Hello The above is fitted on my 1989 1.6 Driver. I realise that the Waxstat has to be removed for checking the rod movment measurements, but is it also possible to measure the visable piston protrusion at working temprature? If so what should this length measurement be, at both cold and full working temprature? Also please could you tell me the direction to turn the idle speed control valve hexagan to decrease tickover. Thank you.
if you just remove the waxstat from the carb without disturbing the hoses no coolant will come out, so you can measure it cold and warm no problem. never adjust anything on the carb unless you are 100% positive all the parts are 100% working, start here: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/1-6-1-8-pierburg-2e2-carb-faq.124945/ for more advanced stuff, check my signature link for the pierburg 2e2 haynes manual pdf it has a lot more info on checking and resetting all the various linkages inside
I made this a couple of decades ago, when playing around with 2e2s: It was intended to work like the setting tool shown in either Haynes or more specialist manual, I forget which. I have a fairly extensive hardcopy library of Pierburg stuff including but not exclusively about the 2e2, must go through it and stick it up for sale I think. Anyhow, if you'd like this ^ setting tool, PM me a delivery address and I'll post it to you. Chances a very high that your waxstat has lost some/all of its wax and isn't bringing the starting idle speed down as it warms up like it ought.
Thank you EZ-Pete for your reply and picture of the Pierburg 2e2 setting tool. I would be very gratfull for the setting tool, as I have owned this 1989 driver for 31 years and covered over 214,000 happy miles,and aim to reach the 40 year no road tax rule. Likewise I have managed to recover a Mk2 Jetta GTX 1987 model which also shares the 2e2 carb.with a different autochoke wiring layout. I would certainly be very intrested in your hardcopy library, that you mention for sale. Thank you for your advice Robin
Hi Robin, I've made a note of your contact info, and will be in touch tomorrow afternoon once I've had a look through what might be most useful to you. In the meantime I'll suggest you or a moderator edits out the personal data to limit the chances of it being misused.
Help admin. rubjonny, please could you remove my details as advised by EZ-Pete in his reply at 8;21 PM Yesterday October 14th Likewise thank you for your prompt reply 7th October
Thank you, I hope you have had a better day than this part of Wales, look forward to chatting about the 2e2
Thank you for the above rubjonny, and note that you have removed the details EZ- Pete advised. Reading some of his advice on 2e2Waxstat, he mentions that the Waxstat is screwthread adjustable in the plastic body version, to attain the 2mm measurement. Does this also apply to the alloy body Waxstat? Thank you
I believe it will also apply to the alloy version, yes. I guess it's how the starting position is calibrated when the thing is put together. Obviously you need a two-pronged tool to rotate the brass body with, I can't remember making such a thing, maybe some long nosed pliers might work. I found myself wondering how that thread is sealed to prevent coolant leakage, and suspect that is part of the function of the green lacquer-like stuff that you see in photos of these such as here: Pierburg 2E2 & 2E3 Carb Wax Stat 026129243C (classic-vw.co.uk) Re-sealing after any adjustment would seem like a good idea, as parallel screwthreads don't generally seal without help from something. I've just bunged everything Pierburg-related in a jiffybag for you, including the setting tool mentioned before. It's not going to cost much to post, and I don't really want any money for any of the material. Just happy it's going to someone with an interest who may get some benefit. There's a Pierburg and Solex carbs manual by Haynes, a few VAG service booklets covering 2e2,2e3 and 2ee carbs, an old Practical Motorist mag with an article on 2e2 rebuild, and a wodge of A4 sheets about the 2E2 that some kind soul at GSF sent me (and many others apparently) on request, without charge. I will have scribbled in/on many of the diagrams, hopefully without obscuring any of the original info or adding any errors of mine.
Hello EZ-Pete Thank you for your very kind gift,I am certainly looking forward to the arrival. Having owned this Mk2 for 31 years it is well and truly a member of the family, with many milestones of our family life.I will be looking after it for the rest of my life, it is so reliable, a pleasure to drive, admired by many. Please if you ever come to Wales give us a call before your visit, so June can have plenty of home made goodies ready. With all best wishes and thank you for your kindness.
Hello EZ-Pete A big thank you, your post arrived today. I am very very impressed by your tool making skill,and the enclosed information. I hope you will be able to visit us, in this part of rural Wales With all best wishes Robin
Good stuff, I'll bear your kind invitation in mind. In the meantime, if the material overwhelms, confuses or fails to answer any questions that you have, please do keep asking on here. I remembered another strategy I once dreamt up for compensating for an under-extending waxstat, and that was to replace the part that it pushes on with a longer version, or simply interposing something between the two. Not sure of the feasibility or economics of finding an actual new replacement waxstat in 2022>
Searching for a quite different photo I came across this one, which confirms the reference point for the measurement of 2mm, cold, but also mentions applying some force to the pin while measuring, which I hadn't remembered. Not sure if that image is amongst the material you now have; quite likely. https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8zfk5w8b8hkdup/Waxstatcheck.jpg?dl=0
Hello EZ-Pete Yes thank you I have these setings. Rather than removing waxstat from water supply I've used my hot air gun directed onto the body, but limited movment, certainly not 1- 2mm as required. Your idea of producing a longer plunger, certainly makes sence. My waxstat rod when cold is 2.64mm bellow the flange, so I am thinking 2.64 + flange width + required 1-2mm above flange should, added too the original plunger, give reqired fabrication length? In my V.W. parts, I,ve got a R.P.L MANUAL CHOKE CONVERSION KIT Ref:RCK28. I am not that keen to fit it as I would like to keep this car original.But if needs must, have you had any experience of using these kits? One person has mentioned problems, but no details of problems the kit presents. Thank you Robin
