MK4 Golf fast road/track car. Dyno results! pg12.

Would it not be worth setting up another account?

 

Thankyou HPR. Appreciate the info. I guess im just eager to find out what I could do engine wise. I feel like a little kid with a new toy lol
suspension, brakes and tyres will always come first. Im in no rush and like you say, 210, if it is, is plenty enough for me right now.

 

This is so true it's unreal!

As a road car, mine had 220bhp, and it felt FAST at the time. It felt like the chassis was on it's limit power wise, and couldn't handle any more. but teh car as a whole drove well.

I went down the chassis and brakes route first, upgrading everything, tweaking geometry, experimenting with tyres and things, and after about 18 months, I got to a point where it felt like the chassis was far more capable than the engine that propelled it, and I felt like I was getting close to the best from the car.

I upped power to 270bhp at that point, and it felt like the handling and power were nicely inline, but fairly soon it became apparent that the brakes were no longer up to the job. it was also pretty clear that the driver required a bit more development with the added power, as on my first ring trip since the conversion (my 10th trip there) I binned it in a big way and almost wrote the car off!

I rebuilt the car, improved brakes, and continued with my ongoing suspension development, and after almost a year, I got to that point where I felt the car could benefit from a bit more power, so built a new engine and unleashed the full capability of my turbo and took it to 350bhp. Then had to learn to drive it all over again! And you guessed it, I needed more brakes again!

I think if I'd jumped straight to the full 350 from the off I'd have really struggled to get to grips with it.

I'd ALMOST go so far as to say the car was more fun at 220bhp, because you could use more of the power, more of the time. With 360bhp now the way it builds speed is pretty ballistic, and there are very few places on the road that you can open it up, and when you can it's a quick blast to the top of 3rd and you're done, which makes it very hard to fully get to grips with it legally, anywhere but on a race track!

Apologies if we're preaching to the converted, but I think it's well worth saying for the benefit of anyone else reading this who isn't sure which way to go

Really looking forward to seeing this one develop If we're ever at any trackdays together feel free to jump in for a passenger lap to see what you think

 

Indeed , ive seen it so much in racing were ``Gentlemen drivers`` who start racing in a Porsche with way to much power...
( nowadays these cars are far more forgiving than years ago ) and they really get scared in it, they brake way too early...
never find a proper rithem as its all going way to fast to cope, (yes its ballistic) dont drive proper lines , etc
and often they needed many seasons before they became good and fast as a driver.
Those that started racing in moderate power fwd cup cars as Clio/ Yaris get much earlier to grips... once they master to drive these cars at the limit ... they cope with everything out there !

 

One of the best bits of advice I've seen on a forum.

Not only that, but once you get the suspension, brakes and drive-train sorted it will be able to take more power rather than spit you off in an explosion of understeer.

 

Slightly off topic, but have a go with the Night Wave Light app (Apple/Android). It is a free software version of the NightWave LED box which can be too bright and costs 50 +P&P

Worth grabbing in case NightWave ever wise up and sell their own paid app version.

 

@ Prawn, thats not preaching, thats giving great and honest imformation and advice. Its very much appreciated mate

All the info so far has been great. Thankyou

I went over to VRS in Northampton today and ordered the forge 0800 dv. The guy had a quick look in the engine bay as I thought the turbo was making a funny noise. Turbo chatter as he called it. Turns out one of the pipes on the oe valve had come off.
Anyway, put it back on and its made quite a bit off difference in the way it pulls. Quite surprising really. Been a long time since I have owned a petrol turbo. My last one was a 57 plate s3 about 4 years ago. Sold that and bought a 320d m sport lol
Also had a chat about a miltec exhaust and de cat pipe, forge intercooler and, for now, a k&n panel filter. Will then have it re mapped to suit but obviously keeping it around the 210 mark. In all honesty, its enough for me right now. Advice taken Also, when the time comes, I think 270ish will be more than enough for a road/track car.
Brakes, suspension, arbs etc are all on the cards, but for now will just replace brake fluid and pads. Maybe discs too as I think they are the cheap nasty things lol Tyres also, current ones are defo sh@#e nasty things that shouldnt be on any car

And Prawn, Yes please! Would love to jump in for a passenger lap sometime

Im sure, when the time comes, I will be seeing some of you on these track days, mainly as im being lapped several times by yourselves lol

Thanks again for all the info lads, much appreciated. Will keep this thread updated as and when

 

Just down loaded it. Will give it a go

Sometimes take Nytol but makes me drowsy the following day. Im dopey enough as it is! lol

 

On another note, I was talking to the guy at VRS about brakes too. He suggested using porsche 986 front calipers with adapters and retain my 312 discs. Apparently the porsche pads have a larger surface area, making them pretty much as good as cupra r calipers.
The porche calipers look like being a cheaper alternative to the cupra r ones too, which seem to have incured some scene tax lol

Has anyone gone the porsche caliper route?

 

I've seen a few Boxter rears going on fronts but that's it

 

Get on copart.co.uk and buy a cat d or c. Nick the parts you need and weigh it in. Ebay sellers want 350 for those calipers alone!! You could probably buy a car for less albeit smashed up a bit but if you choose right and make sure the areas you need are free from damage. Then when your done either get 150 from the scrap Man or keep stripping it off and sell the other good parts.

http://www.copart.co.uk/c2/homeSearch.html?_eventId=getLot&execution=e6s1&lotId=28946964&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS

 

Smithy you bad boy I'm going to want to buy more cars know lol

 

been there. tried that

for a road car, where you want a car that'll stop, with brakes that look nice and shiney, they're great.

For any sort of meaningful track use - nope. Not really much good at all.

The problem with brakes on these cars isn't stopping power, it's heat management. For outright stopping power alone, DS3000's on stock 312's offer plenty of power. but the 312 x 25mm discs simply can't cope with the heat generated by anything more than about 5 minutes on track. The porsche calipers are good, but the pads arn't actually that big, if any bigger than stock I don't think.

Also, they don't cover the full swept area on a 312mm disc, as seen here:



I can't find any pics at the mo, because nobody takes pics when their brakes look crap, but after a while you end up with a nice brown band of rust where the pads do not sweep.

 

Looks like 15% of disc surface isn't being used it's the inner edge so has less braking effect but will make a difference

 

Not entirely sure on Mk4 compatability but I'll be selling my 4 pot Wilwood Superlights soon with carriers to fit Mk2/Corrado if that's of any interest.

 

Just tried to buy a 20v but need to sort out account first
You bad bad boy
It's your fault not mine lol

 

I might have them if the price is right

 

Please make sure that you do not put Boxster rear calipers on the front of your Golf. It is down right dangerous. It is total internet bull, I got caught up in it and tried it, absolutely the worst brakes ever, no stopping power, my rear brakes were nearly on fire. The pistons in the Boxster rears are simply way too small. I then went out and bought some brand new Boxster front calipers, they worked fine, but not as good as I thought they would be, so I'd say get something better.

If you're starting with handling then get yourself the front end off an Mk1 Audi TT, Golf R32, Seat LCR, to include the subframe, wishbones, steering rack and hubcarriers. Makes a big difference to the Golf. Also get yourself some better front top mounts, the originals are so crap. If you're willing to take a little extra noise then get solid adjustable ones, improves the steering feel dramatically.

Best coilovers I ever ran on my Golf were Sachs Race Engineering. Sublime damping control, firm but not harsh on the road. Only lowered the car about 25mm, but thats enough. 20way damping adjustment to.

 

Straight from the horses mouth