Hi all, After much deliberation I am midway through converting 2e2 on my Mk1 to Weber. The car is an '82 cabriolet, however it has a 2e2 carb and a EX engine making it a 1.8 instead of the 1.5 I thought I was getting. The conversion was done by previous owner very poorly, none of the electrics to the Pierburg were connected as there were no loom take off points for the TTV etc. So now I am trying to get it working. I have read RubJohnny's Pierburg posts on GolfMk1 but I still have q's I can't work out and would really appreciate help with. The thing causing me grief is not really understanding how the kick down / accelerator cable spring on the carb end is setup and how it works. I don't have this at all and am trying to understand how I can make something to work as I cannot find anything to buy anywhere that would just correct this setup. While I am now Weber not Pierburg, actually any pic or understanding how the throttle cable to carb connection works on an auto and how it ties in with the kick down would work either way. In EKTA - the auto cable is the same all the way through from 1979 - 1990 so it would be great just to see if anyone has a pic of auto cable -> throttle body connection with a carb- any carb. My kick down lever to carb cable is non-standard. For the auto it should have a spring and retaining clip and stop block etc going after the throttle cam from what I can see. I have none of these - just a straight cable with a lug on the end more like the manual cable spliced together with a joint as shown in the pic. I have only driven the car 100 miles (3 years ago) before not being able to get it started again, so I don't believe the kick down could have worked with this setup. The throttle cam is just being pulled forward by the end of the cable - no spring. I have attached a pic of my cable end, as well as a manual pic of what the setup at the end of the cable should be for an auto box like mine. Any guidance on how to get from where I am to a working setup really appreciated! On another note - the throttle body heater off the 2e2 had the wire snapped off at the body. How essential is the throttle body heater to a working Weber 32/34? Any help gratefully appreciated.
hello there, the problem here is you have a manual throttle lever, what you need is an auto one. hopefully the original 2e2 carb has one, if so believe you just swap it over?
Hi RubJohnny, Ok - wow thank you. I didn't see that coming. I've been resolve the fact that I don't have an auto cable - the previous owner just lashed up a manual cable onto an auto pierburg. So all this time I've been trying to resolve getting an auto cable instead of my manual. Now you have pointed out that at the same time I've bought brand new auto weber that turns out to have manual throttle lever in error! I checked and double checked the part number of the weber and it was clear that it was the ......919 which is for the auto. I'll take it up with the supplier. Thank you. This I now believe is what the auto throttle lever should look like? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26478282...e5KCrdiDhjGdYFzhOXCZk79VLRdG8fARoC8LcQAvD_BwE
ah looking again thiunk it is an auto unit... sorry soooo. as that weber is a replacement for a 1.6 2e2 type you want to make sure your cable set is for a 2e2 carbed car, as they can differ depending which carb you have. so, 172723555B is the throttle pedal cable you need and 010321309K for the gearbox cable. not only that, you probably need a kit of parts to actually get it fitted to the throttle linkage on the carb/box, looks like you need: 431723779 - pin - NLA N 0124362 -> N 01243601 - circlip - 65p+VAT x2 (or maybe more needed) 010321319D - pressure spring - NLA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192872518148 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202637347690 seem a bit pricey if you ask me, probably easy to replicate your own stuff maybe a short shouldered bolt and a random spring tbh
Hi RubJohnny, Thank you for pointing that out. Really helpful. Talking to the vendor he is saying they can 'sort it' but I am worrying that there is maybe more than just the throttle lever. The weber box is definitely the correct one 0919 reference. But what is inside it isn't one. Is there anything different about carbs for auto / manual other than the throttle lever, as far as you know? Also If this is wrong it could just as easily be for the 1.6 manual instead of the 1.8 auto. I would have thought that would require different jetting but I don't know? Also it could be for any car at all. Vauxhall - they all use 32 / 34 I think?
