"Someone has moved the 'screw that is in the plate of the throttle', causing the normal 13mm 'nut' adjustment on the rear of the 3-point unit to not have enough adjustment range." That is correct! My "expert for carburetor" made this and lot of other things. Like, when he saw that my pulldown unit doesnt work, he put small aluminium rod in the rectangle ring of pulldown unit so choke plate couldnt fully close ever!. Then, I found little steel ball (like from ball bearing) in vacuum hose that goes from TTV which was bad too, btw. TTV doesnt get 12 V, becouse his fuse was blown. In my automatic choke cover there no heater at all, and he didnt replace it. But he gave me a bill, of course!. Now I am mad, and i am gona fix it by myself, with your help of course ! At my carb, that screw is almost fully screwed in towards the piston! I thought that may be a problem but i want to hear that from you! Tomorow I will setup that! My expansion element (waxstat) and its cam/mechanism is working just fine, becouse when I take hexagonal key and manually try to close what waxstat should do, there is no change in motor sound at all (when motor is fully warmed up). And there is no gap betveen throtle plate and piston! Thanks again Pete, and I expecting your answer how to setup corect idle speed on cold start (mine is about 2200-2300 rpm), and that would be all, i think! . My car goes super now, cold start excellent, but I need this few more things to do and I can sleep well!
Oh sorry Pete, too late I saw your answer about correct idle speed at cold start! What I meant is how to setup position of plate with hexagonal screw (fig 1. in picture).
Be careful! Adjusting almost any of the things in that picture may cause more trouble than it solves. First thing is to make the change to the fast-idle screw, which should do two things a) it will bring down the initial burst of revs that occurs when the TTV is still letting air through itself, probably to somewhere around 2000; and b) it should mean that you can now adjust the fully-warmed idle with the 13mm control at the back of the 3PU. It won't affect the idle speed when the waxstat is completely in control, but I'm not yet sure that you have a problem there. I would really recommend that you get these things right, before making any other changes. I do have some info about the warm-up cam, and a special tool used to set it up, but there was one piece of info that I was never sure about. When I find the tool, and the information that I could find, I'll add it to this thread.
That's the stuff! Cheers John. Right there on that first page. I made a DIY "Pierburg setting tool 4.07360.02" and checked the stuff in sections 26-34, all good. Then I went to the next section, 35-39 and got stumped by this phrase: "Refer to Specifications for the required drill size." I never have found a specification for this that is obviously the right thing to use. A challenge for anyone? So I think I left that bit more or less alone.
think the problem is the specifications page is missing as its an incomplete scan. if i actually had a carby still id buy myself that manual but as i dont i wont
OK. I'm happy to send you mine if you want to save work though. I think the the necessary info is in the text of the scan John linked to. It's just a flat plate with two mounting holes same as the real waxstat, then has a central part that sticks out 2mm on one side and 8.15mm on the other. I measure the mounting holes as 5.2mm dia., at 33.3mm apart. I made it from 5mm thick steel cut to about the same shape as the waxstat flange, with a hole tapped M3 right in the middle, with a cut-off screw loctited in so that it sticks out the right amount each side. Let me know if you want me to post it to you.
Thanks Pete, I will make it by myself! You really like to drink wine, first thing for compare with tool was that wine bottle plug
