mk2 vr6 12v to vr6 24v worth it or not?

Discussion in 'VR5, VR6 & Wx' started by MARRKUSZ, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. MARRKUSZ Forum Member

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    hi guys sorry if I have threaded in the wrong part.
    I have been looking at the 24v vr6 conversion from a mk4 4motion and wanted to know if its worth is or not and if theres any difference from 12v to 24v I know that the 24v is 205bhp and my 12v atm is 210 at the fly. also can you do more with the 24v and how hard is it to wire the engine loom to a ce2 fusebox ive seen some printouts on the net for where the wires go ect. also is there any one that can make a plug and play loom.
    I know the 12v vr6 coolant system, gearbox clutch fly all bolt up and you have fab the fbw pedal to the mk2/mk3 pedal box its just the wiring that worries me as i just about wiried the 12v vr6 to the mk2 lol.

    cheers mark.
     
  2. benthejettaman Forum Member

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    its deffinatly worth it, 30 bhp may not sound like much but the motor has a lot more torque lower down and is a lot livlier engine

    as for wiring then its no differant to wiring up a dbw 1.8t which rubjonny has a good guide for on here
     
  3. MARRKUSZ Forum Member

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    ok

    o right so what about the other wires do you just butcher the old 12v vr6 loom and slice in the 24v loom.
    cheers mark.
     
  4. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    For the 24V motor there are two types.

    The non Twin VVTI AUE and the later BDE VVTI
    Best to get the loom that come with the engine and integrate to the Golf 2 supply.

    Worth it? Well yes and no.
    If you are choosing between a 3.0 12v and a 24v BDE, then I would say the BDE.
    Your current engine will be more torquey as the 3.0, so depending on how the response was mapped in, the smaller engine will never match this, not even with a best custom calibration.
     
  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Why not pop down to the Club GTI dyno day we have on the 23rd and see what it really does and compare to the others?
     
  6. MARRKUSZ Forum Member

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    hmm sounds like a plan.

    yh mine had 84mm pistons fitted 2 years back along with skimmed block n head also had the pistons drilled so the valves didn't hit.
    268 cams and 641 manifold and was mapped and dynode at 210 at the fly and 169.9 at the wheels.
    since then I have fitted a short inlet runner on the intention to go turbo later on.
    also getting a few little probs atm I.E I have replaced the lambda and crank sensors as they were coming up as faults and then fault codes keep popping up even with new parts fitted :/
    also fitted an afr gauge and noticed its running lean at low rpm and rich at high rpm so not sure what's going on until i get more money to get it back on the dyno and mapped again hence why i was looking at the 24v VR and start from fresh and a bit more modern.


    cheers for the info.
    mark.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    would the 24v head fit the vr6 bottom end? if so would be best of both then, mod the loom as per the oem mk4 thread and away you go. though you would have to install a toyotec into the passenger seat to get the best out of it ;)

    failing that if it was me I would be eyeing up r32 engines, though the price premium over a 24v engine would be high I expect.
     
  8. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Unfortunately 24v bottom ends have a different deck surface compared to the 12v units.

    R32 VR6 engines carry a scene tax premium, where as 2.8 24v motors can be picked up for peanuts. Probably less ragged too.

    However in this case as the owner has a 3.0 12v, with uprated parts, I cannot see any benefits of fitting a smaller std 2.8 24v. Maybe you could come close to 215bhp@6400 with some tuning of the ECU, but the maximum torque will be much less than a 3.0 12v.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2014
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    bugger that idea out the window then, he should just install a toyotec then rather than a new engine ;)
     
  10. AjVR Forum Member

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    Personally if your going turbo id stick with the 12V if you have a good base to work from,

    Unless your going to need every last little bit of power, otherwise you will easily be able to get a "sensible" amount from the 12V.

    12V parts tend to be cheaper also, inlet , valves, cams etc.
     
  11. MARRKUSZ Forum Member

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    hi guys ive managed to sort out the old girl now with some new big end shells I had a friend look at the crank for me and he said it wasn't damaged :) also replaced the knackered thermostat.
    changed oil n coolant. now seems to run nice still running lean thoe as the plugs a white so could do with a proper mapping at some point and yh I have a friend running a 2.8 12v turbo at 7psi producing 300hp n 300ft so I thing ile stick with the 12v and go turbo at some point as he took me out in it and I couldn't believe how quick it was the sound of a vr and a turbo was mental.

    cheer guys for all the info :)
    mark.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2014

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