MK2 Driver Clocks into MK2 with MK3 GTi engine

Thanks, exactly what I am doing but without the MFA.

 

Thanks John, they are Driver clocks. I wonder if anyone is likely to have the blanking part going spare?

 

So, to make sure I've got this right. Detach whatever wire is connected to G1/12 and run a new wire from G1/12 to the negative terminal on the coil?

 

Job done! very pleased.

This is what happened, a bit of an unnecessary saga.

To start with we took the old clocks out in order to test the new clocks. However, it was a huge struggle to fit the cable into the new clocks. It didn’t seem to want to go at all. On inspection the rears are different……….hold that thought.
Old

New

So we then swapped the old speedo into the new clocks - quite straightforward.
Popped the new clocks with old speedo in the car to test.
We found that the petrol gauge didn’t seem to be working? And neither were a bulb or two. The dial bulbs had been fitted with LEDs. So we swapped the old bulbs in and they seemed to be intermittent.
Anyway we needed to test the temp gauge so off for a test. The result was that the gauge was not steady, going up and down and when the fan cut in the temp light would flash - weird. However, fuel gauge now working fine.
I then noticed that the new gauges are VDO and the old ones Motometer. Clearly it would not do to have a mix and match and this accounted for the different rears (you can now stop holding that thought).
Now we tried the new speedo on the cable out of the clock housing, it fitted fine - more weird. So we put the new speedo back in the new housing.
It was then that I realised that when we were taking the clocks apart Ralph undid the screws that hold the temp gauge in place. I checked them and they were loose! Bad earth perhaps? Sure enough, tightened up, clocks back in the car - working perfectly Bulbs also working fine (I fairly and squarely blame Ralph for that waste of time and concern that something was broken)
We were going to adjust the odometer to match the old clocks but decided it was not worth the risk of damage so we took pictures for proof for the insurance company as the new odometer has a higher reading by 4k miles.

Now for the rev counter. Johnny said green and white but when I undid some loom the only green and white did not go to the fuse box but to the engine multi plug. So checked the fuse box FAQ thread and the green and white is for a 16v. According to @davidut5 (thanks David) pic above the wire is green and black. So, fuse box out to double check and sure enough G1/12 is green and black. This corresponded to what was in the loom too
Coil off, flap open, wire soldered to negative terminal.

Snipped the green and black and connected fuse box end to new wire and wa heeeyyyyyy revs!!
Made sure the connection was a removable one should we need to change the coil and wrapped the loom back up.
Got the strobe gun out and everything seems to be about right.

A pretty successful if not longwinded couple of hours. Thanks for everyone’s help

 

About the rew counter, i noticed somethimes when engine starts it goes all the way to the stop after redline. Yours does this?
Cant remember if it did with original 1.6 driver clocks, as i now have replaced for mfa.
Also the temperature gauge is half line lower than before. As far as i know both clusters were vdo.

 

Interesting, no the rev counter doesn’t do that but the temp is a little lower. We shall monitor and see if anything changes