OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Assuming its a later loom where T6/2 was purple/white thatys fine, to rule out anything fusebox to pump side poke an earthed wire into the back of D/13 and the fuel pump should run with ignition on :)

    D/26 is your rev counter, so you hook that up to the output from your tacho adaptor. D/15 is just an extra ignition live, usually isnt used for anything. originally it'll either be the resistance wire to the points ignition, or on diesels it goes to fuel shutoff valve
     
  2. mk1re2000 New Member

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    Hi Jon, thanks for your reply, yes it’s the later type loom. I did remove the d13 wire to carry out the test you suggested. Putting an earth wire to D13 with ignition on did not operate the pump, would this suggest a faulty relay or are there any other wires that I should be checking? Thanks
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    did the relay click at all? it should be a 67, 80 or 167 relay, to test other fusebox connections and pump wiring you can use a 17/18/100 relay in slot 2 this should bring the fuel pump on with ignition regardless of anything the ecu is doing
     
  4. mk1re2000 New Member

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    Ok thanks, I’ll give that a go and see what happens. The relay didn’t click at all, the relay I was using had 2 stamped on the top, so I’m guessing that’s incorrect to begin with?
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep that'll be why, 2 is a kjet relay and needs a rev counter signal to be triggered rather than an ecu earth trigger to d/13. so I suspect if you get the correct relay all will be well :)
     
  6. mk1re2000 New Member

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    Perfect, all working now with the correct relay. Also can I just go ahead and de-pin D15? Thanks for your help
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep can bin it off
     
  8. donballe New Member

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    Unfortunantly that didnt make any difference. It still wont fire up. Doesnt show any codes.
     
  9. donballe New Member

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    I bought a running spare parts car. Ive tried to swap Coil packs, ecu, ecm. Everything works with the parts car but not the mk2.

    Anybody have any ideas?
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok so lets check the feeds. ECU:
    1 - ignition live - check this has good voltage both with ignition on and while cranking on starter
    2 - earth - chase it and make sure its a proper earth, battery negative or good clean chassis
    3 - permanent live - good 12v, at all times
    4 - fuel relay trigger - fuel pump should run while cranking when ECU is plugged in

    T10/14a:
    5 & 6 - injectors and engine electrics - check these pins have power while cranking, if not ignition with ecu plugged in
    7 - earth - chase it and make sure its a proper earth, battery negative or good clean chassis
    8 - coilpack power - check this has good voltage both with ignition on and while cranking on starter

    this is all the AGU ECU needs to work
     
    David Pimenta likes this.
  11. donballe New Member

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    Big thanks Jonny!!! Its working now. The voltage on ign live dropped to Zero when cranking, ive changed the source and viola :thumbup::thumbup::hug::hug:
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  13. Prskii New Member

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    Hello guys, since I sent my rod through block on my mk3 2E 8v Ill be doing an 1.8T AGU swap from mk1 Octavia. Donor will come in 3 days time so I'm in the process of collecting last bit of info I need. I'm not worried about wiring, as it should be pretty straight forward to convert it to CE2 unless someone before me had some "my friend can do it cheaper" DIY attempts on wiring. Although I have some questions. I've read pretty much whole thread but couldn't seem to find exact answers I need since its quite a big one xD.

    1. Regarding coolant temp sensor. Ill be using mk3 4 pin sensor, and I want to know if I can just put it where 1.8T one is originally or do I need the MK4 upper rad hose with sensor fitting anyways ( part number 1J0121087A )?

    2. Ill be using 12v VR6 radiator to have coolant hoses on the same side 1.8T radiator has it, and I'm ok with keeping mk3 coolant bottle in the original spot, without moving it to the opposite side, right?

    3. I will stick with O2J tranny, so that means Ill be converting to hydro clutch setup. I just need to go on a junkyard run to get TDI pedal box with master cylinder bracket. Ill get the new clutch master cylinder for VR6/16v GTI. What I'm concerned with is, do I need the clutch slave from a mk3 as well or can I keep the 1.8T one?

