mk1 golf, 16v pressure plate - cant disengage clutch now!:(

I have a BIG problem,

We have just taken the box off my mk1 GTI 1.8 and changed the pressure plate for a uprated mk2 16v one from Chris, and Ive fitted a new Sachs clutch, (the old one was fubar'd clucth slipping every so often, loads when on the track or sprinting) and put it all back together.

the problem we have now is that the clutch wont dis-engage, and the gearbox seems rather cruchy when the engines not running.

The cluch fitted has the part number 027 141 032J - this has been replaced by 027 141 033sx which according to the ETKA is for a DX engine....but on the box of the clutch written in marker pen it says, GTI 1.8 >83, G2,J2, and SC 1.8

do I need to use a different clutch? or am I missing something? the pressure plate is the original mk1 GTI one, should I have used a MK2 one or something...

any ideas whats up? as i need to sort this asap [:^(]

 

im sure the clutch is the right way, it doesnt seem to go in the other way as it would be pressing on the release plate all the time.

 

I have had to take up loads of slack from the cable, its a new cable and with the old set up there wasn't much of the adjuster used, now its been rebuilt it I have used all the adjuster so I didnt know if it was to do with the different pressure plate....

Ill stip it down tomorrow morning first thing.

 

Hmm, did the release plate (the bit with the massive circlip around it) look ok, where the clutch pushrod pushes it in the centre?

But since it was working before hand, it should be ok, as long as it's back in the same

Off, chance, but has the same gearbox been used? Reason I ask is the release bearing in the end casing could be worn if a new one was just plonked on.

Could really do with some pics.

 

the release plate looked ok, didnt look buggered at all.

the same box has been used, just took box off, stipped the fly wheel off, then the clutch and release plate and then the pressure plate.

then put on the new pressure plate, bolted up to the correct toque, then fitted the release plate, then fitted the clutch and fly wheel again torqued up correctly.

the box seemed to go back on ok, not too much hassle got it all lined up and then a little jiggle to seat it all and bobs your uncle. then did up the bolts.

 

It all sounds fine going on.

Was there a rubber spacer under the external release arm where the cable ball fits in?

Just to check that rubber spacer's gone back on also, since without it, you'll lose 5-7-ish mm of cable adjustment.

 

yep I have the rubber thing back on under the release arm. my mate Ant who helped me build it all back up said it might be worth just trying some spacers on the cable to take out some more of the slack on the clutch cable but im not sure. might be worth a try i guess.

 

had it all apart, the new plate seems ok, and it was the right way round. the only thing is the bolts that hold the fly wheel to the pressure plate seem to screw in a long way untill they reach the correct torque..but that maybe just me.

 

RIGHT - heres the prob...

when the box is back on the engine, the problem is that when the clutch arm is pulled up by hand there is a lot of slack (about 8cm of free movement) untill it hits the release plate. when it touches the release plate its only a few mill off the side engine mount so it cant be moved enough to release the pressure plate.

should the packing plate that goes between the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the crank and the pressure plate go on the other side? in haynes its in front of the bolts ontop of the pressure plate, and this is how it came off with the old 8v pressure plate.

or do i need a longer release rod?

 

Check this link from broke for the release arm position, may be of some help.

http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html

i just read a reply from you stating that the friction plate can't go on the other way as it would press the release plate all the time, just to check the friction disk in the pic is the correct direction to fit to the flywheel ( the release plate is upside down) have you fitted it, the friction disk, the other direction causing the center to stop against the flywheel and so not travel enought to release?

 

seen that, its fixed now cheers,

the uprated 16v pressure plate was causing the problems, it would apprear the springs are too deep and causing the release plate to sit too far away, we have rebuilt it all with the original 8v pressure plate and the new 8v clutch and it seems to go ok, the real test will come at the end of the month when it goes off for its trackday...so fingers crossed it all holds up.

edit, that pic is the same as the pressure plate that wouldnt work.

if it doesnt work on track them im going to look at getting a uprated 8v clutch set as then in theory it should all match up as its a complete kit.

 

It looks like a may have the same problem with my 16v Helix Clutch !

God damnit !

 

Nope, the pressure plate supplied in the helix kit is 4mm shallower than an 8v GTI one I measured, bringing the whole assembly 4mm thurther away from the pushrod.

I CAN NOT understand why this is though, it's meant to be a direct replacement group N kit from helix
I'm gong to ring them in a second..