Hi, long time no visit (sold the mk2 ABf and have a 954 fireblade). Hope you're all well, Rubjonny, Danster etc My mk4 golf v5 170 2 door 2002 golf. The driver door developed a locking problem (no buzzer for leaving lights on) and I found this to be the microswitch, which I managed to repair. When I put all this back together, a new problem came: The driver door will not physically lock using the fob or the key in the door. Now, the fob works fine and the passenger door locks fine. The driver locks make all the right noises (first is a quieter movement and if pressed again a louder more "engaging" sound). I'm pretty sure it is how I have put the mechanism back together but just can't figure it. After I have pressed the lock fob once, the door doesn't lock and if I open the door, the alarm fires. Same again if I press the lock fob twice. Any ideas? Comfort control module under the dash? HELP!
oh balls. Do you mean the mechanical part of the module? If so, can this be stripped down to have an attempt at fixing at all?
as you say it may just be the way you put it back together i got a good second hand one when mine went
I took it all apart again earlier. Mine has 4 microswitches inside the electrical side, two actioned by the key and two actioned by the main lever in the middle, however, this main lever also pivots which is switched back by the movement of the key. It's hard to explain with out pictures and I have only seen images of the innards where there are just three microswitches inside. If that makes sense to anyone.
another thing actually is that the locked indicator pin is a lot lower than it was and now when locked it sits indented down in the trim by a few mm
Mine is like this one actually. the center movement can go on an angle and hit the third micro along.
how does it actually "lock"? How does it pass it from the electrical module to the mechanical part, other than the main shaft inside the electrical part? What actually triggers the mech part to lock and stop the handle from doing anything? Is it the exterior part that the "locked plunger" is also triggered from?
bloody complicated wee beasties these, I stripped one down just to take a look and i wish i hadn't, it took me ages to put back together and i have no idea if its actually right vagcom is what you need when diagnosing these things, go into the comfort module and read the measuring blocks to check what the lock module is reporting at various positions. Do this when you have the new one plugged into the loom but before you actually fit it to the door so you can test that it actually works any better than the old one/before the lock has 3 positions, 'open', 'locked' and 'safe' open is obviously opened, locked means the door cannot be opened from the outside and the pin is down but if you pull the internal handle the door can be opened. safe is as above but the door cannot be opened from the inside either, it has to get into 'safe' before the alarm will beep. it sounds liek the internal mech isnt put back together quite right, if it wont lock or get into 'safe'
you would need to check the manual for it, most dont seem to be able to do this though. if not all you need is a laptop and a 10 vagcom usb cable off ebay in vagcom you need to connect to the locking/convenience module then go into the measuring blocks, scan thru and you can see all the inputs tio the module in real time. lock, unlock and open each door and you'll see the status for safe/locked/open as you play next time do this just with the replacement/rebuilt module plugged into the door harness, then you can check it before you fully rebuild the door!
