unsure if its been posted but , thought id add it list of conversion parts needed 1x mk4 r32 complete clyinder head full set of custom head bolts 1x r32 mk4 head gasket 1x r32 fuel rail 6x injectors if ur turboing 2.8/3.2 exhausts fit *same stud pattern either modifyed or mk4 r32 inlet manifold dont need a mk4 32 rocker cover as the mk4 2.8 fits spot on long as its from a 2002 first the timing alginment on the bde 24v engine removal of the inlet manifold , you will need to remove the front slam pannel/bonett catch to locat the clyinder head inlet bolts ,(20mins job)remove bumper , start drives under and along the grill, theres 2 behind the bumper grills,and approx 6 on the inner arch (bumper inner edge) headlights, unclip wires and unbolt the 4 screws , along with headlight plastic covers and a coule of 10mm screws on the edge of the inner wings along with a small posi screw,and unplug the radiator fan wires and air temp switch from the bumper/inner pannel/theres also another 4 13mm nuts and a couple of small star bolts as well, then the front can be slowly pulled off, so ull enoegh room to remove the inlet allern key bolts, just check the rear heat sheild and maf tubes and wires are unpluged along with the coilpacks fit a 27mm socket on the crank and remove no1 plug (offside of the car),until u see a small cut out in the inner crank pulley faceing approx 5 oclock and make sure no1 plug is tdc next remove the rocker cover and youll see this ull see at the rear of the camshafts there are 2 cut outs ,which only algin up with the clyinder head in one direction , so fit a piece off plate as seen in the pic above next ,remove the timing chain tensonirer bolt ,27mm nut on the rear of the chaining houseing and undeo the 5mm allern key bolts, and the 2 6m alern bolts under the plate once these are removed you will need to remove the complete thermostat houseing 3bolts in total again 5 mm allern key bolts, once this is removed , look where its been removed and you have to remove another 5mm allern key ,once removed , use a rubber hammer and tap of the timing chain case ,ull notice it has 2 locating pins and a small green o ring ,(make sure this dose fall out , once removed (along with the 2 vvt plugs) you see this make sure u algin the vvt pulleys correct , first check they are algined with , crank marks tdc/no1 clyinder tdc/then look at the vvt pulleys , ull see a faint arrow make sure its like this(this applys on both pulleys , also note do not get mixed up when re fiting these , as the inlet has more side to movement then the exahust pulley (good idea to mark them) once marked up you need to remove the camshaft bolts make sure u fit a good fit spanner on the camshaft you will see the nut shape on the cam , and fit a 18mm socket on the other these undo the normal therd notice (THESE ARE DAM TIGHT BUGGARS) i used a bar on each to crack them off ) removed it will look like this id advise u also remove the inner vvt (dont try undo the soliniods , undo the complete unit/ there are usely 4x 6mm star drives or 5mm allern key bolts ,(put a old rag covering the timing chain hole up as u dont wont to drop any into the timeing chain houseing, one removed slowly pull it off and ull see ends of the camshafts have thin oil rings on them ,this will enable u to remove the head better with the chain out out the way , (i will add these pics for better detail) next you need to undo the timing chain 6mm alern key bolts , that hold the timing chain runner , again be carfull , once bolts are removed ,pull the timing chain runner towards the radiator , next once the exhaust heat cover and exhast manifold bolts are undone , u can slowly make room without removeing them from the down pipes pic to be added just a rough pic then undo the head bolts ,and ull se this remove all old 2.8 gaskets and clean off with either a standly knif blade and thinners next step grab , the r32 head gasket and remove the brass pins so u can split the gasket as u only need the to and bottom half not the centre like this fit bottom gasket then spray then fit spacer then top gasket and clean bores off with thinners ,or tape them up then refit the r32 fit (2.8 shown in pic but fits the same) and re torque the head bolt as show here job done refit the rest as u removed them double check the timing marks and vvt pulleys ,,
that's a tooth out. the notch on the cam bearing cap should line up with the dirty great big groove on the cam sprocket, just to the left of the made up mark you've drawn on.
Yeah was going to say deffo a tooth out and I'm sure you don't want copper anywhere near the rings and bores either! Not a fan of those spacers but if you are going to use them either spray both sides away from the car or just fit dry with a proper gasket either side - heard of people having loads of issues with the spray not working at all!
Hey Mr Powernut, great post... I'm about to embark on this same project + Eurospec 268/264 cams. I'm going for a high power 2.8 n'asp setup with standalone (gets round the stupid ME7 load based mapping issues). One thing that crossed my mind is the combustion chamber, which is in the head with the 24Vs. Does the MK4 R32 head have a smaller bowl than the 2.8 head, thereby bumping up the compression? Any interference issues I should look out for if this is the case? And the reason I'm not going for a 3.2 engine is because I will be adding a turbo at a later date. I want to get the DTA working nicely on the engine first without complicating matters dynamically with a turbo. Other reasons include the insanity of a 3.2 litre turbo engine in a FWD car and the fact the 2.8 is well known to be stronger than the 3.2 where boost is concerned. Thanks mate.... Do you still have this setup out of interest? How did you get on with it? P.S. Should this thread not be in the V6 subforum where it will reach a wider audience?
hi pal only real differnce ive noticed of the mk4 2.8/r3.2 is the valve size , spark plug thickness, ,intake port holes ,headbolts differnert lengh if ur fitting the head on a 2.8 i ended up selling that setup , but i have another 2 engines ,which ill not be modifying unitel the vr6turbo is done and out the way next is a fully forged 2.8 4motion bottom half and a stock mk5 r32 fitted on it as ive noticed it has a wider vvt range which the ms3x controllsi used to run 20psi daily
Why not boost the r32 engine? Why the 2.8 block? I've seen a few boosted R32's in the states and they don't have any issues or do they? Nas
few issiuses depending on wheather you mean a mk5 r32 or mk4 r32 mk4r32 is forged, ie handles boost better mk5 r32 dosent have forged internals ie not as stronge reason for a 2.8 block is its stronger,thicker block,forged crank ,and r32 is usely fitted ,as it flows better then the 2.8 ,hope that helps a bit, ps u can still turbo them all
Cheers mate I've decided to stick an R32 lump in instead, with the 268 cams and see what that's like! Like you I'll be building up the 2.8 lump with forged pistons and rods for turbo use
