i read the 8v have twin speed if 3 weires, went and checked, even ran it direct to battery? surely the gauge sender, is just a gauge sender, ecu reads from the blue one gauge reads from the black one, so could still be giving false readings if the dash is right???
might be right on the fan.. just wondered as i havent noticed mine changing speed. sure gsf will stock them not sure what your asking with regards sensors. if you can get the dash to read right you can be pretty confident the temperature in the sensor housing is what it should be. so you can also be confident the ecu sensor is getting a normal temp and sending it to ecu right now you dont know if the temperature in the sensor housing is genuinely low or just that your clocks are bust
yeah 8vs have 2 speed fans. the coolant will boil with the cap off, you dont actually want that to happen as it could give you more air locks as the coolant boils in the system, you run it with the cap off till just befgore the coolant boils, watch the level if it starts to rise switch the engine off. running temp on some could be less than 1/2, different wiring/gauges/stat combos can cause different effects. my abf runs mostly at 2/3, i've put this down to it having a cooler temp stat than the other engines that I've had running in there. the oil temp doesnt sound right, check the sensor you have is a white one, not black.
i got a fan. 40 from euros but apparently the rocker bung. pipes and sensor is discontinued. base of the sensor is almost clear so im guessing it was white
wow, no-one. anyway, today i fitted the new fan and sealed up the rocker bung with valconising glue, only thing i had around. and in my first 20mins in traffic with the mfa ambiant saying 34* in london. the oil temperature didnt go over 98. got moving for abit and it was steadym stopped again, went upto 104 for a second then went back down, so im getting somewhere, it goes down aswell now after moving at about 40 it went up to about 106, down to 104, then up to 108 when i kept getting stuck at traffic lights, by the time i got home i had 110. the new fan seems to have helped alot, and on my 90 8v i didnt need the loom plug mod, so saved 6 quid there, now when i got home my fan was buzzing quietly, so i guess thats the low speed, and the coolant stayed more arond the 1/4 to 1/2 now, just sat just under half at traffic lights but went down just a touch when i was moving. still getting some mild pinking so really need to sort these leaks, got another rocker cover gasket to fit aswell, and some new belts for the crack. im going to do an oil and filter change, flush out the rad, can i flush through the top hose to clear the system? and replace with some new g12 as i lost that yesterday, so it mainly water:O i got a oil cooler coming from the very helpful dr zoidberg, thanks karl. so im getting there now. quick question as to what im feeling. on a flat road the car pulls strong, feels like power peaks around 4500, feels good. but tonight i got to floor it up a flyover bridge in 3rd gear, and when i hit about 4200 rpm the car took off and felt like a rapid car, had to catch the torqe steer quick could this be that my cam needs advancing some more? it made me smile for once, shame there isnt more hills round here
gsf do bungs. same place i suggested for fan and really obvious place to check for vag parts so maybe why no-one replied given the fact you near killed it with last time you started tried setting it up without a rolling road to tell you whats going on, id seriously recommend you either leave it be or have a trip to stealth
the only reason im putting it down like i am is because this is a forum to help people, the things im going through and whats fixing it could actully save you lot answering when people use the search button. but thats fine, so only stealth know what they are doing. why dont they put up on the front of the forum, 'got a running issue, dont ask here, take it to stealth. i think il just leave it here. cant beleive the dub scene is really going down the pan. thanks for the help anyway
Neil People aren't advising you to go to a decent RR for the benefit of their health. The cam position sounds fine. As has been mentioned several times- equal overlap or close to it is IDEAL, so leave it be!!! Oil temps are now more sensible-- it's boo*dy hot outside at the moment, so expect to clear 100degs. With leaks all sealed and a proper setup it will be better. If it still pinks, then you need less ignition advance for the moment. The dub scene is not down the pan at all. You can't expect replies to every single little update on demand. People have tried their best to help. I have said my lot on the subject now. Now out of patience
the trouble is you have a non-standard car chap, lining it all up to the factory marks will only take you so far, after that you need to get it tuned properly. this isnt something we can do remotely over the internet unfortunately as there are a lot of variables involved when tuning a car. not every engine is the same unfortunately, so some respond differently as you tune it. plus the rolling road chaps can watch the fueling as the car is tweeked, and advise if anything needs looking at there. the alternative is to pay someone like toyotec to come over and sit in the passenger seat with his laptop, afr gauge and calibrated **** cheeks (some of the best calibrated **** cheeks in the dub scene! ) to help you tune it.
