Hello, folks! Car info - mk4 2001 - 66kw - 1J5 My car's trunk switch doesn't work for a while now. And I know that it's not the microswitches or motors fault because I have spare parts of everything bacause I recently changed the trunk itself. (And yes it didn't work before I changed the trunk) Only weird thing that my old trunk actuator motor (I hope I said it right) has melted plastic gears inside which indicates that maybe that guys wires are shorted somewhere Basically I need to open the trunk manually with the key for now. I want to be able to open it manually with the microswitch button Maybe someone has some wiring diagram for trunk wires so I can check them somehow? I couldn't find anything I have checked the trunk wires which are under the plastic with a multimeter and they are fine. But according to the internet these old cars tend to break the cables where the hinges are when opening/closing the trunk over the years.
the wiring for this can be found in the central convenience module diagram as its wired to that, what you'll probably find is a break in the harness somewhere aroundf the grommets into the tailgate, I have exactly the same problem with our Bora as it happens it went intermittent for a long time and now its completly failed. I need to strip it all out for a look but just havent found the time there are several versions of ccm wiring it depends if you have electric windows or not plus the age of the car around 01 the modules changed. though wiring mostly same the pinouts to the CCM module vary a little bit I've various diagrams in my signature link 'g4convenience-xxx.pdf'
Tgank you for yout answer. First of all, that's a lot of manual, thank you for sharing. I have manual windows and I guess I found the right pdf, but I couldn't find anything that says anything about trunk/boot/tailgate etc. It's the same story with mine. Was intermittent. Now nothing. Can't find the time. 2 questions I have: 1) could it be that the wire for the motor are broken? because how I said my old motor had molten gears inside. 2) And I think I already know the answer but maybe you say no When you say strip it all out, I need to remove the tailgate itself to fix the wires, right?
ok so manual windows, from 01 onwards is this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_...TXc/view?resourcekey=0-DfSM5T2QapXu2-q12KDqPA its tricky to follow, as it covers golf, bora and estate which are all slightly different. you need the Golf Variant diagram which is on page 8 1) possibly, you would need to chase all the wiring and split the tape off to see what the issue is 2) you shouldnt have to no, just carefully pull the wiring out of it. tape some string or similar to the loom as you draw it out of the closed sections, leave the string in place. then you can use this to pull the repaired loom back through much easier than trying to tease it in
Alright, this seems promising. Couldn't find it on my own. But thanks to you know I see that maybe I can check the connections for the motor from the connection which is underneath the right D-pillar. And I didn't looked further in this document because it stated "central locking (with remote control)" but now I know more. 2) That's a good idea, but looking at the grommets it looks like the wire connectors would have a struggle to go through them. Anyways you've been a big help, and I can at least check for the wires and then go from there
Pop the grommets and pull wires gently from either end, may find they are broken and one or two pull out. Just sorted my mates bmw on the weekend as he ended up with multiple broken wires within the grommet, had to crawl in through rear seat opening and get boot open as his lock switch didnt work.
Thank you. I'll give it a go. Still wonder how the connections will go through the grommets but I guess you have more experience, so I'll give it a shot
there will be connectors in the boot area somewhere, you can see them on the diagram various 2, 3 and 5 pin plugs. the loom will be fed into the tailgate at the factory, then these connector plugs poked thru into the boot while they're building it if that makes sense
UPDATE: Checked continuity from D pillar 5-pin connector to tailgate 5-pin connector (which includes the wires inside the grommet - brown connectors) - AND to my surprise there is even continuity in all 5 connections!!! - And that's the connector which feeds the motor/cylinder lock/handle micro switch. Any other guesses what could be the problem that I can't open the trunk with the handle? Something I can check? Maybe there's a way to check the handles micro switch without connected to the car? Or the motor? P.s. Of course I still have to check continuity from the 23-pin connector (CCU) to the tailgate, but I don't want to believe that no moving wires would break so easily. And I don't want to believe that 2 handles with micro switches and 1 motor doesn't work (the other has molten gears inside like I said previously)
micro switches are easy to test with a multimeter on continuity mode either side of the plug so that would be next is a chance that whatever took out your motor also damaged the CCM...
No one than me has worked on tailgate inner parts. When I swapped the old tailgate for the new one I replaced all the wires. I had to take them out for painting. I don't have the money for the mechanic costs. I change, replace, DIY everything I am able myself. Okay I found out what's CCM. I guess Convenience/Comfort Cotrol Module J379 from the diagram? But how could I damage it if it's under the dash.. hmmm.. P.s. of course head gasket stuff etc. I didn't do myself
central convenience module, or in your case as its manual windows its actually a central locking module rather than a CCM, but usually people just call it a CCM as everyone knows what you mean when you say it so yeah its possible the control module had packed in, but check your micro switches with a multimeter to make sure they work, continuity from 5 pin back to central locking module etc. with vagcom you can also see all the micro switch functions in the measuring blocks, so its well worth getting hold of a cable
And the tailgate handle has been working intermittently from the moment I bought my car. And in the beggining I didn't touch any of the parts.
Getting smarter with every post What do you mean with "packed in"? Check continuity from switch to connector? And I actually have a VAG cable I ordered it to check what error codes I have but haven't used it that much. So what do I get checking the functions?
broke, died, dead, expired, deceased if you put a multimeter on continuity/resistance check/beep mode put it across the 2 pins on the plug. when switch not pressed it should be open circuit, when you press it closed circuit in vagcom if you click the upper left button, find the address for the central locking IIRC its 35 (but not central convenience), then click 08 measuring blocks click through and you can check all of the inputs in real time, its very useful for this kind of thing
Okay, now I understood. Will check the pins when I get home. So far so good, you've been such a big help.
I'm struggling whit the same problem, any news ? My car is a 2002 Bora (1J2)1.6 16v BCB, 4 electric windows. I know before I bought the car that the trunk could be opened only by key, also centralised locking from the key fob doesn't work and I can't manage to program the fobs, I tried whit the standard method and VCDS, but no luck... Is my CCM toasted?(VCDS gives "to many errors" when I scan the module) I tested the electric motor from the trunk, whit a battery, and it works. Also I tried to measure de signal on the pins from the electric motor connector (from the loom), while someone in car triggers the lock/unlock buttons, the result was a big nothing (0.00 V). The weird thing is that when I use the trunk lock to unlock/lock the car, the central locking works and unlocks/locks the cars, giving me a reason to believe that the loom is not broken... What should I do, I ran out of ideas...
I would te4move the trunk wiring for a good look. it could be the motor wires are snapped, but the various button wires are good resulting in the cl working when you trigger via boot lock
Thank you for the suggestion, I tried it but no luck, I'll buy a second hand CCM whit the same part number, maybe it will fix my problem.
