hi,, that looks like the diagram from my haynes manual Yeah i checked that and i checked that the friction plate was in the right way (longest spline shaft towards gearbox end) But still no luck. As ive said I have bought a new clutch and the pressure plate looks slightly different to the one that came out. But it all goes in ok. The only differences are slight ones in the casting etc, but the springs and height look the same by eye as far as I can tell. But are there different types of clutchs? ie, could i have got the wrong type? Also I have replaced the flywheel as the one i took out was fairly worn, the one i took out was a spanish one, and the one i have put in its place is from my doner car (1987 mk2 gti 8v PB) it looks the same but its german and not spanish. are there different types of flywheel for the mk2 could this be the problem. It looks almost identical. apart from where it was mde and balancing marks etc. Im clutching (exuse the pun) at straws.
You need to get both the old and new parts side-by-side and check they are dimensionally exactly the same.
I have had them side by side and the old one is slightly thinner than the new one but i thought that was just wear. Ill take some pics of the clutchs too so people can have a look and tell me what they think. All the variables are confusing me Ill try to get pics up tonight..
I think you need a second opinion and someone else to look at it, it sounds like you've missed or misfitted something obvious, but you're unable to "see the wood for the trees".
could well be i cant see "the wood for the trees" syndrome, but its not exactly rocket science, its quite clear how that clutch goes together with the diagrams and logical thinking but i think your right, ive definatly been looking at it and pulling my hair out for too long!.[:^(] hopefully someone will have a "brainwave" when i get the pics up. unless theres anyone in the hampshire area willing to have a look hopefully Broke can comfirm my measurments and i can find out if my new box is ok.
*Like a muppet, I set the web page to look for the pics I added on my C: drive, so I'll fix the pics tonight when I get home from work* The pushrod figures you have are close enough to correct that it can be ruled out as the problem. 21-22mm of pushrod exposed with the arm lifted is enough to disenegage the clutch, or at the very least provide resistance. Check both flywheels for two 6mm alignment pins along the inside. Check both pressure plates for the notches along the edge that allow the flywheel pins to fit. The pins/notches not only center the flywheel on the PP, they also ensure the timing marks are right. The TO will looked crushed and broken if it is, but with them both looking the same, you can pretty much rule the TO bearing out as a fault. The 4mm and 21-22mm figures you have tell me the box is doing what it should. If the finger was cracked, the pushrod figures wouldn't be right. The problem just about has to be in the clutch parts somewhere. Pics of the clutch bits might show something. Broke
I'd help out but Hampshire is an awful long way away..... So the best thing is to take plenty of pics from different angles, of the clutch, flywheel and side of the engine. I have an engine out of the car, and a couple of clutches I can check dimensions against, etc.
A couple more pics from the site but not part of a "page", not sure if they'll help, but thought I would put them up just in case... Broke
I think I have them working now, let me know if they're still faulty. Tell me about it, Google Earth said it is over 3800 miles from me, so I won't be able to stop over and help. Broke
Right then fellas, Thanks for posting pics broke they are fine now. i took some measurments today. shame you two are so far away, some futher than others (broke) . Ive taken some photos of the rod measurments with relation to the lever to try and prove if the box is ok but just realised i cannot post em as i have not got a hosting url setup. Please tell me if theres an easier way to post pics on here. But basically as I said before I took a picture of the arm at rest (on plastic stopper) and from spline end to end of rod was 4mm. Another from arm held up at top position and spline end to end of rod was 21-22mm. Engine block (above bellhousing) to assembled friction plate spline end (just like your pic broke) was about 80mm. compared to your 82mm this ok? And release plate pushrod contact area (assembled in clutch) to end of spline on friction plate was about 40-41mm compared to your 36mm. is this enough to cause problems?? if so surley its got to be down to the pressure plate.?? Ill take some pics of the clutchs tomorrow. But i may have to email them. If someone would like to look. so either let me know your e mails or if you dont like giving them out on forums email me at j.nicholls@odyssey.co.uk. Thanks for your continued help fellas, hopfully we'll get there in the end. and i can stop walking to work
The pushrod figures sound right, the 80mm is OK, but the 4mm-5mm difference in the figure between the release plate and the end of the clutch hub sounds a bit iffy. It seems like your release plate is deeper in, which would make the arm lift higher, like you are experiencing. When you get pics of the clutch parts, email them to brokegti@sbcglobal.net and I'll host them. Broke
OK Broke thanks for the offer, I didnt like that 4-5mm difference either. Pics will be taken tonight and if i cannot host em ill e mail them to you. Cheers. I cant wait to find out what the problem is.
Email from Jack: First pic is release to spline gap = 40-41mm but i reassembled the old clutch and this measurement only changes but 2mm down to about 40mm 2nd + 3rd are when lever is at rest and when pulled up fully. leverup (longest) is about 22mm and down is about 4mm 4th pic is pressure plates to compare, new on left old on right. 5th is friction+release, new on left old on right. And finally the old broken actuator from the original box i took out, what started this whole problem. Thanks for your attention paul. I cannot seem to get these to the forum so if you could stick em on your photo bucket with access from the forum i would be very grateful. If not, thanks for looking and hope you see something i havent.
My first impressions are the release plates are different. Also I'm suspecting one is a 200mm and the other a 210mm clutch. They did both on the GTI, at one stage...
I agree the plates are different to look at but the measurments from release plate to outer rim of spline (on friction disc. pic1) is the same whether i assemble the old or new one. arrgh. Im tempted to rob the actuator finger (last pic) from replacment box to fix old box and put the old box back in, incase the boxes are different but i cant see it somehow. (sigh)[:^(] Ideas?
Well guys, I put the refurb box and new clutch on again and guess what, it works!?? I dont know what was up last time. but it bloody worked. Havent tried the car yet but the lever now goes solid at 9 o clock as it should. Found that a metal water hose (notorious on golfs) has gone so im gonna repair that before its running, but ill let you know. Thanks to all for your help, especially, Broke and paul_c. hopefully it'll be fine!
