I bought an ignition switch from VAG for the Scirocco track car - it was about 25 I think. GSF ones were about 5 or 6 quid I think. I expect they'll do the job, but I don't suppose they'll last as long as the original. As ever though, I'd advise doing more diagnosis before changing bits. You really need to look at what it's doing when it cuts out. If the dash lights are still on, it's not the ignition switch.
Thanks again for the prompt responses guys. When it cuts out, no dash lights come on. If I leave it in gear and leave it rolling straight after the cutout, the lights eventually come on but the car will not jump start. If I turn the key off and on, it will jump back in and fire up again with plenty of over fuel. |Unfortunately, my car is that loud (the way I bought it, I am contemplating getting ear defenders for the car!!!! My missus can hear me well before I get home, no sneaking back for me!!!!) you cant hear anything whilst it is rolling at speed so I wouldnt have a prayer of listening out for the fuel pump. In fairness, it would be so much easier if it just broke completely or the fault just 'disappeared!! Oh the joys!!! Gotta love this ****!!
Happy days!!, I have disconnect immob once it first happened so it is one of two!!! or maybe two!! As long as no more. I will look at the wiring, change the ignition switch and I will keep you posted. Cheers again. Much appreciated.
Hi. I was just wondering if you've got anywhere with this problem. I've had the exact same issue. Jumping rev counter and intermittent cut out. My car is a 16v Mk2, 1990 and I am sick of this sodding problem. I want to sell the car but if its going to cut out when someone takes it for a test drive i've got no chance. The engine has done 155k but pulls very well and sounds good so i'm happy its ok mechanically. The ordeal so far: Had the car diagnosed and fuel pressure was found to be fluctuating. Changed lift pump and main pump. No improvement Changed ignition switch No improvement Changed spark plugs and leads No improvement Changed fuse box All seemed well, then cut out shortly after starting it the same day Being an intermittent problem, finding the cause with a multimeter is nigh on impossible as you need it to actually cut out as you're testing. Took it to a main VW dealership and they changed the fuel pump relay but this didn't help. The main thing i've noticed is sometimes after it's cut out, the fuel pump comes on momentarily for a few seconds and then turns off again, almost like the fuel pump is getting an irratic power supply. This might explain the fuel pressure fluctuation originally diagnosed. Can anyone recommend a good auto electrician, ideally around Bristol who could fix the car. I'm done trying stuff myself now. [:^(][:^(][:^(]
UPDATE.............. Changed the Ignition Module a week ago and done the timing. I have had no issues since and it seems to be giving me a better mpg. I am hoping this has sorted the problem out now fingers crossed. Thanks for everyone's input on this and I will update if necessary, HOPEFULLY NOT THO!!!
Change the dizzy, I got mine from ebay, Retro Ignition or something like that. Mine was about 60 odd quid. That along with the ignition switch and the new HT leads, I am hoping that is the end of this nasty little problem.
Sounds promising Did you put a new or second hand ignition module in? By this do you mean the ECU. Different for 8v i guess. I'll be changing the dizzy for a new one from GSF and checking the timing. Thanks for the help. I'm determined to fix this problem and will provide full details of the fix when I do.
the pump running on shows you its not a fuel cut out causing the issue, rather the car has lost spark. the eratic rev counter is a symptom of a failed hall sensor. take the plug off it and check the connections insie are clean, then take the dizzy cap off and make sure the dizzy is not full of oil
Thanks. Have done all these things. The is some play in the rotor arm but otherwise OK. Was going to check the hall sensor but as its an erratic problem I think i'll just get a new unit to be sure. I think i'm right in saying the middle pin on the hall sensor connector controls the fuel pump too which would definately explain the connected spark/fuel pump issues. Off to GSF today. Cheers
the fuel pump is controlled entirely by the ecu, but it gets a signal from the hall sensor. it will prime the pump on 1st click of key, but will only run the pump if it sees a signal from the hall sensor not sure if the 16v hall sensor is available seperately, if it is cool have a read of this thread on how to change it, worth putting in a new seal in while you're there: clickity
No GSF, BAD!! Too expensive and they want the old unit in exchange. Scout Ebay for retro ignitions, they based in Wolverhampton. I got quick delivery at nearly half the price of GSF! Ignition controle thing sits on top of the ecu. Lift bonnet and its under the cover on left hand side in scuttle panel bit. Easiest thing to change ever!! I got one new off ebay, bitzforbikes for 12 delivered. Intermotor 15002 I think. I think the 16v one maybe the same, just get the part number off the top.
Too late [:^(] Picked up new dizzy from GSF today. About 60 so fairly happy with that. Also want it today so I can fit it at the weekend. BTW I noticed the connector to the hall sensor had been smeared with copper grease over the terminals. I guessing this is bad! I cleaned off what i could the first time i discovered this. Thanks again guys. Hopefully this will sort it.
Problem sorted. Thanks chaps Changed the dizzy, so it was either the hall sensor, rotor arm, or dizzy cap, or a combination. I've been using it whenever i can to check the problem has gone away and hasn't missed a beat. Woohoo, the Mk2 is back. Happy days.
BAD NEWS!!!!! The problem has returned and its as bad as ever!!! Changed TCI-H, Dizzy and Hall Sensor, leads and spark plugs!! I dont know what to do now. It was running fine for a month and now its cutting out again!! Any further suggestions as its doing my head in!! Cheers again
go back thru and recheck everything, let us know the results. in particular do you hear fuel pump run on for a bit after car cuts, and do the dash warning lights come on? does the car immediately restart no bother? a spare ecu might be nice to try, and i'd change the spark controller too, thats the 7 pin thing above the ecu
Check that the little electrical contacts are correctly located in the hall sender plug (the wiring that connects to the dizzy). I've seen those work lose and cause intermittent running problems. It's not all that likely, but it's quick to check and free to fix. After that, run the car at idle, and get under the bonnet and start wiggling wires around to see if you can replicate the problem. You could have a break in a wire that's losing connection as the engine moves around.
I am going to have to go thru everything again! Re fuel pump - When the car is rolling iall i can hear is road noise so the only way of checking to see if the pump runs on is to hope it does it whilst stationary. This always happens on the motorway. The dash lights - they do come on but only after about 2-5 seconds after it cuts out. If i put it in neutral then back into gear, it will only restart after I have turned the key off and on again. It restarts no bother first time everytime! I have changed the spark controller to a new intermotor one a month ago and with all other changes, a month problem free. Since it started again I have put a spare ecu and another spark thing (the one that came with ecu) still same problems. I will tell you also that whilst driving, sometimes it will jolt/jerk like a cough. Not loads of coughs, just one. When that happens the revs jerk as well. I will try and film it but its intermittant and prob not advisable on motorway!!
I will be on it this weekend!! Got to be worth a go, nothing to lose!! To be fair, re engine moving, my engine mounts are shot!!
