MOT fail - RBT Front Brake Imbalance

Hi, I got this today on the Mk2 golf.

26%. I think that the limit is 25%.

The MOT tester shot off and somebody else delivered the verdict, so I don't know which is the offending side.

Looking at threads it seems to be a process of elimination to figure why the imbalance is there: is that right?
With them being so close to the limit, a bleed may be all that's needed.

Any tips?

 

Might be a seizing caliper. Have a look at the pads to see which side is more worn and if the discs are turning blue from getting hot plus spinning the wheels you'll see which one is running freely and which isn't. Or could just be your pads aren't sliding
in the carrier properly and the carriers need cleaning or pad shoulders need trimming up if they are new but just ideas. Best thing is to go back and speak to the mot man

 

Cheers, fella.
I'll give him a call tomorrow. I've ordered some new discs and pads for the front so I'll give the calipers a going over followed by a bleed once I've refitted everything.

 

I have fit everything given all the calipers a good scrub with a stainless steel brush and bled the brakes last night; 2 man way.

OSR, NSR, NSF and then OSF.



The fluid that came out was almost black, however, the new stuff has flushed through to all corners.



I realised too that I completed the bleed procedure with the handbrake pulled on, does this matter (rears are drums)?


Problem;

the pedal is still spongy/has way too much travel before biting.

When it does bite, it's fine though.



I still need to do the checks (engine off, pump and hold etc )



Am I missing something?

 

Anyone?

 

Handbrake on shouldn't matter. Did you do the back first? Is there any sort of pressure compensator on drum brake cars?

I find it helps to shake out the bubbles if you tap the calipers with a spanner or small mallet as you're bleeding.

 

Cheers
thanks about the handbrake.

I did the rears first;
OSR, NSR, NSF and then OSF.
About 4-8 pumps per corner.

I don't think that there's a compensator.

I didn't try tapping the calipers etc but the new fluid was coming through and no bubbles were present at all.

 

does the pedal feel nicer with the handbrake on?

 

It does.

1-Engine off and handbrake on feels excellent and how I would expect the pedal to be.

2-Engine off and handbrake off feels okay but has a couple of inches or travel.

3-Engine on and handbrake on similar to point 1 but a bit easier to push due to engine vacuum.

4-Engine off and handbrake off similar to point 3 but easier to push due to vacuum.

Engine on or off the pedal doesn't lose pressure when force applied either.

 

handbrake making it feel better says it needs ajusting

wheel bolt out and poke the ajuster with something pointy so the pads just drag on one click

 

yeah the Mot tester said there's no reserve on the handbrake and that it needs to be adjusted. It passes the efficiency though.

 

yeah thats because the cable is forcing them out with the handbrake

ajust the shoes like i said ...then when you touch the pedal it doesnt have to take up all the slack before you get a good pedal

(might be further issues as well...but well ajusted shoes = good pedal)

 

Sweet.
So should I follow this first;
Release handbrake.
Put your foot on the brake.
Pull handbrake to second notch.
Adjust cable till wheel just begins to bind.
Release handbrake, and check wheel is free.
Tighten locknut on adjuster.
Apply handbrake fully, and check wheel is locked.

Repeat for other cable.

 

no

jack up rear wheels

remove one wheel bolt

torch through wheel bolt hole and poke at the ajuster .,pull down on ajuster with brake on

ajust until shoes just touch /drag with one click

 

Ah, right okay.
So I want to be trying to move that lever further down using a pointy thing?
Also, do you literally mean to pull it straight down using the hole where the spring attaches?

What position should the handbrake lever be in before I start this? 1 click?

 

pointy in the spring hole and lever it down

hand brake or foot brake fully on when ajusting...then test it at one click on the handbrake lever

if the cable has been messed around to compensate for this...after you have ajusted the shoes then ajust the cable so it pulls up 3 -4 clicks

 

Okay.

Is this just down to worn shoes?

The handbrake cable doesn't look like it has ever been adjusted: the nuts are right at the beginning of the cable so there's loads to be used up yet.

Ta

 

well you could whip the drum off and have a look at the shoes

but that ajuster wedge is sposed to auto ajust , but with age /dirt etc they seem to need a bit of help , i do mine when im servicing it to keep the pedal nice

 

Oh hang on, if you're pumping the pedal it will matter. I'm thinking not because i always use an eezibleed.

 

So itDOES matter that the Hbrake was on?