Have factory central locking on my 91 Mk2 linked to a toad alarm that locks via a keyfob remotely Noticed today that when I unlocked the car the drivers side unlocked but the passenger side, boot or petrol flap didnt unlock & I couldnt hear the pump in the boot whirring away At the 3 pin pump connector I get earth at the centre terminal, then 12v at each side terminal in turn as I lock & unlock So if I connect the pump to a seperate battery in the garage to test if it works, & Id connect centre pin to earth, then 12v to one side then 12 to the other the pump should whirr - does this sound correct & does it sound like a failed pump?? Ive heard that the switch in the drivers door sometimes fails, but does the test above show that this is ok & the pump is to blame? Thanks!
yep that is correct. the system is simple the switch in drivers door getsd permanent live, it then switches power output between the red/yel and red/white depending if the door is locked or unlocked.
Well I got a 2nd hand pump today & connected it up The car locked fine, but when I pressed my fob again only the drivers side unlocked & the pump didnt operate (couldnt hear it running) Disconnected the pump & powered it manually through my power probe & it worked ok Connected it back into the car & again it wouldnt work as it should. With the pump disconnected I could suck & blow down the tube in the boot to unlock & lock the pass side/hatch & petrol flap locks so I think the lines are all ok & leak free. When sat in the car with the door closed, I tried locking & unlocking the drivers door via the vertical locking knob, but this didnt operate all locks & the pump as it should, only the drivers side Had another fiddle around between pumps etc & since the drivers window was open I again manually pulled the locking knob up & down & I could hear the pump then click into life. Pulling up & pressing down the knob would then lock & unlock the all dors & hatch as it should. The car (for now) locks & unlocks remotely through the keyfob, so Ive left it at that Does this perhaps point towards a faulty/intermittent drivers side switch or connection? Since I also have a Toad alarm with remote locking fitted, is it always the case that I would have the factory switch mated to a aftermarket solenoid switch too, or is it possible that the factory switch has been junked totally in favour of just an aftermarket one? I honestly cant remember seeing whats fitted at the moment. I didnt have time to remove the door panel as it was getting dark, & if it is faulty Id prefer to have a spare to swap over.
Sounds like the switch in the door - maybe got a bit sticky, or caused by slop in the linkage not pushing the arm far enough to cause the pump to operate, which is why it worked when you manually pulled the lock button, and forced the lever to move beyond its normal operating range.
Yes that sounds feasible Mike_H, thanks Ill strip the door panel off at the weekend & get an idea of whats going on Normally is the added aftermarket actuator wired in tandem with the drivers door switch, or does it replace it altogether? Ill try to get some spares if I can before the weekend (or please PM me if you have a drivers side switch available!)
it needs to be along side the factory unit otherwise the pump wouldnt be triggered, though some kits have a +ve pulse lock/unlock output which you can adjust the timing for, then you can wire this direct to the central locking wires. you'll still need an actuator in the drivers door weither electric or vacuum as the unit in the door is just a switch
Ah ok RJ So if Im correct my problems could be due to a faulty factory drivers switch, or a faulty/intermittent aftermarket actuator? Ill double check the connections too So do you think it would be a 2 wire actuator rather than a 5 wire? Cheers for your help
2 wire would be fine for you, the reason you use 5 wire actuator is to tell the central locking brain that the doors are locked/unlocked,so it can trigger the other locks. this is the job of the driver side factory cl switch so you can just use a 2 wire here. it might be the actuator is worn out so it cant move the cl rod enough to trigger the switch, on mine it did similar and it turned out the earth to the aftermarket cl brain was poor
I once tried this with the Toad AI606 together with the factory MK2 C/L pump. It's supposed to be possible to configure the AI606 to do a several-second long pulse, which should be sufficient run time for the pump to suck / blow the doors locked / unlocked. After lots of headbanging though I found that there seemed to be a bug with the AI606's software in that every now and again it only produced a short pulse, even though configured for a long one. So, I had to do the usual electrical solenoid route as is usually done on MK2s.
yeah i wouldnt recommend doing it that way, after all you dont actually gain anything as you still have to put an actuator in the drivers door!
Hi John i am in trouble with the central locking on a mk2 golf its not working i think the vac pump has packed up also i think there's no power to it as well ,i fitted the 2 drivers door actuators there's a red wire that i thought was permanent live so when connected the actuators the main one works and shoots up but then after awhile it is getting hot the wiring is a mess ,i don't know what i am doing,do you have any advice , or can you recommend some one that could sort it please
so the red wire is the permanent live for the CL yep, it should run to a 3 pin plug driver side near a pillar, then from there to the 3 pin door switch in drivers door. then the red/yellow and red/white wires from switch go back to thaty 3 pin plug, then off to the vacuum pump in the boot. the brown wire to pump is the earth and it goes to the earth point behind the boot carpet near passenger rear light. its pretty simple in operation, you get voltage to pump either on the red/yellow or red/white depending if the door switch is in the lock or unlock position then pump will run till it detects all locks have moved
hi rubjonny ,i got that but there is no life at the vac pump three pin connection, i found a live red wire in the drivers door so temporarily connected it to 5 wired actuator plus temporarily connected the existing wires to actuator too and then the door lift pin opened without touching the fob, then the actuator starts to get hot so i disconnected again ,what do you think ,other than me being a numpty i am useless with electrics ,dont suppose you know any-one near stockport that can fix these things ,also where i would be able to get a vac pump (already bought a dud one) i dont understand where you say in your tag that i will have to sign into google/gmail for the link
alright if you have a 5 wire actuator its like so: green/blue - hooked to remote CL unit or alarm, these are the motor wires to move the actuator black - common input for internal position switch -> red brown/white - lock position, try both ways till it works as expected then splice properly -> red/white & red/yellow
