MK5 Edition 30 #57 Track/Race Build

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by mat-mk3, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Right, lets get cracking again, I'm exhausted lol

    This is the full BCS catback exhaust, It came up cheap even though it was new. It was the R32 style also which i was not too bothered about but i'm glad i did, it looks so much better on the car! I had to fit the new bumper but it the exhaust was so well made it fell into place with hardly any adjustment. Very impressed with the quality.

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    I had to cut and weld the bracket back on in the correct position on the ebay downpipe, It all fits perfect now.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2017
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    right thats it, get out :lol:
     
  3. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Haha, i'm sorry!

    I was planning to write more last night but ran out of time. The next update is a big one [:D]
     
  4. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Parts to fit in this instalment:

    Superpro alloy lower control arms and alloy brackets.

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    Vibra-Technics Bottom Engine mount/Subframe mount

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    The front FK Clubsport coilovers with adjustable top mounts

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    Plus Audi S3 alloy front hubs, VW Racing front brake discs and mounting adapters for the VW racing brakes with braided lines. New outer CVs both sides & new hubs, new droplinks to the superpro front ARB. Superpro adjustable ball joints.

    Tools broken: Air impact gun, Small breaker bar, Larger to adapter and nearly my hand.

    Right, where to start on this one. Like the rear setup I knew this was going to be hell of a job to fit all this. I planned a whole weekend and it actually took two because of a few problems along the way which you will see. Its just nuts and bolts, should be pretty easy right?
    Well firstly, lets start by removing the drivers side wheel and hub nut. No picture as its not a very interesting process! Crikey that hub nut is a bit tight, SNAP! There goes my Halfords 1/2 breaker bar. Lets try the air impact wrench, at least 10 ugga duggss and BANG! There goes my trusty air impact wrench. Im down 2 tools already and all I have taken off is a wheel! Lets get some lunch and I will go to machine mart to see what I can find to help. A couple of hours later I have these.

    A 900mm breaker bar. Sadly they didnt have a socket in stock to fit the hub nut so I had to buy a adapter to fit the socket.

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    This is it against the Halfords bar.

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    The biggest air impact gun they had on the shelf (nearly double the rating of my old one)

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    This better bloody work or Im stuffed.
    SNAP, Oh come on!! (The breaker bar in this picture is the Halfords one who replaced it FOC)

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    The air impact gun also failed to get it off, even with heat. However the other side flew off! That was a whole day gone so gave up and went home ****ed off.
    Asked around for ideas and everyone suggested to remove the whole shaft and hub. I was replacing the hub and CV anyway but at the time I didnt know you could split the CV from the shaft with the hub bolt still in there. I could have saved half a day if I had known this. Its still a learning curve for me.
    So with a plan for Sunday we got cracking early. Removed the drive cup from the gearbox however the strut would not split from the hub so had to take the whole bloody lot out in one go. Even the 3 bolts holding the top mount on were seized and needed cutting off. All the problems we had were on this side, everything came off lovely on the passenger side.

    Success!

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    Right, lets carry on with this side and replace the lower arm and bracket first.

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    The drivers side curse strikes again, the passenger ones were fine! I was worrying at this point as it looked like a replacement subframe was required. Thankfully VW have this covered as the mounting points for the lower arms are replaceable without replacing the whole subframe. I jumped on eBay and purchased this.

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    While we wait for that to arrive, lets move on to the lower engine mount. I couldnt get hold of a matching revo mount so when for the vibra-technics one which everyone said was better anyway.
    It was actually quite difficult to install due to the corrosion on the subframe. Its cast alloy so not too bad, it just needed some rubbing down with emery paper so take the rough part off and make it smooth so it slid in.with a mallet.

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    (Old bolt used, forgot to order a new one. This has since been changed for a new one)

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    Replaced the passenger side lower arm and bracket for the superpro alloy ones. They are so much lighter!

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    While waiting we broke out the angle grinder and cut the top off the suspension top mount. I didnt want to take this off completely because it would lose strength and also make a lot more work to clean it up so we cut it as low as possible without marking the factory bonding stuff. After a clean-up and paint it should look good.

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    Also removed the other drive shaft to replace the CV so did them both at the same time.