    4. Power steering pump lines from a mk3 should be alright since its a banjo style, which means I get to keep 1.8T PS pump and Its a bolt on fit?

    Thank You in advance for your replies, It would mean a lot to get any kind of information so that it all goes in as smooth as possible.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1. yep when using the mk3 4 pin you would replace the original mk4 sensor. if you wanted to leave the mk4 sensor alone and add a mk2 2 pin sensort, then you would use the mk4 + ac rad hose flange with the extra sensor hole in it
    2. main issue is if you have space with the airbox, some have it on the other side e.g. Ibiza and those have the coolant bottle same place as the mk2/3 golf but see how you go. with a smaller cone filter prob have no problems
    3. needs to be a mk2/3/corrado/etc slave as the mk3 pipe has a different fitting to the mk4 plastic one. you can get adaptors though up to you
    4. some mk2 guys sometimes find the mk4 pump hits the front engine carrier but see how you go, worst case use a mk2 pump and swap the pipe insert over then you can use the mk3 pipes. all it is the mk2 pump will probably be corroded around the top where the mk3 banjo needs to seal, if its clean/new you might get away with it
     
  15. Prskii New Member

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    1. Cool, mk3 4 pin it is
    2. Yeah thats what I thought as well, thats why I will relocate windshield washer reservoir that way I get good amount of space to put cone filter inside fender
    3. Oh didnt know it was a fitting issue, so any mk3 should work
    4. Okay, ill manage it, shouldnt be a problem since I have gazillion mk2/3 spare parts

    Thank you so much for your reply, this thread is a life saver. I will tackle wiring tomorrow, if i get any issues ill be back haha
     
  16. Prskii New Member

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    Ok so, didn't have time to do anything last few days so I started today. I just need some confirmation. As I already said, engine is AGU.
    These are 3 connectors I have going inside the car ( brown, orange and white ). There are some non existing wires and few wire color differences but I'm using pin numbers as my reference point anyways. Should be alright just need to go through it.
    [​IMG]

    This is the T10a/T14a connector referred to as "connector in engine bay near ECU". For me it was sitting behind the battery on drivers side as shown in picture below. Just need a conformation that this is it.
    [​IMG]

    And this part of the loom going inside/under dash I don't need (well 90% of it), so Ill just cut it there to make it easier for me to separate some wires I need, right?
    [​IMG]
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Yep that's the t14a, chop that with a decent length and away you go

    Once the 2 ECU loom halves and t14a are removed there's nothing else you need in the bay really, inside all you need is the diagnostics plug for an agu. The car wiring if you get it all out with enough length is good for stripping down for spares though if you need it
     
  18. Prskii New Member

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    Hi guys, I have an update and a question.

    Since my collage is taking most of my time progress is slow, but last night I managed to put the harness in and she fired first try, although O2 isn't connected so she shut off after I released gas pedal.

    Regarding the T6/1, I've checked that ECU relay ( I'm using n.30 ) pin 87 is connected to G1/10. Didn't have a wire in this spot so I de-pinned from extra loom and placed it there and fused it with 15A fuse. This is good right?
    Also I have noticed that my rev counter isn't working when I fired it, even though I connected it as per thread ( to G1/12 ). What could be the issue since its a mk3?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if youre just using g1/10 for your ecu thats fine, if you're also powering the coils I'd worry the fusebox pin may not be man enough but adding a 15a fuse should reduce any risk (if coils go faulty then can draw massive load, and melt your wire/fusebox fuse prevents that)

    for rev counter make sure you earthed g1/5
     
  20. Prskii New Member

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    G1/10 doesnt power anything else, and its fused so I sorted that out.
    Thanks for the G1/5 earth tip, now its working.
    One last thing I hope, my dash battery light is constantly on while car is working, even tho i connected DFM pin to F/03. Dont know what the issue is.
     

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