Mk1 golf Camber

Hi All

Not posted for a wee while

Dragged my golf out of the garage for the first time sense last year last weekend and it needed new top mounts so i brought and fitted febi ones this weekend,but now need to get the camber setup,for the life of me i can't remember what the setting was as it's mainly track car and odd road car what would be the right setting? as need to book in before castle combe on the 24th


Cheers

 

I asked a simlar question a little while ago and 1.5 - 2 Negative was recommened for a track set up. Hope this helps.

 

Using standard top mounts ?

 

Hi

OK so would that be 1.5 on passenger side and -2 on the drivers side as i have a trackrite camber gauge and could do it myself


cheers

 

A bit ambitious with standard top mounts?

Out of interest what can you get with standard top mounts? Im using Compbrake mounts so thats where the above settings came from.

 

I`ve run 2` at a hillclimb on standard mounts but did not like the handling ... 1.5` on circuits was fine when using a Koni Sport suspension kit / standard mounts.

Reason for the ? was ... does running outwith standard settings adversely affect the standard top mounts ?

 

If you run so much neg camber when the wheels are pointing straight ahead it means that the castor cannot get rid of the neg and go pos on the inner wheel when you turn the steering.
There is no body roll when the car is going straight ahead!
There is body roll when you turn a corner however, that is why suspension geometry has castor. ie to put neg on the outside wheel and pos on the inside when the steering is applied. By setting so much static neg you ruin the effects of the limited amount of castor that was built in from the outset.
All you are doing by running so much camber in a straight line is causing drag by trying to rotate the inside of the tyre at a different speed from the outside of the tyre, due to the different rolling circumferences caused by the camber.
This setup is sometimes used though to generate heat in a tyre for grip though, eg racing or rallying.

Top tip for dyno number junkies = No camber, parallel steering and hard tyres!

 

There is with me in the driving seat

Thank you for the info / explanation ... goes some way to me understanding my crap driving here ... with 2`

 

forrestburn!

i was told a good starting point is 1 & 1/4 degrees on road tyres and 1& 1/2 degrees on slicks. can't remember the castor will need to check. still to get out and get some proper seat time and testing done back to back with various settings.

now the shoulder has been given the ok(ish) that will happen soon. get yourself ready dan the man!

 

Aye ... a great 1000m !

Thanks .. current Leda set up is ~ 1.5` with 5`positive caster, not yet driven though ...

 

Ahh Danster, I do believe that only too much static camber by changing SAI will negate the effectivness of castor. Changing static camber by adjustment of the camber bolts at the base of the shocks will not have an adverse effect because the suspension pickup points have not been altered.

Gurds

 

Hi Gurds,
What limited amount of castor there is on a std mk1 will toil to get rid of the maximum neg camber you can potentially have by adjusting the 2 shock too hub bolts for max neg camber.

Look at it this way. If you run 2 deg neg on both sides of the front to combat body roll when cornering, this effectively means the inside wheel is running 4 deg the wrong way as there is not enough castor to make the inner wheel get near positive. This means that the inner tyre has limited pressure of it's tread in contact with the road (less grip).

I know your car is far from std now so everything changes. When a mk1 is lowered to the point when the wishbones are past horizontal what little good geo there was has gone.
The ball joint extenders and flipping of the trackrod ends are meant to regain the correct arc between wishbone and steering arm, but I am staggered to hear that some folks still get bump steer when they have been fitted. Some of the measurements are out somewhere along the line if that is the case.

My green car has no bump steer over the entire range of front suspension travel, both bump and droop. It took a fair bit of time and effort get to this point.

 

I love the geek smiley! Hahaha!

I see your point about a std mk1, it would be tilting the inner wheel to even more neg camber because of the lack of castor.

Gurds

 

to much tech for me so will book it in to be done


Cheers for the reply's