Hi All, I have had a read of the FAQ's and tried to search the forum (get a SQL error) but can't seem to find anything relating to my problem. Any help appreciated! The car is a pig to start from cold (still trying to work out what's causing that) but once started it used to idle a bit rough for 30secs or so then level out. Now it is idling rough all the time and will misfire at low revs. Yesterday for the first time I noticed that sometimes the idle won't drop to the usual 950 - 1000rpm but sticks around 1250rpm. I know on the digifant you can clean an idle screw/replace an o-ring to help this - does this apply to the k-jet 16v too? I have checked all the vacuum pipes, ducting, breathers, the ISV is ok etc. The dizzy cap and rotor arm are new. What should I look at next? The CO and idle *should* be ok as they were set up at Stealth not too long ago although I have replaced the head gasket since then. Would that affect things? Help please! Edited by: Stu
<Bump> Any ideas? I've read the FAQ on stalling 16v's but it doesn't really cover what causes the idle to be higher than normal. It was p1ssing me off on the way home from work today, each time I stopped at lights the idle was fluctuating between 1,000 and 1,250 rpm or so!
I had my idle at 1600 once Its a freaking shame to see everybody looking at you... Sometimes, I would let the clutch a little, to get it lower Mine looks like it has some nasty heavy cams at idle!! And sometimes it missfires too! I'm starting to think that my timing is out... Its time to change the timing belt...
Hi Stu, I found when attempting to search the forum if you search by topic subject rather than message body and stick to a specififc section i.e. engines it sometimes works Regarding your misfire my car ran very rough when I first got it after trying lots of things it turned out to be a broken earth strap around the cylinder head IIRC may be worth a look. Best of luck Pete
I am quite sure that you will have checked most of my ideas but here goes. Are you sure that the cam/cam timing is correct following your head gasket replacement. With the ISV control lead disconnected you should be able to get a steady idle just using the air screw on the throttle body. Like the 8v you may need to clean the screw and airway. On mine the air screw used to wind out causing a fast idle after motorway driving until I replaced the "O" ring. Is the vacuum hose connected to the warm-up regulator and are there any air leaks. I once left the injector air shroud hose off - part of the block breather hose - and are the injector seals OK. Does the throttle position switch work. Just a few checks I would do but I am sure you will have done most. Good luck! Edited by: stevef
Here's my checklist for ya: Mixture Timing (crank-cam, cam-cam + dizzy) Battery condition and earth Temperature senders all connected throughout engine (side and back of head, oil cooler housing) Plugs + leads (check the condition of the plugs at least) Dizzy cap/rotor arm Fuel leak/poor pressure (pump) Clean the air flap in the metering head. Warm Up Regulator.
Just to add to that, check the movement of the air flap in the metering head - make sure its not sticking on the outside of the body, also make sure its aligned as per the haynes manual.
Still think you've got a vacumn leak. The small pipe that t's off the breather pipe and fits to the underside of the inlet manifold lower section, is that connected?
Yep - checked that one, it's connected okay. Going to give it a thorough going over at the weekend and take it all apart and put it back together again! Some good suggestions above, thanks for all the replies. I haven't checked the air flap alignment, that's a good idea - will have a look there. Peter - good tip on searching the forum too, tried that and it works much better! Edited by: Stu
Right, had a good crack at it yesterday afternoon. Cleaned out all the ducting from the air box to throttle body, air flap (position is ok), idle screw etc. I also took the crankcase breather off and it was full of mayonaise (!) so cleaned that out, presumably that was to do with the head gasket business? I took the WUR off and turned the allen screw back to the position it was when Stealth tuned it. Vince had told me to try turning it back (anti-clockwise) 1/8th turn in the past to try and cure cold starting. I disconnected the red lead on the coil and set the idle to about 950rpm and it's reasonably stable. Connected the red lead back up and it idles quite steady around 1000rpm so seems okay. Thanks for the help everyone I thought I'd hit the jackpot with the cold start issue when I found the blue/white wire spade connected to the temp sender on the side of the head was pretty knackered. I believe that one goes to the ignition control circuit? Anyway, put a new spade on it and cleaned connections up but it still won't cold start properly... back to the drawing board. Any ideas?
If you are turning the allen screw on the WUR anti clockwise, you are going to lower the control pressure even more - making it even richer on a cold start. I wouldnt go fiddling with it without a gauges tbh, it might be miles out by "guessing". Sounds like the WUR might be the cause of the cold start problem mate...
Good point but I just made sure to turn it 1/8th turn clockwise yesterday to put it back to where Vince had it. He advised me a while back to try turning 1/8th turn anitclockwise which I did and it didn't seem to do much really regarding starting but definitely took the edge of the acceleration. Sounds like Vince's advice to turn a/c in the past was to richen mixture for a cold start then?
