Ive got a mk1 project which started out as a 1.1 carbed engine, this is now removed and while im setting to sorting the bodywork im trying to decide which engine route to go down.... 2l 16v on twin carbs OR 2l 16v on injection. I know i would need to change the petrol tank, pump, and get the whole injection system to put say a ABF in on injection so i was thinking as this is already a carbed based car would it be better to go the twin carb route such as webers or bike carbs and smooth the engine bay The car is not a daily driver so not too bothered about fuel consumption, but wondering how often (average) do they need balancing and tuning Can anyone confirm what would be required in installing a twin carbed 16v engine into the mk1 for example fuel wise etc Cheers for your help
It does'nt really matter what type of fuel system you go for as you'll need a lot of different parts to make either work. If you go for carbs you'll need as a starting point... Carbs (!) Inlet manifold Throttle linkage Fuel pump Pressure regulator There are other items needed such as ram pipes, misab plates, fuel hose and various fittings but it all depends what you buy and what you get with yr purchase. Carbs can be made to work very well, dont listen to those that say they go out of tune all the time as thats a load of sh%te. "Worn" carbs will be a pain to set up so be "very" careful buying used, and a cra% throttle linkage will give you a headache, only use a genuine Weber item, it makes a "big" difference to the setting up. I've re-balanced mine 3 times in 6 years hard motorsport use, but my carbs are old and slightly worn.
If you went for injection you can keep the tank, just use mk1 cab/rocco later lifter pump and reservoir to supply the under car pump. if you went with carbs you still need a fuel pump of some kind, facet + fpr or matching bike pump if you get bike carbs. Just to check you know about moving the engine mount to convert your car to fit a big block lump right? couple of questions to help you decide: 1. are you good with wiring? 2. do you like induction noise 3. do you have deep pockets for petrol purchasing
cheers fellas. Mr Hillclimber - cheers for the info you answered a question about this for my mk2 with a 2l 8v on Kjet but i sold it in the end and got this mk1, I am in no rush to do the conversion and would purchase parts as and when etc , all i read is that they are in need of constant balancing so nice to hear thats not the case Rubjonny - Aye i know about the engine mount needing rewelding for going for a large block from a small one cheers anyway mate, im good with wiring, love induction noise and not too bothered about fuel as its not a daily driver :-)
right then so you couldgo for a full abf/kr amangment swap if you wanted, but since you care for induction noise and not about fuel carbs would also be good for you
to be honest mate ease of the actual installation really ,,, carb noise is nice :-) with what ive read there is not a big difference in power from using carbs, unless thats the feel from carb haters
Many carb conversions are carried out by well intentioned enthusiasts but with incorrect information. If you fit the wrong size & worn carbs, fitted with the wrong size chokes, jetted incorrectly, mounted on a cr*p inlet manifold, controlled by a worn & poor throttle linkage and then "tuned" by someone with very little interest or understanding of carbs, is it any wonder they dont always give the results they're capable of... I know many a competition engine in various race, rally & hillclimb cars that run carbs and can still give throttle body equiped cars a seeing too... so they can be made to work. On a decent inlet manifold, and with all other components correct, twin carb conversions can give around 10% more power, so the higher the spec of the engine, the better the result.
ease of installation then you want injection, as its all available std. carbs/tbs you need an inlet making up, and as mr hillclimber says its gotta be a goodun! you can get great induction noise on injection if you chop the bottom of the airbox off, or fit an induction filter. Generrally you have to cut the bottom off on a MK1 anyway as there isnt much room on top of the chassis leg to get it in there. Not that its in any way a substitute for carb noise, but its still pretty good! Just have to shield it well from engine bay heat, or dont bother like me ABF managment is great as its literally fit & forget, theres no setup to do on it at all, idle, co, ign timing is all done by the ecu. only issue id you need a lambda in your downpipe, but this isnt too hard plus there are conversion manifolds on the market that have the boss for them already. Since you know wiring you shouldnt struggle to get it in either
