Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.
Legend mate, thanks a million
Try demon tweeks for your 10x1 oil t-piece
Think mines was about 20 quid
@rubjonny hey bro have a question
I’m trying to use a tach adapt for a 3.6 swap but I can figure out where I can get the RPM signal?
where is the engine from? you may find its CAN-BUS only so there is no ecu pin for it. if so, you need one of these:
Engine came from a 2007 Passat and I have already a tach adapter but I’m not sure where I get the rpm signal from coils or from cams sensor ??
ok you'll probably find as I say, rpm signal is over can-bus so there is no ecu pin for it. so you need a can-bus type tach adaptor
if there was an ecu pin it would be ecu pin 37 same as a mk4 r32
there is a way to tap into coilpack triggers to get rpm but its not recommended
R36’s ECU No pin 37 showed in the Ecu (no cable)
On a r32 ECU pin 37 wht/gry go to some
winter driven program bottom (if equipped)
engine code bud
no pin 37 is rev counter on MK4 R32, but it would only be used by the climatronic panel as the cluster are all canbus by the time R32 was fitted
the earlier 24v ECU would have 37 wired to the cluster as well as climatronic
since you have no pin at all, chances are you need one of those canbus modules I linked to. around MK5 era the ecu pins are deactivated, aslo in US market the ecu tend to be canbus only for MK4 v6 also
One more technical question if thats ok?
Regarding clutch switch, whats the conditions? Should it be open or closed circuit when Not pressed down?
I know it should get +ve feed to ecu. But when pressed or when depressed.
am using old mk1 brake switches installed on the clutch hydro pipe to slave cylinder as in picture.
12v when NOT pressed,so opposite of a brake light switch
If you want to bypass clutch short wire to 12v. If you want to bypass brake switch 12v to the white/yellow, and earth the black/red (ECU sees earth thru the bulbs when wired properly)
ok excellent, i use the other terminal on the switch to give it 12v when not pressed.
thank you again mate.
Cool idea btw, not seen it down that way before
If you check ECU measuring blocks you can check the pedal condition to make sure all is well
I've bought a mk3 golf with a 1.8t AQX. It runs, all the lights work, the dash shows when the lights are on. Can I make the speedo and the rev counter work?
It has a t14 plug, so I should connect pin 2 to G1/4 and pin 10 to G1/11 if I'm right? Will this make the speedo work?
What about the rev counter? It's not mentioned fot the t14.
Thank you for helping
heyup yes you need to wire those 2 pins on the t14a if you want to use the mk4 wiring in the sensor harness for the speedometer sender, or you could wire it direct if you prefer. AQX is a SEAT engine though, are you using the original SEAT harness or a MK4 one? If its SEAT theres a big round plug as well
the rev counter is on ecu pin 37, on a mk3 you can run that direct to G1/12 and it'll work with your cluster no tach adaptors required
I am using the original SEAT harness, there is a big round plug. Do I need to do something with it?
cool just thought I'd check. the round plug doesnt need touching if the engine runs
on the T14a:
10 - speedo sensor pin 1 - G1/4 if using (ignition live)
11 - speedo sensor pin 2 - G1/11 if using (speed signal)
12 - speedo sensor pin 3 - earth
So apart from an accelerator pedal issue some months back my AUQ in a Corrado has run well from this guide. Unfortunately the following arose recently, normally from a hot start it will idle very lumpy and struggle to accelerate cleanly and then after a few mins the accelerator will do nothing. If I clear the codes it's as good as new until the next hot start. Codes as follows
17972 Throttle actuator J338 under voltage during basic setting p1564 intermittent
17705 pressure drop between Turbo and Throttle valve p1297
17579 Angle sensor 2 Throttle motor g188 not a plausible Signal p1171
17608 Boost pressure control valve mech malfunction N249
18010 power supply terminal 30 voltage too low p1602 intermittent
17987 Throttle actuator J338 adaptation not started p1579
So it seems Throttle actuator an issue but possibly power or wiring related then there's diverter or N249 valve involved. Anyone got any advice on how to best go at this? Thanks
18010 suggests ecu relay issue or power to it, so start there.
looks like it may need throttle looked at but possibly this is down to under voltage from relay re: 17972
may have a boost leak as well according to 17705
Hey Jhonny question on swaps 3.2,3.6 it’s ok use
428 relay for main power ecu and coils? And for the rest of the accessories,Which relay do you recommend to have enough and constantly power??
I know For fuel pump main relays is 167 but for the others components
And I’m talking about doing a universal wiring his own relay and fuse box not on a ce1-2
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