot of the vac pipes lately and re-routed some of them, I think they are all correct but there does seem to be a odd bit where 2 pipes join but dont if you see what I mean?? I will post a pic tomorrow of my pipe routing incase somethings gone wrong on them and I am some how diverting boost back to the TIP or something odd like that (I dont think so as Icopied what was on there before. but thats not to say that was wrong already.

(some days I think it would have been easier o build my own 20vt rather than buy a ready done car where I just needed to sort the interior for trackdays etc )

 

right I have just taken the throttle off to double check the part number I found last night... the only numbers on the unit are on the black cover and they are:

408 237 /111/ 002 then bellow that 5 13 97 and thats it!!! it also has 3 takes offs fitted... 1 at the top connects back into the vac system for the servo etc, and the bottom 2 are just connected together but they dont seem to lead back into the main throttle (ie theres no hole that leads to them) so I have no idea what they are for?)

the part number according to this shop on ebay means its the correct thottle as its the vdo number

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Golf-Passa...400111187179?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item5d287c34eb

so this brings me back to either the N75... but would that explaine the very low boost with the N75 valve turned off, ie in its default "open" position?

edit - I have been playing with the N75 valve using a bike pump, and a screw driver. the outcome was the valve had been adjusted so in the closed position all boost was diverted to the actuator and non bleed off to the tip. I have wound it back a smidge so some is bled off to the tip as this should raise the boost a little in the closed position, and when on full boost mode it should also raise the boost then as will bleed more off.... so in theory if I set it up to run 1.5bar on full boost mode it should be good in closed mode too...I will report back when I have been out and adjusted it

 

been out for a drive with the N75 adjusted, with it in the close position allowing about 95% of the air to the actuator and 5% to the tip, and it was maybe a smidge more that was it.

then I flicked the button to turn on the N75 valve and it made nooooooo differance whats so ever!!!! very odd! I then tried to adjust it again and managed to screw it down too hard and popped the end off.... but luckly I have a spare one I found in a box of random bits I got when I brought the car so I will try that later

 

no meaing to offend but is the N75 plumed in the right way round with the hoses goin to the right places?

N75 valve should be verticle with the electrical plug at the top an pointing to engine

bottom pipe goes to the turbo outlet pipe

N75 outlet that points to bulkhead should be connected to the actuator

other N75 outlet should be in the intake pipe

just a thought...

 

yep I too was curious as to the way it was plumped so spent some time blowing down the ports etc

it is plumbed in the way you said, with it turned off it appears to send all the air to the actuator so that would be why I only get 0.25 bar of boost,

with the ingition on (but the engine not running) and the throttle on full it again makes no differance, that I can tell.... which is a bit odd as the voltage does change, so I can only assume that it needs to see pressure on other sensors to really start working.

i will try this new valve tonight, and then I will try with the J valve thats coming tomorrow just in case... then after that I am giving up and going to see Ben as i am really starting to get pigged off with this now

 

with the engine running the valve should be making a clicking noise as it operates when the engine's being revved or drivern underload...

 

reving on the drive doesnt seem to do anything but I have not been able to check it underload as I am in the car driving lol.

like I said before when you bridge the 2 terminals with a volt meter the values do change and it must be doing something as with it turned on I get more boost than with it off,

I am tempted to also reset the linkage to what I have on the other k04, but I would really lick some one else to meausure theres that they know is the stock length as then I will know for sure thats the factory setting

 

clamp the actuator hose and test the wastegate see if it overboosts my guess is that if it does the ecu will have an overboost protection to stop it imploding if your worried which could also be your problem if the ecu has overboost protection it may kick in to early or be reading wrong

 

I will try that as well then Ben, worse comes to the worse I am off to Swindon on Sat to have it all checked out

 

i reckon when you clamp the hose you will have full boost which would then point to either the n75 not working or maybe something with the ecu

 

I have no confused my self even more! N75 valve numer 2 (the one I found in a box so not sure if its any good or not)

boost is now lower and its still popping if I floor it (if I raise the boost over a few second it seems ok.. just a bit flat)

I have hooked up the lap top and checked things on the drive, and theres a shift between the ecu pressure and the gauge pressure....with the engine off the ecu one says -0.045 bar for manifold pressure. and when runnit at idle the gauge says -0.35 bar to -0.4 and the ecu says -0.645. (turned off, left for a min and now the ecu says -0.51 and climbing back to -0.6+.. boost gauge still says -0.35)

Im leaning more to a buggered sensor, poss the boost one... but with not knowing exactly what I am looking at or doing I think I will just swap the N75 tomorow for my nice new shiney one and then pay Ben a visit, as I could fanny about all month changing anything and everything etc.

 

you running a map sensor if so check the vac line is on nice and snug

really starting to sound like a vac leak

 

the idle is a tiny bit high at 990-1040 when hot...I have already fixed a split pipe a while ago which reduced the idle idle when hot from 1100-1200rpm.

all vac / boost take off for gauges etc have been zip tied nice and tight and the pipe used is a good quality thick silicon pipe that was new a week ago when I changed all the big boost hoses too. the pipe onto the MAP sensor has been zip tied both ends (its wasnt before I changed all the piping)

it runs a map sensor which isnt actually bolted down... the last owner left it swinging in the breeze and I have sorted of wedged it in a gab bellow the fuel rail and block, but I am now wodering if the viabrations have up set it..

I am also unsure if the vac lines for the servo etc is correct... so heres a diagram of what I have.



and heres a few pap pics of some bits:


Throttle take off see both boost and vac,

That connects via the back tube at the top of the pic with the brach off it and the 1 way valve


The take off from the throttle then carries on to this port on the side of the 1 way valve (the big loop of 10mm silicon will be going soon and replaced by the correct oem U bend as the on that was on there was showing signs of age so was removed just in case



boost gauge and dump valve take offs

N75 Valve

 

My car is doing the same Karl my mate is borrowing it at the moment and you told him to look at this thread mate, please post up your findings up mate when you have sussed it !!!!!!!!!

Cheers

Adam

 

when I work it out I will let you know, hopefully off to see Ben at Qpeng on Sat if the new N75 valve doesnt fix anything. as after that I am giving up lol

 

Cool cheers Karl mate, my car runs fine if you don't flaw in fact i guess i never really noticed as unlike my mate i obviously drive it correctly !!!!!!!!!

 

mines ok unless you have it full throttle in high boost mode... but I notice it from doing the 1/4 mile sprints etc, if I used it everyday I prob not have noticed as much

 

that place is just down the road from me haha...

could possibly be the map sensor maybe?

does it do it on both maps or have you just got the one map?...

 

when my n75 went wrong i could hit target boost in 1st (7psi) and 2nd map( 15psi) but 3rd map(24psi) it just bled off anything above 15psi.

(running emerald 3 stage map controller.)

when i put bosch super 4's in my car suffered real bad misfires on full throttle so now changed back to single electrode. just a thought.