interesting and no doubt infuriating problem for you here.... I would deffo check the timing before anything else though, you dont want to be chasing your **** for 6 months. Get all the basics eliminated before you start trying to picture a warped relay contactor bending 0.0032mm.... Timing is everything Have you got another batt to pop in, you never know......
Have just checked the timing - on turning the bottom pulley clockwise until the flywheel notch lines up with the notch on the casing, the cam pulley is about half a tooth out - is this enough to worry about?
is that definitely the TDC mark and not the 6 degrees advance mark? everything should line up perfectly?
Ahh, that explains that. I will double check the timing again but I'd have thought that's all correct then? Next step is to buy a strobe light I suppose - would I tippex the diamond or dot?
this is an interesting read for me as it sounds alot like the problem im having with my mk2 16v, im not trying to hi-jack the thread here but ill explain. cold startup after sitting overnight is fine but will miss for 5 seconds then clear. startup from running temp anywhere between 5 to 30 mins after switch off and its hard starting. sometimes i have to crank and release the key about 5 times in a row to get it to turn over just one revolution then it'll spin freely and fire up. is this the same kinda fault you're experiencing? although i plan to switch to bike carbs v soon id still love to sort the problem out should i possibly go back to k-jet during the winter time. my valve timing is ok as ive just relaced the cylinder head and the problem is still occuring. did u say you replaced your injectors with no improvement? i was convincing myself that mine were dripping badly but ive not checked them yet. maybe release the fuel pressure by cracking off pipe unions in the engine bay then trying it again?
no it doesnt look that great...the flywheel needs to line up with the tdc mark shown in the pic mushy posted, not the 6 deg ign timing mark line it up with the dot and see where the cam sits
if the engine isnt even turning over on the starter ignore everything to do with warm/cold starting, =fuel supply etc as that has nothing to do with it. your problem is either the voltage from battery, cabling from battery, ignition switch, starter, brass locating bush in the gearbox or perhaps you have a chipped tooth on the flywheel. Investigate in that order remove and clean all the wires from the battery, starter, chassis/gearbox earth and alternator till they're shiny and refit. Check you get 12v to the black/red wire spade plug when the key is in the 'start' position. Check battery voltage is 12v when off, and doesnt drop too much when you try to crank engine. Run a chunky wire from the red/black to the starter +ve, if the starter turns over strongly then its not the ignition switch.
i havent read the whole thread so might have been mentioned. but i had a similar problem and it turned out to be the coil. i spent months looking at fuel related problems, timing, metering etc etc.
Thanks all - I will check the timing again and see how it looks. This problem does sometimes occur when the engine is cold too.
I didn't get time to check the timing today - should get it done tomorrow. However, I stumbled across a skanky old set of injectors so decided to fit them to see if there was any difference, and it starts a hell of a lot better so I'm starting to wonder whether the used brass set I bought are shot...? I can't use the other set permanently as they also fecked, but the observation about the start up is interesting.
Right, I'm having some trouble finding this 'dot' on the flywheel. My flywheels does look exactly like the one that Mushy has linked to. All I can see is a score line to the LEFT of the 6 degree mark, but no dot to the right near the bolt. Anyone??
big arrowhead is 6 degrees BTDC if you mesure 12.5mm back towords the bolt on the right and that should be TDC
its not allways a dot have a look at this thread http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193413&highlight=tdc
I've now done this, and the cam pulley lines up so I'm 95% sure the static timing is right. I did also use the 'dipstick in cylinder 1' method to back up the TDC point. Might get myself a timing light gun to check the 6 degree advance. The coil was mentioned as a possible cause - does heat affect this? I'm still thinking that the injectors could be the cause of all this...?
start issues what about when a tired old starter has the heavy copper thick wire (between the starter and solenoid) in a brittle and lets say "poor conductive" state? same symptoms as "bad earth" just a thought, and as someone said already, replacing with a diesel one, which i really fancied but never tried. could it be a weakness, if so, make it better
Thanks for your help, but what you are describing would help the engine turning over. To clarify, this is not the main problem.
RAGE. I have just fitted a set of near new, and known to be working, injectors. Problem still occurs. To clarify, I have replaced... Fuel Accumulator Check Valve (system now holds pressure) Injectors The problem did used to just affect hot starts, but now seems to do it almost everytime. When it does fire, it sounds as if its not firing on all cylinders, and you have to keep the revs 'up' to stop it stalling, until it sorts itself out. Please, someone help me!
