ok here we go. i have got a mk2 8v gti (later spec with the hazard switch on the steering wheel. I have managed to get my hands on a mk3 golf vr6 engine,subframe,front subframe where the front engine mount is fitted (dont know what its called),calipers,hubs, steering rack,arb and drive shafts (think thats everything), i know there are a few bits i still need but for the price i couldnt say no. I am not going for the wide track so not using the drive shafts. just gonna fit the calipers as i was told they would fit on the stadard hubs. i know i need an ecu,wiring loom,fuel pump,cable shifter and pedal box but what else would i need to fit this to my car? never tried anything like this so any help/advice will be massively appreciated. cheers neil
The front brace that holds the front engine mount is called the 'cross member' matie However that mk3 one is no good too you as it does not fit! The vr6 conversion is now really affordable and can quite easily done by a competent mechanic, mainly plug and play...plugs in...bolts up. Lots of step by step forums to help on here, vwvortex, mk2vr6.com etc.. answers to your questions No wide track then bolt your original wishbones to the mk3 subframe, 8v driveshafts work. mk2 16v / g60 hubs allow you to fit vr6 calipers/carriers +280mm g60 4stud discs fuelling is ok as the mk2 gti/16v has two fuel pumps. ECU/ wiring loom make sure you get the correct setup for your engine. usually upto 95 is obd1 and 96 on obd2. G60 or vr6 passat/corrado pedal box. Fit the mk3 hubs only if you want 5 stud. Anti roll bar needs trimming down at both the ends too fit as its slightly wider. I use a G60 one on mind A decent front engine mount, corrado rad and twin fans and a custom decat pipe to match your system. cant think of anything else...
For the front cross-member either use a Coraddo VR one or find a Passat VR verison and fit the upper section to your mk2 one, making it the same as the Coraddo setup. You could use the link below my sig as some idea, certainly worth a read (the bottom link, not the 24v one). It shows how to swap the Passat to mk2 cross-member sections over.
thats the one. just couldnt remember what it was called lol. so which crossmember would i need to get? looks like it shouldnt be too hard to do then (yeah right lol). im sure i could get a couple of my techie mates to give me a hand to get it in a running lol neil
you had posted it before i refreshed the page so i didnt know you had wrote that lol. good old technology eh haha.looks like ill be doing a bit of ringing round for a corrado crossmember tomorrow. have you got any ideas where i might find one and roughly how much they are? your thread is great by the way, just had a quick read and i can assure you ill be wrking through it when fitting mine lol. how did you find the vr lump compared to your old one? neil
8v to VR was obviously a massive power gain and I enjoyed it. The noise is immense, no engine sounds like it, and you'll find people turn their heads to look when you give it some stick...Only reason I went for a newer engine was becuase I wanted more reliabilty and a bit more oomph - you get used to what you have after a given time. A VR mk2 is plenty quick enough mind. Search ebay for "vr6 breaking", ticking the "search title and description" checkbox. In my experiance, it's been cheaper to buy the entire car and use all the parts required, then sell the excess.
VR noise is imense! Everyone who's been in my car loves the noise and the way the engine goes Even local barry boys love the noise and the flame it tends to pop on full boot
sorry to be stupid again but have just been looking at more guides on the best way and easiest way of putting the engine in and found something about using the origional mk2front crossmember "Regardless of which setup you use i would suggest using new engine mounts, and poly-bushing every bush. You will also need to remove 15-20mm off the height of the rear engine mount to make sure it clears the bonnet. The front subframe from the mk2 is fine to use, however i would suggest replacing the rubber bushes with poly varieties, and of course you will need to change the front mount to something more substantial. There is no reason why you cant use a solid mount, although i chose the vibra-technics option, around 130 direct."(found here http://www.dubscene.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=74) im only asking because im trying to use as many of the origional parts as i can. I dont intend to change the clocks or anything so you would think it was a standard car from the outside. neil
All well and good, but nobody is going to see the cross-member anyway and once you've beaten the 5hit out of the chassis leg and bulk-head, who's really going to care if it has an original mk2 cross-member? It'll work out cheaper if you can find a Raddo/Passat breaker which will come with the right engine mount in the correct place (although I recommend replacing with new anyway), found for around 20-30 from breakers. I've done a mk2 where the owner wanted to use his mk2 mount, and it deffo does not line up 100% on standard mounts.
ok cool. i just want to make sure thats all. never atttempted anything like this so i just wanna make sure I got everything all sorted and I know what im doing before i start lol. I really do appreciate all your input. just hope i dont seem to annoying with my questions lol. neil
What bits have you got? If you haven't bought anything, buy a whole rusted out/crashed car....it'll end up an almost cost-free conversion that way.
everything I have got is from a mk3 golf vr6. i have got the engine and ancillaries, gearbox, subframe, hubs (which im not using)calipers, steering rack, arb, drive shafts, crossmember. I know i need a engine harness and ecu ( any suggestions of where to get one from apart from ebay lol) neil
Stevens VW breakers would have what you needed, but they charge through the earth...here's where buying a total car or pulling what you need from a breaker is advantagous. You can either take what you need and sell the excess to counteract the conversion cost (ie make it almost free of charge with a VR). Or, if buying the whole car isn't an option, you pull exactly what you need from the same car, preferably heard running beforehand, so you have the lot. Imagine building up your mk2 only to find the bottom end is knocking like hell, or your chains rattling like a crack head with no fix...
I didnt have the space to buy a donor car and strip down what i need . that would have been the best idea for me but i just couldnt. thats why you can see why i am trying to use as much of the original car that i can lol. neil
i'ver got a mk3 16v subframe which you can have for free, but you'll have to drill out one of the wishbone bolts as it's snapped off inside.
thanks for the offer but i have already got the vr subframe. was just the crossmember that i need. just started to strip the subframe down so i can clean it up and re paint it.ph the joys of getting dirty lol
