Well this eve I got the throttle lined in its correct spot, I tagged it onto head too to hold her still while I take a few strikes off it. Its all centred now, at the correct angle, and the correct length away too, it also fits in the engine bay! Lot of things to consider, but the bay mock up jig made it easy, Anyway, onto starting the core patterns/main moulds for it, Im making the cores first, as these are the most Important part of all this, the manifold is just built around them. Its a complex looking mould setup, and involves a lot of steps, but its pretty simple in all when you break it down, The plate, The clay, pottery clay as you saw before, rolled out to the correct taper and diameter, and cut to length, left longer the plate end for ease of fitting, Where they all have to go... One in and fettled, minimum of swearing with this, its actually nice to work with, I fitted the clay tubes down through the plate, and into port 15mm, All in, I kept it very tight to intake bolt for the benefit of the port curve, when I drill finished manifold for bolt I expect it to just break out into internal port wall. A slightly blurred end view, Theres a lot of clay in these, so I expect them to take a while to air dry, Im going to leave them In the workshop for a day, then the hall, the the house, then the hotpress, and then a spell in the oven. I hope not to have to fire them as there will be no work on them as such, so a slow air dry should be good enough. I can work on the actual mould pattern in the mean time. The clay tubes are just prints to form the core box off, for the internal sand cores that will be placed inside the main mould at time of pouring. Very like the coolant flanges, just bigger, and a bit more complex. Once the core clay patterns are hard Ill touch them up to final port sizes if they need it in any spots, basically, get them perfect. Brian,
Timber pattern blanks all glued up and drying for intake, ready for cutting/turning tomorrow eve Rob, thanks, slow the last while with other 'ideas/projects' but back on track again Drunkenalan, I guess so, I since found out that theres an insane fine off Vw for making such items. They even chased one lady on just doing a write-up on how to just draw the vw symbol Solicitors letters arrived to her/emails, and she had to remove post/link on the little how-to and 'destroy' her guide Sooooooooo expecting a call from Vw anyday now But to be honest, I feel Ive done more for Vw and their 'supporters' than they have done for me, so they can go **** themselves if there's hassle, Ill never buy another Vw again if anything comes of it. Before anyone says it, I know reproducing company Icons is Illegal. But in advance of anything coming of this, gimme a god damn break Vw. semi rant over. BG
And breathe Brian, I think if VW came to your door it would be to let you know how good of a job your doing. keep it up
Mmmm this thread is inspiring, The centre caps for the wheels are brilliant. Maybe i shall waste some hours in uni making my own but with a different brand badge for the middle .
After some insomniac style reading and thinking. I was thinking about your cast sump idea. How about cast a sump with reinforced mounts for a stainless sump guard which would protect the sump. It would look pretty cool and be purposeful. Another thought thats whirring away in my head. How do you plan on lowering the engine in the car when you have the extra clearance that is provided by dry sumping?
Thanks Airforcebiker. @M1keh, the centre badges could be made suit any car I guess! As for the sump, I had intended going that route for starvation issues only. But, now that Ive started some drawings(see below) I may lower it too to lower the COG. As for lowering it, I dont see any problems really, just lower it and change everything to suit. I may or may not lower yet, Ill see. Ive been thinking of building a F3 car Vw based(maybe use just one Vw bolt so I can call it that LOL) racer to let all my ideas come to light, you can only go so far with a MK2 chassis. Id be making everything for it, bar maybe the crank and cams. BUT, I need to finish all I have to do here first, Incl the 16v head, which will take at a guess, another 8months. > Ive been doing a lot of chassis drawings the last while figuring out a lot of stuff about the Mk2 chassis, that I didnt know, and could not find details on anywhere, simply because its so much trouble to find these measurements and do the drawings I guess. This all took time, hence the delay with the project, but, I needed concrete info, that could be trusted, which I now have to hand. Ill be posting up all these findings soon in the suspension section on here and the other popular forums, but I have to watermark them first. Theres a lot more involved in building a great car than just throwing parts at it, or looking what others have done and going for the same parts that they did. I feel its important to figure out everything starting from the ground up, and then decide what parts to get/make on these findings for maximum engine, and chassis performance. There is no guessing then as to where a part will make a good, or bad difference. Brian,
Look forward to it all Brian, My student budget means I can't afford much at the moment, so I'm learning how to chiptune my tdi using some basic chip programmers and hex editors. But your systematic approach of learning and working up from solid basic principles then tested by practice shows the work of a truely clever and patient person. You have probably taught me more about casting in your threads than my lecturer who tried very badly to. You just can't beat good explanations with nice pictures.
