OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. Suicide-racer Forum Member

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    RX8 1.8T 20V

    PLEASE HELP AGAIN

    Finally got my ECU back today, but can't get a spark or injectors to fire.:(

    I have these wires connected.
    Orange T10e
    1- connected to battery positive
    5- connected to battery positive
    8- connected to battery positive

    Black T10b
    4- connected to battery positive
    5- connected to battery negative
    8- connected to battery negative
    White 3pin T3a
    2- connected to battery positive

    Have the earth from the loom connected to the battery negative & the connection on the cam cover connected to battery negative.

    I'm getting a 12v feed at coils & injectors.

    I'm getting no voltage at cam sensor or crank sensor. Am I right in thinking I should have 5v at both of them?

    Suppose my main question is, what does the immobiliser cut out? Is it the feed to the crank & can sensors?

    A bit frustrated after waiting so long to get ECU back.
     
    erreesse likes this.
  2. Chubbs2016 New Member

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    Do you know what wires are what on the mk2 loom
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  4. jezzasin New Member

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    hey rubjonny, i have just aquaired a passat B4 1Z tdi which has about 225k on the clock, as you mentioned tdi swaps would the pd130 engine fit in and be able to be plugged into the CE2 fusebox with a few mods, or is there a way to get it to be plug & play
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah you can use my goude to plumb in the PD engine, I've tried to cover all mk4 swaps in this thread rather than just 20v :)

    main issue with boltign them up over the 20v engine is the turbo setup gets in the way of the rear engine bracket so you have to do something with the turbo or bracket to make room. apart from that its basically the same as a 20v swap really, make the boost pipes fit, get a suitable gearbox and the right brackets to bolt it up, mod the loom, fit shifter and sort clutch with hydro or seat kit etc
     
  6. jezzasin New Member

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    Sweet I'm sure there is a way around the bracket on a thread somewhere as I swear I remember seeing it, good job the B4 Passat is similar to the mk3 bay wise so that will help loads too


    Sent by my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon ;)
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    might be a little easier in the passat as I believe the chassis legs are a bit further apart :)
     
  8. jezzasin New Member

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    Could that help if u had a tubular manifold to relocat the turbo out of the way of the mount, see at the moment the 1z is fine and will want to up the power on that while I get as much info on the PD swap, may even try to get another Passat front end to practice with to make sure everything fits well and measure where I can mess with the turbo etc.

    Is there a specific choice of PD engine that would be best to fit or are they all the same as I was thinking early mk4 tdi or a seat Leon just not sure which would be ideal lol


    Sent by my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon ;)
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    from what I understand the engine package is basically the same layout for them all. The PD150 has a reputation for eating camshafts, not sure on the lower power units. if you look at a pd150 and budget for a nerw camshaft then no problems, and just keep on top of the service schedule and it should do you fine.

    I'm not a massive expert on them though, so you may want to look elsewhere for specific diesel advice. I really should start figuring them out though since we now own a PD150 bora which isnt as quick as it should be :lol:
     
  10. jezzasin New Member

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    Haha ok cool was thinking of a PD130 and going from there, cheers for the info, will continue to read through this on my break thanks


    Sent by my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon ;)
     
  11. shaggyjh Forum Member

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    Had a look and used the search and can't see anything mentioned through the thread .

    I am using a 3.2 V6 TT engine and loom and have a grey 10 pin plug along with the orange, black, white, blue and brown plugs. Am i right in thinking this grey plug was to do with the DSG gearbox? I've looked on ELSA and think i've lucked out when i looked at gearbox first and the colours of a few pins seem to match up!

    If it is DSG, can i bin it all if i'm running a VR6 gearbox?

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep I've had a look in Elsa and I would agree thats what it is for :)

    once you split the loom down and chase the wires you'll see they're not for the ecu if this is the case :thumbup:
     
  13. shaggyjh Forum Member

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    :thumbup:

    I'm going to go through the looms and check each connection then go through the VR6 loom and write where each terminal goes for fusebox plugs F,G1 + G2.
    Might have more questions!! lol
     
  14. 2k3gti18t New Member

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    Once again, thanks to this thread I have a running and driving MK3 1.8t. I am having a problem with the OBD Port in the car. I have my wired the OBD port directly to the ECU. My car does not have ABS or the airbag module hooked up or installed. The k-line is wired right to the ECU. In my state I need to be able to hook the OBD port to a machine to verify its function. My K-Line is putting out just over 11v and the machine requires 5v. From what I have seen, the K-line in all Mk4s should put out 5v. Does any one know of a way to fix this or at least diagnose it?
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what code is the ecu?
     
  16. 2k3gti18t New Member

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    Part number on my ECU is 06A 906 032 LP Thanks again for any suggestions you can offer.
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    right the diagnostics wire needs to go to pin 43 so double check that, and there is no damage to the harness that could be shorting out. for the port you need live to pin 16, earth to pin 4 and k-line to pin 7. mk4 ports have an extra earth and ignition which you could add in if you want, but you dont need to for the diagnostics to work.

    as for voltage on the k-line not something I've checked, a couple guys said they got 10v or so? If the wiring is 100% correct and you have gone straight to the ecu you shouldn't have any issues. the main problem with mk4 gofl and newer is VW put the radio diagnostics wire on the amp/aerial power pin so this often gets shorted to 12v if you put in an aftermarket stereo, usually resulting in damage to the vagcom cable
     
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  18. 2k3gti18t New Member

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    Thanks for the update. I do have my k-line running straight to the ECU and the power and grounds at still the original wires from the MK3. I was looking through my diagrams and it shows the K-line going from the ECU to the cluster, and then the K-Line coming from a different source. Could that be causing my voltage issue?

    I've looked at the Ross-Tech site and it shows that the K-Line is supposed to be at ~5v. I just cant seem to get a consistent answer on this one.
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the only reason it goes to the cluster first on the mk4 is for the immobiliser, its the equivalent of the mk3 ecu kline going to the immobiliser box then the port so no problems there. The ecu k-line is still the same signal you would expect as the one you would see on the clocks, the clocks just re-routes the ecu kline wire to the port when you try to scan the ecu
     
  20. jezzasin New Member

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    On point of 1.8t swaps a friend of mine has a 96 b4 tdi same as mine and is the whole swaps the same a doing it in a mk2/3 with ce2 or are mounting points different

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     

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