Hi rubJohnny thank you. The 'gearbox cable' is a mystery to me. What does that connect? I can't find any reference to it in the weber installation, there are no pictures I can find. I have genuinely hunted for actual days trying to work out what an auto carb installation looks like, I have asked on forums 8 or 9 times if anyone knows and all to no avail. As my car was 'converted' by prior owner I don't have a template of what carb / cables connection should look like - to the extent that after wresting with this for 2 weeks solid I still can't even find out if there is another cable I'm missing to the carb! Any link to an image you have would be so gratefully received pierburg or weber or anything old golf.
so. from what I can work out, the pin above slots in thru the lower part of the bracket with the hole in, and also thru the end of the cable as it seems to have a hole. then secured either side with circlips. the spring is there to add tension between it all to make it return to open when pedal released. hopefully someone can get a good pic!
Dug out a couple of photos from when I installed a box fresh 3234 auto kit on my 1.8 auto. Hopefully this helps - can't guarantee it's right but it works. Currently got a 1.6 auto on the drive with a 3234 on it from previous owner - again can't be sure that it will be set up right but will try to grab a photo tomorrow
I still cant figure it, do you have that pin I linked to on ebay in there somewhere, or was the pin on your weber with the screw poking out with it included with the weber kit?
Saladman - thank you so so much! A picture finally. I have been searching for weeks and asking on different forums and you have come through. I can't tell you how grateful I am. I have managed to find a used auto cable but nothing I could understand on how to fit it. This will enable me to make a good stab at it. The missing piece I remain unsure on is can you recall what happens on the other side of the 'ferrule' with the hole in it and the screw at the end? I know that the spring and retaining clip are behind it although it is hard to make out. So how does the spring 'bear off' the swivel ferrule? As rubjohnny, mentions the piece with the hole ('ferrule' as they call it in the weber kit) does come with the kit and I can see from the pic you have sent that what looks like a solid cable goes through where the screw binds. Is there a separate inner, inner cable that the spring holds out? I'm just thinking that if the screw is binding that solid inner bar part of the cable, what is the spring for? If you are able to grab a snap from behind the throttle lever to see how the spring seats that would be amazing. Thank you!
It has been real hard to work out for me particularly because I don't have a standard cable install to tear down as I have the manual cable so I agree my case is unusual. But not everyone swapping a 2e2 for a weber would have a fully working perfectly setup 2e2 - otherwise they wouldn't be converting. The weber instructions in this aspect are pretty dire. Not a single image of how the cable connects to the throttle for the auto. The manual variant doesn't have it either but is self explanatory whereas the auto isn't - to me at least. I did speak to the company who sold me the weber kit and asked if they had any further guidance on the kit but got very short shrift from him. His answer was 'it's clear in the instructions and so it's up to you. If you aren't happy I'll refund'. While it's not his fault, as Weber create the kit, and his suggestion - if not constructive - was pretty reasonable, I find it baffling that Weber don't have any install videos. I mean, how hard could it be for them to just show a 30 minute install of each of their carbs? Sure there are 100's but it should take 30 minutes or even if they just invited their users to send them videos of their install and collate the ones that were good on a you tube channel. I just don't get it. If they had shown what the cable connection was, I figure it would have taken me half an hour to get 2e2 off and weber on and assuming it worked I'd have been thrilled and an advocate for Weber. As it is I think they are **** and if there was an alternative I'd go for them instead. Not that I'm bitter at wasting 2 weeks of my life trying to find out how a thing I handed over good money for is supposed to be installed. Not at all.
ok, right. so. found some cable pics, getting a little more clear. So the round pin above is fitted on the cable, then a circlip on the end of the cable to stop it coming off again. the pin is pushed through a round hole somewhere on the original carb linkage, and the spring keeps it all under tension. on the weber you dont need the pin by the looks of it, you can use the thing thats included. but I guess you dont need the screw, that is intended to clamp down on the cable direct and seems to be for manual models only?
