MK2 Driver 1.8T conversion

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by richhasbigtits, Feb 12, 2023.

  1. richhasbigtits New Member

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    IMG_20221107_143201201_MFNR.jpg
    (I am trying to get rid of the photobucket watermark sorry)

    I have had this car for over 12 years, she's a little 1.6 driver with 112k on the clock.

    I recently got her back alive, after a service, overhauling the rear brakes, starter motor, fuel.pump and a few other bits she was running nice and then, when It was booked in and ready to leave for the MOT, the heater matrix exploded.

    So I swapped that out £165 later and booked her in for another MOT, engine starts running rough and seems like the head gaskets gone so... Its time for a new engine and to begin a new learning curve

    Here she stood just before pulling the engine
    IMG_20221107_143242025_MFNR.jpg

    I thought I may aswell pull the whole subframe out as I was unsure what would be going back in.

    Don't mind my axle stands...
    IMG_20230103_073036_497.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2023
    afbiker02 likes this.
  2. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice! Welcome to the land of 1.8t’s
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking good so far :) once you have 10 posts you can upload images direct to the forum. I've fixed those 3 for you in the mean time :thumbup:
     
  4. richhasbigtits New Member

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    Thank you for that!!
     
  5. richhasbigtits New Member

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    Yay I can post images now.

    I haven't done much other than remove the brake servo and loom. I'm going to ort through my loom tonight and see what's missing as there seems to be a lot of cut wires on the interior plugs.

    I got a package deal someone stripped out of an unfinished project off eBay with some parts for the conversion, I initially wanted to use a BAM engine but this seemed like a good deal.

    80k AYP engine ancillaries and gearbox with shifter/linkage
    Demobilised and wideband ecu
    vr6/g60 flywheel + clutch
    There is a loom which looks to have the Ce2 plugs already spliced in but who knows if they are correct.
    Hydraulic pedalbox (fabless?) and seat throttle pedal
    Clutch master cylinder, slave and pipework.
    Ttrs intercooler
    Pipework, MAF, boost gauge
    Not sure what shafts or mounts are on it yet but there is some attached
    There's a MAF and cheap boost gauge in there too.
    IMG_20230210_173318512_MFNR.jpg

    There was a front cross member with it but it looks exactly the same as my 1.6 cross member and almost identical mount so I don't know if this is any use to me for the conversion.

    The one in the photo closest to the engine is out of my driver and the one next to it came on the pallet. (It's spun the opposite way), is this the same cross member? Can it be used?

    IMG_20230210_171548262_MFNR.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2023
  6. daNpy Forum Member

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    Yeah they are the if you ask me :)
     
  7. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Same crossmember, mine was a 1.6 auto driver before my apy swap and it all bolts in with the right engine mount brackets.
    The s3 apy in mine was more than enough to smoke the wheels at 50, still a k04 turbo like the bam, yes its 15hp less but without the additional scene bam price tag. IMG-20210502-WA0001.jpg IMG-20220501-WA0000.jpeg
     
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  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    all the mk2 cross members are the same so just pick the best one

    when inserting images upload them first, then use the 'thumbnail' or 'full image' button next to the file once it appears :)
     
    richhasbigtits likes this.
  9. richhasbigtits New Member

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    Thanks for that guys I expected to be swapping my front cross member so that's one less part needed, great.

    Nice car and engine dodgy, mine is an AYP not APY, I mistyped. Apparently this engine is 180hp although when I search all the AYPs seem to be 150HP so I don't know.

    I did get my original pedalbox out last night then got distracted making a little blast cabinet so I can start cleaning up some parts.

    It's rough to look at but it will work and the only cost will be £30 for some proper gloves to attach.

    IMG_20230219_163612479_MFNR.jpg
     
  10. daNpy Forum Member

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    Did you watch the youtube video for that box? [:D]
     
  11. richhasbigtits New Member

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    No mate I didn't I was going to make one out of timber but this enclosure has been knocking around for years so I made use of it. Its nothing special but it will do the job!
     
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  12. richhasbigtits New Member

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    I've got the day off today to do some work on the golf. I've got the old pedalbox out and got this one close but It doesn't seem to fit right? I've got the bolts fingertight bit it seems like its crooked. Is it the wrong pedalbox?

