Folks , bit of future planning advice sought. I've a tidy wee mk2 1992 CE2 Pasadena , that I'll be putting something either tdi or big block petrol into in the coming year , and a scrapper Vento n/a diesel. Am I better to fit the Vento loom complete into the Golf, will this make wiring in say an ABF or an AAZ or the likes easier than using the mk2 loom? It's just that I'll be stripping out the interior of the mk2 to clean it, and the Vento will be sent to the scrappy ASAP. Thanks in advance.
When we put in the AHU from the MK3 TDI into madhair's MK2: we used the MK2 engine bay loom from the MK3 with the lighting side removed. Mk2 lighting loom. Mk3 rear loom to fuel tank with plugs on rear lights swapped. MK2 dash loom. Couple of jumpers to add but reasonably simple. Either fusebox works as they're identical, use all the MK3 relays Sam
no need to change the interior or lighting looms if the mk2 ones are ok, you'll just need to combine the mk2 engine loom with the donor engine loom and refit. if any parts of the mk2 loom are damaged some of the mk3 wires can be used to repair, the stalk and ign switch looms are the same for example. the dash loom is pretty different but could be used for repair work, rear looms similar but again some differences. lighting loom you could swap over from the mk3 if you like, they have a handy round plug which allows the slam panel wiring to split off from the main section easily so that is a nice thing to have in a mk2. plus all the mk3 wires are sealed so will be in tip top condition (if not bodged) unlike mk2 which may be a bit crusty at the ends. up to you really, make a judgement and see. if you're scrapping the vento anyway no harm in having all the wiring out regardless, worst case if it doesnt get used could weigh it in for the copper edit good pint above about the jumpers use the MK3 golf plug D and jumper blocks in the mk2 very handy for adding extras! also the jumper between 30 and 30b is nice on the mk3 as again has jumpers on so handy if your Y spades are all full like mine
cheers guys! I was thinking the mk3 loom would be better quality , I've heard guys say they had brighter headlights in a mk2 after fitting a mk3 loom!
yeah main thing about mk3 looms is its newer and as I say the wires are all fully waterproof unlike mk2! The quality of the wires themselves improved over the age of mk2 production as more modern thinwall wiring came in but its more a reduction of bulk and an improvement on insulation quality rather than better wiring itself as at the end of the day its still copper! 90spec mk2 loom overall isnt much different from early-ish mk3 golf I found when comparing as they're only a few years apart but the MK2 lighting looms all suffer a great deal when compared to mk3 thanks to the use of open non-sealed connectors all over. the 90spec looms are an improvement over pre-90 as they have at least replaced several connectors with waterproof types but still a fair few non-sealed ones kicking about unfortunatly the difference in a MK1 GTI loom compared to a proper late cabrio loom is pretty massive the wires are all much thinner as the insulation technology has come on a long way in that time
Is there any way or eliminating the unsealed ends John? when the Mk4 loom goes in my Mk2, I will have to put Mk2 plugs on certain things (lights etc)
I've got rid of most of them in mine, the 90spec has proper JT plugs for the horn, indicators and sidelights so those are all sorted. the fan plug is another unsealed plug but I just did away with that one, all it means is you can no longer remove the fan, rad and loom as 1 unit instead you have to snip the cable tie and unplug the fan and thermoswitch before you can lift it out. you could try to find a sealed connector for this, theres a big 2 pin one used on the SAI pumps in the MK4 that would be suitable I recon theres another lot up near the scuttle where the fog lights and side repeater looms join the main section, fogs I ran to the MK3 round plug as above so that did away with that one, the sidelights I was going to run direct but the MK3 wires didnt reach plus it would have made removing the lighting loom a bit of a git so I just put the mk2 connectors back on. tbh they dont suffer from corrosion so much as they're tucked up pretty well. the main ones you're left with are the H4 plugs, and so far I have not found an acceptable solution for sealing them! I did see some sealed ones on ebay but they're supplied with wire pigtails not pins and I dont know if the genuine AMP pins I use would fit in the housings. one solution could be to fill the back of the connectors with silicone to seal them but that would still leave the fronts, they do kinda seal to the rubber backing caps on the lights mind. What I'd really like is to find/make a cap that fits on the back of the hella lamps with a male JT socket on like you see on modern lights but TBH, if you fit a relay lighting loom its not a massive issue really you could just replace the relay -> H4 wires every 10 years or so
I plan on using the MK4 loom, and run the dipped beam feed to the H4-low. Then the wires to the high beam to the H4-high. And then a relay to the H3 spot lamps. Front fogs as per MK4 but down low. IE a total MK4 loom (every single bit) but with MK2 plugs grafted on for the necessities
yeah basically what I have done only using the mk4 loom! the mk4 fog/dip/indicator etc wires all end up in the same 10 pin plug near the headlight, what I would do is try to get the male side of this plug and run that to all your lights etc, that way the 'fusebox' side of the plug remains waterproof regardless of what happens up on the slam panel end. plus it'll also kinda be like mk3 in that you can unplug everything on the slam panel in 2 places rather than having to dig about to unplug each light individually
Exactamenti! I have the headlights from the donor, will just take the connector junction off the back of the lamp with all the pigtails attached. I might seal the part that used to be inside the headlamp up somehow in a little box or something to keep it dry and make it look tidy. then run the appropriate wires and connectors to each individual lamp.
if you want the actual plug instead early mk4s use them for the engine -> ecu join, plus actually I think the headlight looms may actually have the male plug as well and then run off to wherever? cant remember. You have the donor though I assume so you'll figure it out I'm sure
There is a 3x3" square place attached to the back of the lamp, which now I think of it, has the male side of the plug you're right. And they are sealed. So happy days, just extend the 5" spot beam wires and fog wires and a bit of chopping and changing. No point in relaying Mk4 loom wires right?
You will probably be ok, as the MK4 switches etc in the dash will be a lot newer than the mk2 units one of the other reasons for volt drop in the mk2 apart from crusty wires is the fact power for the lamps goes fusebox -> headlight switch -> fusebox -> stalk -> fusebox -> lights. after 20 years or so the switches start to get a bit grotty inside and you loose a bit of power thru em
Jesus that's too many junctions. Our lecturer keeps banging on about voltage drop and I can see why! That much distance is no good. Have you any tips on removing a Mk4 loom complete? I tried removing the one from a TDI '99 I have sitting in the yards as practise and was a huge pain!!
I haven't had the pleasure but I know its going to be a massively fun experience for you thats for sure I've only seen them once out of the car so cant really offer much help I'm afraid!
