Hi, I have found a garage (very reputable) who are willing to do the engine conversion for me with a few conditions. This is because they have been stung in the past when the conversion has turned out not to be straight forward. It is a mk16V K-jet and I want to fit a 2liter. I belive the most straight forward is a 9A Block. In order for the garage to consider it, they will need me to confirm exactly what needs to be done. So my questions are this Do all the anciliaries from my current 16v (including injection) swap like for like with the 9A? Does the Gear box currently in the car (not sure what code this is) bolt straight on (eg, no change of flywheel of clutch)? If not what gearbox should I use (mk3 16V?)and what is involved in mating with to mk16V drive shafts and a 9A lump? Should I be getting the cams swapped over at the same time, and keep the same 1.8 16v inlet manifold? What 4-1 exhast manifold should I get with this conversion which will fit straight in? I have been searching the forum but I have seen some varying responses from people so just wanted a clear cut answer. I can see that a 6A and ABF engines require some mods so not such a good option for me. thanks for any help you guys can provide
just to confirm m8, you have a mk1 running a kr 1800 16v lump and want to throw a 2.0 16v 9a in it? neil.
yep,straight swap afaik,use the kr head as roccotune says and a head gasket for the 9a. and use the clutch to suit the box. Edited by: riley
Should be very straightforward, all the original KR stuff, gearbox, flywheel, starter, alternator and the rest just bolt on. I put a 6A into my '91 Mk2 16v recently and it was relatively easy (I've never done an engine swap before!). If you search in members motors there is a thread with my progress pics, might be worth a look to get an idea of what's involved. I would recommend renewing the engine mounts while you are swapping engines and probably the waterpump, thermostat, cambelt & tensioner, maybe the oil pump if you aren't sure of the mileage. Obviously you will need a gasket set for the exhaust, inlet, sump etc too. Good luck!
You don't need to use the KR head,only the inlet cam. If it's a later 92?> 9A you'll find it has an ABF head anyway. Use all the mk2 inlet manifold and injection system - it might need a tweek to stop pinking with a 2 litre, trip to Stealth required there unless someone locally understands how to set it up. Basically all you/they need to do is get the 1800 (KR) out, and sat side by side the 9A, swap all the ancillaries over, including the flywheel if using the 1800 16v (2Y) gearbox with a new clutch ideally. Sensors from the KR head will need to be swapped for the ISV controller,temp gauge thermo time switch and MFA oil temp. As Stu says, ideally you want a new water pump,cam belt, tensioner and timing chain etc while you're at it. You can do away with the 9A automatic cam belt tensioner if you use the stud it fits onto from the KR head, use a new KR manual tensioner, cheaper and easier to set up. Edited by: GVK
Make sure the 9a comes with the oil cooler/filter housing and breather block on the front of the engine as these are different than the kr ones. Put a new clutch in too
aye,either or really. probably worth doing the cam chain while youre at it? is it the 9a that has the softer chain wheels on the cams or is that the abf?
I already mentioned the cam chain Neil. Unless you want to replace the headgasket for the fun of it, I would leave whatever head is on the block and fit the KR inlet cam, the KR head might have done more miles and have w*nked valve guides anyway. Not sure on the changeover year but the later KR has the softer chainwheels anyway, mine has one of each (lol) and sounds ok, well as good as a Valver can do
Thanks for all the help guys, all clear now. I will start looking for an engine I think.... Last question, what is the process (and correct order) for getting, V5, insurance, MOT sorted once the conversion is underway?