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    That was it for another weekend so fast forward a week. The car was stuck on the lift. Thankfully being a single post lift on wheels you can lower the car down to the ground and actually move the whole thing around! The replacement subframe arrived during the week so it meant we can crack on at the weekend and get it back on its wheels.
    Fitted the subframe piece, new hub, CV, suspension and tie-rod here. However you can see a problem. The factory tie-rod is far too long for the level of drop this suspension gives, which to be honest is actually not much! The ARB is now hitting on the alloy arm.

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    I guess it was obvious why we cut the top off the suspension mount, right? I think it works pretty well. You can fully adjust the top-mount now quickly and easily. I gave them a lick of paint to cover the raw edge.

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    I bolted on the brake adapter and braided line but thats as far as I could go. I was yet to get any tyres for the new wheels and the wheels I was using to move the car around wouldnt fit with the big brakes on so couldnt fit the callipers on sadly.

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    This nut gave me some issues as its frozen on the pipe. Managed to get the braided line on and it doesnt leak thankfully!

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    Finally back on its wheels

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    Much camber?

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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2017
  5. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    I managed to get hold of some superpro adjustable tie-rods which are a lot of money for what they are. I dont see that they are adjustable more universal as its a set and forget. Please someone let me know if Im wrong but I dont see how adjusting the length of the tie-rod will change anything.

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    This pulled the ARB away from the lower arm.

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    I had some friends pop over with a couple of things for me to try. One of them was a spare stud from their MK1. Obviously it was the wrong size for the MK5 but I wanted to check the length against the new wheels which I have just put tyres on. I went for 4 Yokohama AD08R as my road/wet setup to start with which leaves me 6 wheels for the track tyre which I have not decided on yet. This gave me an excuse to test fit a calliper and try the new wheels on.

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    However on the way down Guy (who painted the inside) noticed some brake binding on the MK1 so we took it into the workshop for a quick look. The caliper was half hanging off and needed a new adapter (G60 brakes) so they had to leave the MK1 at mine for a few days while they sourced the parts.

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    That concludes this part of the build, back to the interior next and get the bloody thing running again!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2017
  6. Tristan Forum Junkie

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    The adjustable drop links are usually used to have the ARB "un stressed" when the car is at working trim due to slight differences in things side to side and To not add any other springing effort to the suspension. However one adjustable is sufficient for that goal.

    I'd have been tempted to trawl the parts catalogue for a shorter oe type... Or cut and sleeve what you had...

    But as ever, great work.

    Who are BCS exhausts?
     
  7. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    I read that a mercedes vito van had the correct length ones but it uses an M8 bolt for the mounting points where the ARB and KW suspension has an M10 hole. Not good enough for me so just went with what i knew would work.

    BCS Automotive, https://www.facebook.com/bcsautomotive/
    They sell of lot of exhausts for the 1K platform, great quality.
     
  8. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    If mine hadn't already had a miltek exhaust, I would have bought a bcs exhaust. They are very nice
     
  9. Tristan Forum Junkie

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    It's lovely looking stuff. Have they a website too?
     
  10. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    The miltek is also a popular one but a lot more expensive sadly.

    Sadly not, they took it down about 6 months ago as it broke. It's just a holding page for now. https://www.powervalve.co.uk/
     
  11. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Really need to update this thread!
    Now running 400BHP, It's mental lol
     
    GVK, sparrow and Toyotec like this.
  12. babbe Forum Member

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    [:D]

    How har are your front springs?
     
  13. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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    Tell us more when you get chance!
     
  14. gasco

    gasco Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi Mat

    Car is looking great you have put a lot of hard work into this, and sure it will be worth all the effort when you get this beauty out and onto the track.
    My mk1 will be going off to jmr to have its new engine fitted in a few weeks time. Hopefully will get to use it this year for some track action. Are you hoping to go to some events in your mk5 this year?

    Cheers Lee
     
  15. GT-Alex New Member

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    Hi, I've read your build numerous times, I'm finishing my mk6 track toy right now. Could you help me with the airbags coding ? I deleted them all, and I'd like to get rid of the light now, possibly without removing the bulb :idea: to have a clean scan for the future. I'm a new member, I joined just to contact you in fact, but I'll make a post with my project as soon as it will be cleaned.
     
  16. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Right, Must update this thread. I never really finished it off! Need to fix the pictures first.

    I have a few updates to make over Christmas between my brothers wedding. (Sequential shifter!)
     
  17. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    You have to remove them from the can-bus so untick that the car actually had airbags. This will then turn the light off. Can only be done with VCDS.
     
  18. GT-Alex New Member

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    Yup, I ended doing this, no more annoying light
     

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