hi all, got a problem with my aussie mk2 The car doesnt have any spark. She has fuel battery is charged (tho i did have to jump start it) engine turns and i am getting fuel into the cylinders. I am not getting any spark. if i take a plug out, I get a single spark when i turn on the ignition but when i goto crank i get no spark. I have fitted a new coil and tried another dizzy but no luck. i am getting voltage into the coil plus i am getting the single spark when you turn on the ignition. Thinking this may be a blown ECU if this is the case i will have to buy one from the uk cos they are rocking horse dodo here! Any other thoughts? many thanks Velly
what engine and managment is it? next step try another TCI unit, and check you get 12v across pins 4 (ign live from coil + pin) and 2 (earth to battery) if its a 1.8 16v check the earth to the head is ok also check the hall sender: 16v ignition tests: TCI-H unit - testing 1 The switch unit is located in the left-hand side of the plenum chamber beneath a plastic cover. The ignition coil should be in good condition before making this test. 2 Depress the wire clip and pull the connector from the switch unit. 3 Connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2 on the connector then switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage is available. Switch off the ignition. 4 Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminal 1 on the connector and terminal 1 on the coil. 5 Refit the connector to the switch unit, then connect a voltmeter across the low tension terminals on the coil. 6 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit, then switch on the ignition. Check that initially a reading of 2 volts is registered on the voltmeter, dropping to zero after one to two seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and also if necessary, the ignition coil. 7 Using a temporary length of wire, briefly earth terminal 12 on the connector. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit. ECU - testing 1 Test the TCI unit before checking the control unit. 2 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit located in the right-hand side of the plenum chamber. 3 Switch on the ignition, then use a voltmeter to check that battery voltage is available between terminals 3 and 5 on the connector. 4 Check also that battery voltage is available between terminals 6 and 3, then operate the throttle valve switch and check that the voltage drops to zero. Switch off the ignition. 5 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the connector terminals 1 to 3. These are the temperature sender terminals and the resistance varies according to the coolant temperature. 6 Press the clip and pull the connector from the side of the distributor. Connect the voltmeter to the two outer terminals of the connector, then switch on the ignition. A reading of 5 volts should be registered. Switch off the ignition. Hall Sender - testing Note: A digital multi-meter should be used for testing. Do not use a test lamp 1. Release the lead connector from the Hall sender unit. Check the voltage supply to the sender unit by connecting a multi-meter between pin 1 and 3 of the hall sender plug, then switch on the ignition. A minimum reading of 5 volts should be indicated, if not check the FEI control unit and wiring. 2. To check the signal from the Hall sender unit, slide the rubber grommet away from the sender plug and with the plug connected, attach the diode test light to its centre and outer (brown/white) terminals. Operate the starter motor and check that the LED is seen to flicker. If it does not, the Hall sender unit is at fault and must be renewed. *********************************** 8v carb/k-jet: TCI-H switch unit: 1 When making this test, the coil must be in good condition. 2 Remove the plastic cover on the right-hand side of the plenum chamber for access to the switch unit. 3 Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2. 4 Switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage, or slightly less, is available. If not, there is an open-circuit in the supply wires. 5 Switch off the ignition and reconnect the multi-plug to the switch unit. 6 Pull the multi-plug from the Hall sender on the side of the distributor, then connect a voltmeter across the +ve and -ve terminals on the coil. 7 Switch on the ignition and check that there is initially 2 volts, dropping to zero after 1 to 2 seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and coil. 8 Using a length of wire, earth the centre terminal of the distributor multi-plug briefly. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If not, there is an open-circuit or the switch unit is faulty. 9 Switch off the ignition and connect the voltmeter across the outer terminals of the distributor multi-plug. 10 Switch on the ignition and check that 5 volts is registered on the voltmeter. 11 If a fault still exists, renew the switch unit. 12 Switch off the ignition, remove the voltmeter and reconnect the distributor multi-plug. Hall sensor: 1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly. 2 The coil and TCI-H unit must both be in good condition. 3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth it to the engine or bodywork. 4 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3. 5 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between 0 and a minimum of 2 volts. If not, the sender is faulty and must be renewed.
