better for you then arnau,i know you dont like doing some test with fuel because of where you have to do it so much safer this way,and obviously with coil disconnected
Hi guys/girls! I replaced the fuel filter today. I thought it would be a good idea to keep the fuel: -tank-to-filter -filter-to-metering head in two sepparate bottles... the tank-to-metering head fuel, came out in a good color; maybe a lil bit dirty, but that might be psychological LoL the tank-to-filter fuel.... came out... well, just let's see the pictures of when I threw it into the WC... yes, it's completely black!!! Have to say that the fuel filter was replaced 6.000miles ago..... the car is still running bad. I think I'll flush the tank-to-filter fuel in a couple of days...
I found a vid about compression test that may be useful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4 I'll be doing it tomorrow if I can
Hey, I flushed the fuel yesterday again, after a ~100miles drive, and it came out pretty clean. It was a little dark but really little only, so this is OK now. I'll do a compression test today if possible and post the results.
I tried to do the compression test today. The gauge looks to be dead (even being new!) as it doesn't read ANYTHING when cranking the engine. I even blew air in it (by mouth) and nothing. It only gets air in it if I push the tiny metal pin of the adapter. Other way, nothing While I had the intake boot out, I did the crank sprocket test someone mentioned here. I got the car in 4th gear and a friend pulled it back/front/back/front/... When the flywheel starts to move, it keeps moving for about 1 or maybe a half flywheel tooth before the camshaft pulley starts moving. is that what you meant? So what's the cure for this? Replacing the crank sprocket? or only the pulley? thank you all....
You need to watch the lower crank pulley in relation to the flywheel.watch the flywheel by removing the green timing bung on the gearbox. As soon as the flywheel moves the lower pulley should move (along with belt and top cam pulley etc). There might be a bit of play as the WHEELS move, before the flywheel moves, thats normal and will be diff/cv joints etc,but AS SOON as the flywheel moves the lower pulley etc should move.if that moves as soon as the fly does, check the top pulley doesn't have play (ie the sprocket moves with the belt) and doesn't sit still for a second.. My crank keyway had opened right up, and the key on the pulley had sheared right off. A mate dowelled it with a 4mm screwdriver shaft, by drilling through a new pulley (with good key)and into the nose of the crank.the dowels sat under the shoulder of the pulley bolt. It lasted a good thrashing for a month or 2, but eventually failed. I haven't even bothered to remove the bolt or pulley to see the damage I jus got an abf and threw that in for now. I will prob get another crank for it, and re-dowel it with a good keyway to start with
well when my mate pushed the car, it took a lil for the flywheel to start moving. that would be the diff/cvjoints you mention, wouldn't it? however, when the flywheel starts moving, it takes a tooth or so before the cam pulley starts moving and that should be instantaneous. Am I right if I guess that (as you say) the crank sprocket has some play on it? And this play makes the flywheel move a little before the timing belt moves, is that right? If so, got any pics of the crank sprocket or, maybe, the thing that fails? It would make me understand it easier as I'm not English and I'm not familiarized to some technical words I'm afraid thanks for replying may an abf come soon if the sprocket is dying...
I'll repeat that test today, but instead of looking at the flywheel, I'll pull out one plug and put the oil dipstick in one cylinder. Then, look for lag between the dipstick and the cam pulley....
Hi ...and instead of moving the car forward and back, put it in gear , jack up one front wheel and turn the wheel by hand.
If the lower pulley moves soon as the fly does, then the lower pulleys ok.(Go back and forth a bit to check). If the lower pulley moves,along with the belt, but the top pulley is delayed, then the top (cam) pulley has gone. Imagine looking at the end of the crank with pulley removed. You'd have a circle, basically with a small notch cut out of it. The pulley has a small keying notch that sits in the crank slot,to line up the tdc mark. Its nothing mental, just literally a gap one end, and a notch on the pulley to sit in that gap. Make sure you rock the car back and forth, not just back say, because the key could be locked against 1 side of the slot and be holding. Its not until you push it the otherway you'd see it move back.
yep, that's when it happens in my car. I'll repeat the test today looking at the crank pulley/cam pulley. thank you all. I hope it's finally the problem. Despite having to spend money on it, at least I'll find the intermittent problems that this engine has been experiencing since a long time ago... thanks!!
I put the oil dipstick in cyl n1, car in 4th gear, a friend pulling front/back/front/back/etc when the dipstick started to move up/down, the cam pulley started moving. Maybe it had a little lag, but not noticeable (mostly in my imagination ...). however, while I was there, I also did this test by putting a finger in the flywheel (through the gearbox hole) and, when it started moving, the cam pulley took some (little) time to start moving. I couldn't check the flywheel-crank_pulley as it's impossible to have a look at both at the same time though... does that flywheel <-> cam pulley lag mean that the crank sprocket has some play on it? I think yes but just to make sure. I'd pull my hair if I replaced the engine and it wasn't the problem :S
the crank pulley will turn very slowly in relation to the flywheel because its so much smaller, so this isnt really a great way to check if the keyway has gone unfortunately. you can move the fly nearly 6 degrees before you can notice the crank pulley moving, this is one reason why i never use the crank pulley marks to time it up. the crank pulley mark can be lined up, yet the flywheel is miles off!
well I'll do the compression test when I get my gauge replaced/refunded by the ebay seller as it's not working... I'll also do a delivery + fuel pressures test again just to make sure it's not fuel related. and about timing advance/ecu... is spark advanced ONLY after 4k revs or so? So then, even if the ecu was dead, should there be power before 2k or so?