    Should the hole at the top of the pedalbox line up with the bracket and hole to the left of it in my photo? It seems to be sitting twisted and I can't get the fusebox brackets back on with it like this. Also my brake pedal doesn't extend far enough to touch the brake pedal switch, is this normal ? Sorry for all the questions


    IMG_20230222_093104465_MFNR.jpg
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the hydro pedal box upper bracket doesnt line up no, this is something people dont mention when they say its 'straight fit'

    you also have to hammer the bulkhead round where the clutch master bolts in plus if its CE2 the fusebox hanger clashes as well. you can bend it about or modify a ce1 hanger, or I think the corrado/passat one works in a MK2 cant recall 100%
     
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  14. richhasbigtits New Member

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    Jonny you are the man. Thank you, that makes me feel better I've been wrestling for 2 hours trying to line it up.
     
  15. richhasbigtits New Member

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    I cut the bracket off and welded a little plate too it to strengthen it then welded it on the box so that it lines up with the original bolt hole. It's rough but it's strong, don't judge my welds too hard I'm teaching myself if I can call it that.

    It's not pretty anyway but it's strong and it lines up perfect.

    IMG_20230222_174403051_MFNR.jpg
     
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  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking good :)
     
  17. richhasbigtits New Member

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    I wanted to wait until I had some parts on the car before I updated but I've now decided to paint the engine bay so there's probably not going to be any interesting bits going in yet.

    Everyone is telling me to just get it running but I can't bring myself to do it, them shiny chassis legs do something for my brain.

    I have a white VR6 also which I painted the engine bay as it had been rattle canned black and it took me so long to prep but the shiny bay makes the shitty car look so much better.

    I have cleaned up a few bits ready to go back on
    Satin blacked the servo and high temp silver on the cylinder, excuse my dusty finger marks.
    IMG_20230301_174354111_MFNR.jpg
    Cleaned up a VR6 beam I have for it, and painted it with a stone chip proof paint. I've repainted the brakes too I just need to get some new bearings, discs and pads and I can put it on the car. Once I work out how to plumb it in.
    IMG_20230226_160237363_MFNR.jpg
    Unfortunately both the subframes I have are rusted up.
    IMG_20230301_173158627_MFNR.jpg IMG_20230226_160308278_MFNR.jpg

    So I'm hunting for a new one but there doesn't seem to be many within 80 miles of Birmingham at the moment.

    I mocked up the gear shifter too and they are a very different shape. I will make a bracket to for this so that it can bolt into the normal bolt holes next time I'm there.

    Top one is the OG bottom is new, I remember seeing people cutting away something to get these to fit but mine slides into the hole nicely, (giggidy) am I missing something ?
    IMG_20230304_143737033_MFNR.jpg

    Here is the vr6 I mentioned, at the moment I switch back and forth between this and the black one depending which one is frustrating me the most.

    IMG_20180416_211530.jpg
    IMG_20180513_112844.jpg
    IMG_20180518_194441.jpg IMG_20180901_124100.jpg

    Quick history on this car I bought it like 6 years ago for peanuts off ebay. It had been converted but it was rough as #@*& and it had a spare VR6 in the boot which definitely wasn't a good sign. It was super sketchy but my rational thoughts couldn't be heard over the vr6 rumble so I bought it and drove it back from Manchester with a long block in the boot.

    Chains were rattling but it pulled strong. I've had the engine out a few times done chains, clutch etc. Drove it for a while it was great but the bodywork needed attention so I parked it up ready for bodywork which it has been waiting on for 4 years...

    Fast forward to this year when I found some nasty rust on the A pillars and some previous weld repairs which weren't bad at all but they had not been primered so I'm dealing with that that the moment.
    IMG_20230222_165006462_MFNR.jpg


    I have finished fixing the passenger side now I need to weld up the driver side which doesn't seem as bad.

    This was the passenger side, brace yourselves. IMG_20221231_120409475_MFNR.jpg

    It's not perfect and it's not factory shape exactly but I went for strength over aesthetics as most of this area is covered. I may have gone a bit heavy with the seam sealer to hide my welds on the inner Channel don't judge me

    IMG_20230222_161434035_MFNR.jpg

    I plan to respray this car inside + out in the next month or 2. Then I'm not sure what to do with it, I would like to use it on the road but I can't afford to keep 2 projects on the road so we will see. It might end up a dedicated track car with a cage, it might end up as my daily. I change my mind like the wind so it's pointless stating a plan.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2023
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you need to chop the brackets a little bit to fit the polo 02J type selector, for the mk3 golf one it goes right in just need an adaptor plate or just use big washers under the bolts :lol: for the mk4 02j shifter you need to cut a lot more metal out and drill holes etc

    tbh more seam sealer the better in that area, removing the step is also a good plan as I suspect the cause of all this rust is nasty grot getting up there and getting trapped for years
     
  19. richhasbigtits New Member

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    Ah that makes sense I must have a mk3 golf one then, I have ordered some metal I'm just going to weld a couple strips on the sides or just make a new plate for it I'll see
     

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