the hall/tci tests are still valid, but the ecu is for the 16v so you'll need to check the pb diagramsd to figure out where the hall sender pins go to on the ecu connector. its the last one in the haynes
ok, here is an update, tried a new ignition amp, that hasnt fixed it. borrowed a ECU off MAtt (Camden GTI Performance) but that gives spark on ignition 2 but not on crack (ignition3) I think this ecu had a different part number. All electrics have checked out ok, the car is currently with Tim (golfworx) so i know its in good hands. so i am looking to borrow a ecu with these details 261 200 294 or Digifant II 037 906 022 M i will happly buy it off you if anyone has one of these cheers velly
any digi2 ecu will work, dont worry about different part numbers. check ignition switch next, maybe itas not giving a good coil live feed when cranking
ok next step is check all the feeds to the ecu both with ign on and cranking, where is the hazard switch, dash or column?
ok, to start with make sure the ecu relay #30 clicks with the ignition, its in slot 3. ecu feeds: 1 - starter motor live 3 - fuel pump relay (earth trigger) 4 - knock sensor pin 1 5 - knock sensor pin 2 7 - knock sensor pin 3 6 - hall sender pin 1, afm pin 4, ecu temp sender pin 2, throttle switches (sensor common earth) 8 - hall sender pin 3 9 - afm pin 1 10- ecu temp sensor pin 1 11- throttle switches 12- fuel injectors (earth) 13- earth to battery 14- ecu relay (power feed for ecu) 17- afm pin 3 18- hall sender pin 2 19- earth to head 21- afm pin 2 22- isv pin 1 23- isv pin 3 25 - to tci unit pin 6 (spark trigger) tci unit: 1 - coil pin 1 (coil trigger) 2 - earth to battery 4 - coil pin 15 (ignition live) 6 - ecu pin 25 (spark trigger)
Hey Velly, Im in Brisbane with a very similar problem... So Im going to tack onto this thread in anticipation for something new Rubjohnny has been helping n another thread and I've been following his lead. It's been very helpful info and Im sure it's all worth checking and tidying the wiring The real frustration for me is not having any diagnostics on hand to ensure ECU is all good and no fault codes. Some observations: Starting with the crank. * We have replaced the original crank sensor with a new one, and then checked resistance across pins 2 and 3 passively it reports 22Mega Ohms and I bought a new one and checked and it too was high in the 20M Ohm range. So where we "thought" the CPS was faulty and something was making them to fail, turns out that was wrong * All the information I have read indicates that the ECU can send ignition signal off the crank. Also "limp mode" will spark off the crank and the 3000rpm stutter problems seems to be associated with it too. So even if the hall sensder were to be the problem, we should have ignition. Coil * We have replaced the coil. Checked Ground, Supply and will next check to see if ECU is good. Havent changed leads, but as many report, when key tuns to ignition before crank many report getting a s"weak" park. I too saw one "ONCE" and assume it was by chance that rotor was on cyl1. I need to check the other three cylinder plugs to confirm this nis true or I best check my rotor and dizzy again. I am assuming that our ECU is booting and signalling or it's as Gafunked as your one is and it's just a short on the pins at boot interpreted as a signal.... ECU * I havent cleaned or messed with the ECU much at all. It's the grey zone, cant see anything but have to assume it's working as like you, where the .... am I going to find one of these + the immobiliser. I work with computers and this is like solving problems without a monitor! So frustrationg. * The Fuel pump "IS" working and all info lends itself to be triggered by ECU. It's a bit like religious belief. Note: Need to look into ECU relay, ECU power and grounds. * Aussie Issue: With the engine change, switching to Megasquirt might not conform and give me headaches trying to get it over the pits? * So many people all reporting the same problem is no longer a coincidence and perhaps the ECU's are all failing at the same life-time? * Need a more modern ECU solution. Anyways.. still searching. BTW.. Is this a 16V or a 8v? If 8v then I may be looking in the wrong areas of ECu and Engine as mine is a ABF conversion.
