OK, i have just followed GVK's set up guide, i had a few problems: Engine up to temps! 1) - With red lead and breather (blocked) disconnected I could not get the revs to 950 + 50, the best it would go was 840, any more and the idle screw would have fallen out! 2) - Every time i went to insert my 3mm allen key to adjust the Co, as soon as the allen key was in, the car would cut out, i had not even turned it! Any ideas guyz?
YOu maybe being to rough with the allen key. What you may find is that your CO is so far out that the idle screw has been turned all the way in 1 direction to try and compensate it.
Yeah that does suggest my symptoms, it is the CO screw on a spring or something? or is it just like the idle screw? as if it's like the idle screw it maybe that the CO screww is all the way out of the thread and when i put the allen key on it it pushes it down and blocks the hole? Also can you see the CO screw feom under the metering head, could it have broken or something? Thanks
Phew, thought i had a buggered one Still can't get those revs to where they should be with the red lead disconnected! Re-connect it and it's fine???? apart from the start up - Electrical connection on WUR connected - turn key, revs go to 1000rpm, then die to around 400, leave it for 30 secs and they rise, blip accelerator they die etc until engine is fully warm! Electrical connection on WUR dis-connected - turn key, revs go to 1000rpm, then die to around 400, leave it for 30 secs and they rise, blip accelerator all is fine! Anyone know what's wrong?
Yep! but i can't get the idle right before i set the CO, as per your instructions what's the best option?
Most probably an air leak, check all the vacumn hoses,especially the small ones under the main air pipe from met head > throttle body, they perish really easily. idlelly (lol) you want to set the CO before the idle
I'll have another go - if there are no leaks and i still can't get it, could it be the ecu? does this not control all of this? Also i was told that a long time ago, somone on here did an engine process for the KR 16V engne! you know what each part did in relation to another, i.e WUR - metering head, isv - over run etc. anyone know where it is (search does not work) if i had this list, i could easily work through each part and fine problems more easily! Thanks
ok, got her booked into a friends place this afternoon! now should the red lead be disconnected and the breather hole blocked? when setting the C0,or is it not needed because he is using the emissions machine this? Cheers
Anyway, my C0 was set at 0.15 (very lean) but best was at around 0.80 and it runs very nice now! But i have been told from the experts here that it should be set to 2.0% - I don't get this! Do different engines need different amount of mixture? Edited by: gti_kev
Can anyone confirm, please? As i mentioned my C0 was set at 0.15% - so the car was running very lean - got it set at 0.80% and the car is purring and everything seems to be working fully! I know from the experts here, that the C0 should be set to 2.0% - but my car seems to run brilliantly at 0.80% - Does anyone know why this is? Also if i am correct, the k-jet delivers a constant flow of petrol through the injectors all of the time, and it's the WUR which sets the pressure of the flow. Then the mixture screw (C0) - sets the amount of air to be mixed with the petrol - is this correct? Edited by: gti_kev
The CO only really affects the fueling at small throttle openings and at idle. I always set valvers up with 2.0% CO @ 1000rpm with the red lead disconnected, then re-set the idle speed - they run best at that.
Thanks Smithy What exact effect does the red lead have? and when you say re-set the idle, do you mean just adjust the idle screw when the red lead has been re-connected?
I have just got me a gunston C0 anyliser off egay Before i go ahead and set the C0 properally, i really want to know What exact effect does the red lead have? and also i have been told to disconnect the breather and block the air box hole? what significance does this have? and finally when you say re-set the idle, do you mean just adjust the idle screw when the red lead has been re-connected? Thanks Edited by: gti_kev
The red lead takes the ISV out of circuit as far as im aware. You need to disconnect it when setting the CO so the ISV doesnt interfere with the result. I think the way you are meant to set the idle is to set it to 1000rpm on the idle screw with the red lead disconnected and then re-connect the red lead. Should sit around 900rpm. Generally, the ISV will drop the revs around 100rpm once the red lead is reconnected. Not too sure about the gunston CO meters - but i've heard they arent very accurate. You'd be best getting it setup on a proper MOT gas analyser in a garage.
I see, thanks Do you disconnect the breather and block up the airbox hole? I know what it is set at at the moment from the MOT gas analyser, if i get the same result first off with the gunston, then i know it accurate if not i can gestimate it untill i am happy, then get it test again at the MOT garge! it did not cost much, so worth a go Edited by: gti_kev
The Gunson testers are accurate as long as you give them long enough (like 20 minutes) to acclimatise in free air, and don't move them around once they're set. Just don't do what I constantly do, which is to forget it's there, reverse back to take the car out, and run them over.....
