Hi all, I have just completed the mk3 alternator and pas conversion on my kr. I got the complete kit off a mk3 2.0 and everything has bolted up nice all the pulleys etc. But there is way too much misalignment between the crank pulley and the pas pulley and the crank pulley and water pump/alternator: the crank pulley is approx 5mm too far towards the wheel. I have checked and it is completely seated against the crank timing pulley so it's as though it has the wrong dimensions or I need to machine some off. Anyone any thoughts? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Cheer RJ, I was coming to conclusion I needed to do some machining. Is the Abf one a different dimension to the kr then? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
the problem is the 16v engines use thicker timing belt and sprockets, so when you try to fit an 8v pulley it pokes out too far. this is why you need the mk3 16v pulley to convert a kr/9a/ace/6a/etc engine
RJ do I need to worry about the concentricity when I machine the ~6mm off the pulley? When I machine the material off, i will lose the centring hole which goes over the crank timing pulley bolt. Appreciate your opinion Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
the bolts will help you get it pretty close, could turn up some thin sleeves to get the wobble out of the bolt holes or weld the middle back in after shaving it down. Ideally get a proper abf pulley if you can though
Cheers Jonny. I had a chat with a mate at work and we decided that boring a ledge in the centre and using a sleeve will be best. We are going to turn it by clamping on the belt surface that way it should all be concentric. Basically like this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4649716-FS-Modified-ABA-Crank-Pulley-for-16v-Serpentine
generally easier to get spares for, loads of mk3s you can raid in scrappy but bugger all mk2s. the alternators start at 70a, and mu8ch easier to get 90, 120, 150 or even higher with mk3 setup (mk4 alts fit the mk3 bracket which has a tensioner wheel) the pas tensioning setup is simpler and again easier to get bits for
yeah if its all ok no reason to convert really, the oem alternator works great. the pas system is ok too if everything is good, but the eye bolt can seize up and prone to damage if someone has tried to adjust it in the past and missed the hidden pivot bolt
Yes if all ok I'm not sure it's worth it?!?! Saying that though my car is a hobby so job creation is good anyway!
I think the mk3 set up looks way better but main reason for me is future proofing: mk3 set up sits lower which will be better for independent throttle bodies. Also my mk2 one had a few cracks in it and the 12v stud snapped of when I removed it so I bit the bullet and bought the conversion. Serpentine belt as well so should be quieter than the v belt on the mk2 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Got it sorted chaps: 5.3mm off the face of the pulley then bored out to 35.50mm, 5mm deep. Phosphor Bronze (just some surplus billet i found) spacer ring turned to 35.58 OD, 30.05 ID, 4.95 depth gentle press fit into the pulley (<1 Ton) with a sliding fit on the timing pulley bolt and washer. Really pleased with the result and learnt a new skill on the lathe. all lines up perfect!
