Mk2 1990 1.3 CL ABF converted daily

been doing some wiring checks, noticed that my battery light doesn't come on with ignition, but i have ignition live at U2/12 which goes to battery light, however when i start the engine, this does not go out.
i then checked for continuity between U2/12 and the blue wire on ALT and it is good. so no breaks here.
does this bulb being out stop it charging? or is my alternator dead, also could this cause any of my other issues?

 

I could do with a direct line to you rj lol.

 

Earthed the blue wire and the light does come on, but that is the only time it comes on, if I start it, its about 12.2v until I rev it, the alternator does kick in at low to mid 13's but the light does not come on at all, even with the ignition.

anyway that's the least of my worries, I bit the bullet and ordered yet another thermostat from VW, almost 30 with the seal! apparently it was the very last one made before they go obsolete, so sorry people! I put it in, and the thermostat does open slightly earlier, just over half way on the temp gauge, the fan kicks in at 3/4 just as the light starts flashing but cuts off just under 3/4.
again if I run the fan permanently, it keeps the temp in between half and 3/4. so I don't think its the fan switch. I'm at a loss now and im going to start driving it as it is, and hope it sorts itself out lol.

 

thanks will check earth from plug F to claw, I have got an earth from the body to the claw anyway but will add one from plug F if it isn't there already. as usual, you are a legend!
haven't been using vag-com as I could not get it to sync baud rate, but solus is reading it ok, fan is kicking in between 100 and 105 and taking it back to 95-100.

 

Well I have been out driving tonight and I must say I am more than happy with stock abf performance at least for now lol. Seems to eat through the 8v gearing rather sharpish lol.
Thanks to everyone for your help
Will get some more pics up soon

 

hi, I have encountered yet another problem.

it has been driving fine until yesterday, now it seems to randomly cut out when I let off the throttle to idle, sometimes it will catch the revs, other times it will not.
it feels down on power and hesitates.

I plugged it in to the solus as I cant get it to communicate with vag-com and I get the fault code: Cylinder 1 recognition sensor no signal (G145).

I have searched on this and found it is likely a wiring issue to the distributor plug or similar.
I checked for continuity from brown/white to earth and is ok, as are the 2 that got to pin 44 and pin 45 on ecu plug, however when testing for voltage I get 11v (not 5v) at both pin 44 and 45, but they have no continuity with eachother. is this right or is my ECU duff?

edit: forgot to add I have checked earths to all other plugs with side of head AND ecu pin 33 and all checks ok too...

thanks again

 

ok i have cleared codes and it comes back, is it right that i have 11v to both pins other than earth to the 3 pin plug?

also i just cracked my ecu open to inspect for damage, and there was a burnt out track (the big one either main earth or main live) that has been previously repaired with a bit of wire, bit shoddy but looks ok, cleaned up around it but still the same.

going to try a hall sender if 11v to both wires is ok?

thanks again

 

Not to worry RJ, got a hall sensor from euros as TPS said whole dizzy only and i cant afford it right now.

the hall sensor that was on there had the pickup 180degrees from the plug, the one i got was next to the plug, but it fit anyway.
what i did was mark the part that goes into the camshaft, tapped the pin out, pulled the drive out, changed the hall sensor for different type one, replaced drive, and put the other part on 180degrees out (the wrong way).
this means the window is still at the same position as the pickup, however the rotot arm faces the wrong way so put dizzy cap back on and swapped leads to opposites.

yes this is a bodge i know, but it runs better than it ever has now she has all her power back plus more i would say. also idles perfect and catches the revs as they drop.

it will need a new dizzy soon anyway as there was a little bit of oil around the hall sensor so the seal is leaking slightly but it will be ok for now.

chuffed :-)

 

Hi Jon new to this site I got mk2 golf 8v 1991 just got a abf to fit I think the wiring is ok not 100% but I think I have cut of the air sensor plug I think I mite have spare one on the loom it' looks like it going in to the plastic pipe with nuffing in side the wires are black and brown don't no if that helps but if I get stuck do you still make the looms up

 

right, this has been long overdue, but with the work on the car itself, starting uni, and trying to earn a few pennies in between, i have not had much time.

the car has been on the road now for almost a couple of months, to start with i had quite a few small teething problems.
the crankshaft sensor oil seal was leaking, oil pressure switch leaking, a split coolant hose on the front. all the leaks have now been fixed and no further problems there,

the temp gauge still reads high and flashes at me to tell me it is overheating, i have tried 3 different switches, tested the wiring etc and im awaiting another set of clocks to try.
i know it is not overheating as its got a new genuine thermostat in, which just starts to open when the gauge is at almost 3/4, then the fan/s kick in when it is at just over 3/4. every part of the cooling system is new, other than some of the hoses, this issue still remains, but have had no other overheating symptoms, for now it will be ok!

i cannot seem to get the exhaust to clear the rear axle, i have adjusted it now 3 or 4 times and every time, it seems to be ok for a few days and starts banging and vibrating again, i am going to have to make some more brackets to hold it up tighter i think!

anyway, some more pics of the finished but unfinished car...



























Nice bit of parking made easy with power steering

 

Glad to drive this yesterday.

Forget to say, your 288 ATE brakes did feel very responsive too!

 

oh forgot to say, incase anyone notices, the wheels are not white!

i sed in a previous post that i had the wheels painted white, but i went to collect them from the body shop when i got to the point that i needed them on the car, and they were still sitting exactly where i left them, so for the time being, this is how the car looks.

im sure toyotec would agree as yesterday he saw and drove it, there is still a lot of work to do, but overall, it performs well and im happy.
after being in JENVEE though, i must say that the ride and handling of that car feels so much smoother and more planted than mine, the FK coilovers i chose (mainly for cost reasons) are only height adjustable, it feels like there is virtually no damping and it is so stiff it is not very comfortable on even a fairly smooth road, and it bounces a lot. we will have to see how long i can cope with these for!

there is no rear interior in at the moment, as the whole interior of the car was pretty disgusting, damp and filthy i just got rid of it, but if i come across a good condition 3dr interior when funds allow, i shall have it back in.

please excuse the chavvy mirrors, bonnet gas struts and chavvy gearknob etc. these all came on the car when i got it! please dont feel you have to be polite and avoid this subject LOL, they are vile and i want rid of them but the mirrors i bought on ebay were the wrong ones!!

im debating buying another cheap runabout soon so that i take her off the road and give her a more than needed respray!

 

288mm drilled and grooved discs from volksbits, standard pagid pads (ebc ones i had were wrong), mk3 gti rear disc setup, 23mm ABS master cylinder from unknown,
9" servo, braided lines all round and i have a tap bias valve for the rear which i have had to turn all the way to minimum!

i have used one outlet on M/C for fronts, and one for rear to enable the bias valve to be in the engine bay, which also saved some brake line as i only needed one up to the rear which is t-pieced to both rear flexi's.