Well the cr has the ko3 on it but i would be looking to fit something with a but more go I was shocked buy how much people are asking for ko3s or dreaming there worth!! Did you use the Ibiza gear box? I think as my golf has not seen the road in over a year i will just fit the Ibiza fron end with stanard ecu as i am starting to loose patients especialy as i just got all vr6 bits together!! Then i can get all ko4 or GT28rs and Stand Alone ECU bits sorted whilst at least having useable car other wise this car may never get finished.
My AGU 20v engine in its current state - Ive just taken a few pictures of my current MK4 20v engine to compare what i have missing and what i need to find - 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
3. Breater unit, divertrer valve, various piping, (which i need part numbers for if anyone has got etka). Ive got the y shaped breather pipe, but what does it attach to. I can see one part attaches to the rover cover, then where ? 4. N75 valve, air intake pipe. 5. Is the charcol filter needed ? 6. I know the secondary air pump isn't need, so no need to find the plumbing for that. 7. The metal piping. Can i still buy this ? 8. ??? Any input would be great. Just need to get an idea/list of things i'll need to gather to get the engine going, and what i will not need. Cheers Any more input on the above would be great, cheers
Silicone hoses mean alot of If i can a few standard ones it will work out alot cheaper. Will probably go for a silicone TIP and breather
Yes they arent cheap but i thought standard ones were prone to colapse? To be honest if i was in your postion were you just finished your last build i would get all the parts together as and when you can afford them and enjoy project GT. But then you do have a mk4 GTi. I have personal wasted so much time and money not buying the best quality parts i need only to spend more money later on. i am 3rd engine now but wish i had saved up for a 20vt and kept my GTI on the road hopefully at least the donor car will have all the bits bar intercooler and exhaust to get my gti on the road again.
Intrestingly whilst on the hunt for a downpipe i was reading JBS web site after drooling over big turbo packages i found there conversion page: http://www.jbsautodesigns.co.uk/content/6/ I find there view on not using a OEM ecu very interesting in complete contradiction to what others on here have stated however some said exactly the same to me when i was thinking about going for 24V VR6. Seems to be a real split i can understand both and a mates garage is telling me to go for motec M4 but he uses his cars on the track.
Very true mate. Tbh im in no rush to fit the engine anytime soon. If i had the spare cash and space i would definitely had bought a donor car, but as i got a good deal on the 20v lump i'd of been stupid not to buy it! As you said, enjoy the 8v for a little while longer and gather the bits and pieces over the next few months My MK4 is great as a daily. Its got a Custom-Code map on it, estimated power output at 200-210 bhp, and is really smooth to drive. I'd be happy with this setup in the MK2 tbh.
I have to agree with JBS,what they mean is,the vvt engines run ME7.5 that has a wideband lambda.This is the best setup (imho) it self tunes to a degree (altering ignition & fueling to suit the readings of said lambda) some say it produces more power than the other VAG management systems. I changed my engine to run the system (putting my money where my mouth is so to speak lol) but it still cost less than a qpeng P&P setup.
That is not how the system works mate! Self tuning...it does not. Adaptation to pre calibrated torque requests yes. This is not justification to keep OEM vs a standalone.
Correct me if i am wrong but i dont belive a Standalone ECU self tunes? With SEM do you loose your fault out puts and MPG etc? The DBW seems to be the problem from what i have read from the stand alone which is the route i plan to enetualy go down as i have all the parts off donor i just want to get my car running as quickly and cheaply as posible until i can afford bigger turbo and associated parts.
I see,i was under the impression that it ran the engine just off "knock" and adapted fuel trims timing etc.. to suit but "learnt" how the engine was running in closed loop. Like i say mind,i'm under the impression of this,not that i would claim to know how it all works (i'm not very good with electrics lol) What i do know though,is that they are a little sensitive to boost leaks and require EVERYTHING to be in working order to be able to run at its best,so not "infalable".
Coming from a Electronics background the only profesional perspective i can put on it is that i have never seen anything that is designed to work with a wide array of equipment i.e different engines work better than something that is designed to work specifical for one piece of equipent. Before i get lots off you dont know what your talking about i mean: VW ECU are designed for road cars and not track they are designed with econemy and engine life/ Wear taking into account the also have to take into different grades of fuel across the EU the were 3 types of unleaded when i was last lived in Germany. I have note seen a VW Track specific ECU to compare to SEM That said this should give a indication as to whats best in your 20vt Conversion if its for Track You will be way better stand alone if its going to be a daily i would use OEM ECU.
No ECU "self tunes". There is adaptation yes to things like air charge errors, leaks, fuel quality, knock and so on but bear in mind this is a system that operates mostly at lambda 1, only enriching when the driver requests high load ( which has a fuel economy bias so still leaner than LBT)or over fuelling if exhaust component is at risk ( which kills all the torque in favour of protection). All the clever adaptations of these ECUs are from mapped values which takes significant time to develop, on dyno and in vehicle at various locations, the same that you would have to do if the ECU was an aftermarket unit. Be under no illusions. There is no requirement for mandatory diagnostics ( EOBD, OBD2, JOBD), or monitoring emission related faults on SEM units. The car is being built to your requirements, not Brussels You can log data from many SEMs which is very beneficial when setting up a vehicle or even for track work to track changes. Very difficult to do the same for the owner with an OE ECU then make change. E-gas systems (Motronic E-Gas torque structure) are not a problem and there is lot of mis informed opinion floating out there. However in an old Golf MK2 which has non of the requirements of a later 2000 onwards vehicle, has an enthusiastic owner that wants to get the best out his engine and understands the fundamentals of his engine, keeping a complex ME7 controller is a restriction and will be very expensive to access to make calibration changes live. All you want is fuel air and spark, calibrated well, to give good cold start performance and drive feel and the SEMs on the market and very well suited to deal with matching these to any engine. Bearing in mind I have access to these things, but for simplicity and accessibility the SEM would be the way.
So taking everything Into account with the later 20vt which is the best stand alone management to use with drive by wire and sourcing get you going maps?
"Drive by wire" is associated with torque structured Bosch systems, where the driver demands a "torque" from the available and max torques, the engine is able to achieve. The driver demand is usually the top priority among all the other torque demanded processes such as, idling, heating/warming the catalyst with SAI, alernator control, cruise control, ABS/Traction control, Haldex control, AC, Heater performance, Cooling Fan and other reserves. So why do you need this in a Golf Mk2 other than it all sounds cool?. There are after-market ECUs that can drive an E-GAS throttle but not in a "torque demanded fashion" However I cannot see what would be the benefit or the justification in cost is over a cable throttle in an old application like this. 1.8T in a Mk2, as said, needs fuel, air and spark to make the engine go. Simple control is the answer unless you have a good reason not to.
No I don't require all those functions. But as I myself has found finding out all this information to be very disjointed can the later DBW be converted to cable by I.e using a AGU throttle body? Fair do's Toyotec you have a wealth of knowledge going on there. Shame really you haven't done a 20vt conversion thread like it student ABF build.
All these parts must be avaliable as it is a supported car. I would take picture to you vw dealer for the unidentified item but they may be expensive!!
Yea i know there available, just need some part numbers and confirmation of the name of some of the parts so i know what im looking for