Im glad the pictures are helping, casting info is thin on the ground and can be hard to figure out given you have to think in the negative(pattern, not mindframe) all the time, but once you get your mind into that mode its easy. I tend to prefer to find out stuff myself than read about it mainly because sometimes info can be untrue, or say its very hard. Its not if you take it in steps. Its also up to you how you want to do it, if you feel doing it such a way is hard, do it your own way, what you want at the end of the day is the part, not the process. Patience is needed though Minor update! I went a bit more in-depth into the suspension/chassis measurements than I had planned but Im nearly done now and will be posting up all that soon. The Intake manifold cores and timber patterns as as they were the last time I updated. They will be the next things Im going at the minute I finish the suspension stuff. In the mean time I got asked by a guy to make him a breather block off plate. Since I needed one for my own build too I made two of them, its a basic part, but its making is shown below, it replaces the plastic breather box on the 2e for when doing a 2L conversion. This plate could be bored I guess if a tapping was needed. Being alloy means it wont rust either or need to be painted like some other block off plates. The main girdle is 10mm thick and the body plate just 3mm, so its pretty light, and very strong at the seal area. I chose to design this with a flat face, and use either a gasket, or sealant, either would do, its not under much pressure, > The pattern, made from some 7mm mdf for the main girdle, easy to cut this way, no complex pocket machining required, that then gets glued to a 3mm piece of hardboard. And blended at a 5 degree draft angle at the edge. Inside, the meeting point is given a gentle radius with some chemical metal, and of course, shrink taken into account when setting out, Face down and filling, Full, Filling the second flask, Full, Cope lifted off and you can see the sand hanging out that forms the depression in rear of plate, Gating, One vent hole also, Poured, I cant remember which one this was as I made two, but it doesn't matter, same part, First one still in 'out of mould form' second one just after pouring and still in mould, The second mould opened, Cleaned and pilot drilled to 6mm, Linished and checked for true flatness, Counter-bored, and then taken to 8mm, Four M8x25 will hold it on nicely. And thats that, simple part, but needed, and vital, and while I was making one, its as easy make two! Too bad if I left myself short! More updates soon guys! Brian,
So! You were pi55ing about with this on Sunday and not visiting mrs daved and I? We were expecting you!
I mailed you Sat night saying I couldnt make it. Checking sent items now and about to get cross as for the plate, I started the entire thing at 7pm and was finished at 9pm, pattern and all, two parts in total Hoping Profs mail sent too yesterday Sorry Dave if you waited around, I may have to kill everyone in the eircom office. Back in a second.
Brian. You're not the first to tell me that o2 have not permitted my e-mail. NWR nearly gave up, when they rejected his first four. One or two other people, on here, have pmed me that o2 have rejected their mail. ps. Not really angry. For me, every day is more or less like the previous![:^(]
Boring update.....finally got a stand free, so up the block went on it....its not coming off until its built so this is kinda it in the 'bolting it onto stand again department' . The block is sitting and oiled and copper greased the past while, so I have to clean all that crap off, and then flush the oil ways 40times more. Ive already flushed them 4 times.....you can never clean a block enough(I feel)! Im going painting it grey metallic, because I have some, and because it will look good against the cast alloy parts Ive been making, and am still making for it....Ill get there yet.... The first part Ill be putting after paint on is the breather block off plate, it will give me hope just looking at it on there, I think. Ill also be doing all the other bits for it as I build it up. I kinda want to get it painted and cleaned, and oiled fresh as it was worrying me a bit just being on the shelf, the winter is coming, and the air is getting damp(er). But that wont take long, and then Ill be right back at the intake manifold. I did say this thread was all over the place a few times...but we wont panic....I know what has to be done. BG!