Rubjohnny, thanks - that's interesting and looks like new news to me at least. If I read it right. And great to have the pics - thank you! So from the pics it looks as though there are just two parts to the cable - the black outer casing and the inner cable which then becomes what looks like a solid bar at the end. I think I am now understanding that the solid bar part of the inner cable is actually a 'slider' bar that goes through the hole in the 'ferrule' pin. And that the throttle lever is actually moved by the spring resistance rather than direct mechanical movement through being clamped onto the bar? I can see how this would work. As long as the resistance in the spring is strong enough, pressing the pedal would cause the throttle lever to be moved by the spring until the throttle hit max. However the cable could then actually still move further through the further resistance in the spring so that the cable can travel PAST full throttle and trigger the kickdown gearbox lever into kickdown. I don't know if this is how it works, but I can see that it could. In the weber instructions it is completely silent on the screw in the end of the ferrule - doesn't mention removing it or it being there and the parts picture doesn't show a screw in it yet the actual part has a screw in it! So I think you've cracked it for me. I was thinking the screw in the ferrule / pin was there for a reason and would clamp down on the bar and I couldn't see how that would work. Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Now when the cable actually arrives I know what to try!
Righto managed to get out to the second auto (not the one with the new shiny carb) with Weber to grab some pics. Please enjoy the professionally edited photo below :') As far as I can see: There is an inner rod / tube (labelled D) that passes through the pin/ferrule (C) There is a shoulder (F) on rod (D) that sits up against pin/ferrule (C) Pin/ferrule (C) fits into the throttle arm and can rotate within the throttle arm as the arm arcs round as it is pulled. Presumably this is needed as the accelerator cable has solid rods / tubes on the end, not just a wire cable like on manuals Spring (B) tensions rod (D) and shoulder (F) in place against the pin/ferrule (red arrow) - spring is retained with circlip (A) that is in groove on end of rod (D) It looks like there's not much room / chance for this spring to do anything else - e.g. compress to give a 'soft stop' when pressing on accelerator pedal - you can see how little space there is between spring coils That said it might just be enough compress-ability to do the kick-down thing, not sure how that works Rod (D) slides into tube (E) (blue arrow) when throttle is pressed Short vid here - didn't have an assistant to press the pedal so just moved arm by hand. All of this is of course fine - but also remember that the throttle cable doesn't go directly from the pedal to the carb. From looking at it, it goes something like: Cable (A) - I think this is from the pedal. This also has some adjustment possible - see other image below (B) - this goes to the carb (C) - from gear shifter / handle Hope that's helpful Found a link that seems to give more information about the cable from pedal to box - and how to adjust the shift timing (although engine looks like an injection model): http://www.vwgolf-mk2.com/eaccelwire.html
Found a link that seems to give more information about the cable from pedal to box - and how to adjust the shift timing (although engine looks like an injection model): http://www.vwgolf-mk2.com/eaccelwire.html
nice, that is extremely useful, so much so I've made a copy in the transmission FAQ section many thanks
Hi Saladman, Thank you so much. That is incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it. The cable setup A / B / C makes sense and I've checked mine and that is how it is which is encouraging. It's a real relief to be able to see an actual set up and have it so well explained by you! Thank you. As soon as my new cable arrives - I'm on it!
Hopefully I didn't make any mistakes / errors heh. Happy to help - had plenty of it on here from others IMO an auto makes a great daily driver so it's well worth keeping these on the road. Let us know how you get on with the new cable and setup - good luck!
As an update to this saga, thanks to some great images and info from saladman, the weber is fitted and the new auto accelerator cable is also fitted and the car started first time. I'm really pleased - and grateful for the help from you all. However - after a minute or two of running I ended up with a huge puddle of petrol on the floor by the rear wheel - fuel filler side. So I am guessing that this is a break in the fuel return line as it only happened while running and not while car was standing. I didn't add any new fuel to the tank. Any thoughts welcomed
