Thanks Adlai- this week it will hopefully be rolling on Golf hubs/CV so I can measure up for driveshafts. Will also mount the Mk4 GTi gear shift tower in the Polo, measure cable lengths required, and get those ordered. For now my new (old) box arrived, ENJ code with a 3.6FD bargain from eBay at 60 (you Golf chaps have it easy, G40 chocolate boxes are 250-300!) so Ill clean this up and swap the 100mm output flanges to it before installing. Basically ENJ ratios are more suited to the Polo, although it means Ill have to use 5th on the strip (smaller rolling radius of slick) but means I can start in 2nd probably. All for now Cheers Pete P.S If anyone has engines apart at the moment, please could they take a measurement for me, Id like to know the distance from the flywheel mating face, to the starter motor housing on the gearbox. I know fitting an adapter plate and crank palm geometry is different from Golf to Polo, so will have to account for this in my flywheel.
Mounted the Mk4 Golf gear shifter: Now can measure up for cables and get Ringspann to make them And I've mocked up both driveshafts, will send off to Reco-prop to be made properly. Parts used are: Mk1 Golf GTi Wheel Hub Mk3 Polo Strut Housing Mk3 Polo Wheel Bearing Mk1 Golf GTi Outer CV Mk3 Golf 100mm Output Flanges Mk2 Golf Inner CV Mk3 Golf GTi driveshafts Fairly good mix of VW bits! So, starts with two halves of shafts: Make sure both the CV are halfway in their plunge depth: Find a piece of CDS that will slide over: Tack and weld together: Refit to car: Driveshaft has hardly any angle, which I'm happy with ;D Rinse and repeat on the OSF: Cheers Pete
So, a few minor updates, I've mostly been busy ordering parts and trying to keep everything on the boil. Run into some difficulties fitting the rear coolant pipe, and the thermostat housing. Solved that by turning the 'stat housing through 180' and welding a bend in the coolant pipe- will probably have to add a de-gas line to the stat housing in the future. And the up-side down 'stat: With that kind of done, I could get on with installing the cooling pack, as nothing can be left alone on this car, I wanted to tweak things slightly, continuous improvement and all that (also known as compulsive meddling). So, few bits to consider for front end minor re-hash: - Get rid of old bumper bar, most G40 owners with big intercoolers have hacked these to death, and they serve no purpose in a crash - Make the front bumper easily removable (was on two 10mm bolts) for easy loading on the trailer - Move the IC closer to the bumper, allowing ducting and a more efficient air path - Move radiator forward allowing more space for alternative downpipe routing if required - Make it all look race spec etc. First up, sack the old bits off, and make some new end plates from 5mm sheet: I'll make these slightly smaller and slighter in due course, then get a piece of CDS cut to length and bent: Plug #1 : http://www.tube-bender.co.uk/ Tom who runs Tube Bender was a very nice chap, and affordable, also had the bonus of being a few miles away * After that I fitted the intercooler up, and tweaked its position: The slight angle allows it to sit nicely against the bumper, speaking of the bumper this was then hacked to bits, holes drilled for catches, and bits cut out to shape around the IC: And the semi-finished product: Shut lines nee a slight tweak, but it slides on and off like a good 'un, so next bits are welding top tabs on for the IC and radiator supports, then boost hoses and coolant pipe routing. I've also been busy with drive shaft manufacture and have chosen Elite in Stoke to make them: http://www.eliteracingtransmissions.com/ not cheap, but I don't want to buy twice. Also had several e-mail exchanges with Gordon from Ringspann, who was very helpful - unfortunately bespoke cables are far too expensive, so I've used these guys: http://www.cable-tec.co.uk/ to alter some standard Mk4 Golf cables to length, I'll post results when done. Cheers Pete
So, finished off the bumper bar and lower radiator/IC support bar. First up, top mounts for the radiator: Then bottom mounts: Now the rad and IC have a fairly consistent air gap between them, I've moved them much further forward to previously, hopefully the bumper aperture will direct more air over them both. Finished (less paint) bars: And with the bumper fitted up - note top radiator supports ensure a good fit against them slam panel: Cables on their way, and some clutch bits from TPS, all for now! Cheers Pete
I like the repositioning of the rads. It is something I've looked to have done but the front apron of the mk1 doesn't make air flow to them easy. Gurds
So, been busy recently- the engine bay welding is now complete, and my to-do list is slightly shorter: Coolant Pipes Fit & make sump Fit crank pulley end plate Fit turbo Downpipe Modification Rear Wheel Stud Brake line Tabs weld on Vactan / Chassis leg rust protection Oil Cooler Brackets (oil filter) Starter Motor Wiring Earth Cable New Adapter Plate Oil Pump Welding Alternator Mounting Repair Rear Exhaust Hanger Now I've got gear shift cables that work I mocked everything up and adjusted accordingly. Very easy to setup compared to the Polo rod linkage, one of the selector ends fouled my engine mount slightly, so I modified that: I then gave the bumper bar and intercooler/radiator bar a lick of paint: After that it was time to move my attention to the OSF chassis leg, the crank pulley requires more clearance, and I need to rear mount the alternator and run the belt here. Removing the front ARB bracket wasn't an option as I wanted to maintain original suspension pickup locations. So, out with the grinder: Usual drill, cut away what isn't required, plate with 3mm steel and stick it together with some weld. I may gusset up the chassis leg still, undecided yet. Then back to the NSF leg, made clearance holes and welded studs in for the coil mount: Few more bits were done after this, but left it looking fairly complete: So, chuck the frame back on and push it outside for a wash: And after that a few tweaks to the position of the bumper bar: The bumper is sitting better than it ever did stock: All for now, cheers Pete
Cheers all- final push now, getting married in 5 weeks, and really want it as my wedding car. Got a trackday booked a few weeks after that too... My first problem was the flywheel/starter interface. I had made a few assumptions: - Polo crank palm geometry was the same as a Golf in relation to the block/gearbox mounting face - Added an adapter plate into the mix (moving gearbox 10mm further from the crank palm) - Starter and clutch engagement would be fine :-X So, once mocked up the starter did not have enough throw to engage, it was 12mm short (about the thickness of that adapter plate then...!) With that in mind I was concerned about needing a bespoke flywheel- I've tried to retain OEM or off the shelf parts as much as possible. Handy for spares in the future, and often alternatives are available, such as engine mounts, with can be swapped for softer items should they be required. Whilst doing some internet geeking, I came across Epytec, a German company- who offered a very light G60 esque flywheel, and an adapter ring (14mm) for a 02M conversion whilst maintaining the lighter fly I believe. Anyway, parts duly ordered, CAD station shutdown, and brews consumed. Parts arrived: So, onto the scales with you lot: Polo G40 PY Lightened flywheel: Polo G40 Helix Paddle Clutch: Golf G60 Lightened Flywheel: Golf VR6 Clutch: EPYTEC Golf G60 Flywheel: So, totals look like this: Polo G40 Lightened Flywheel & Helix Clutch: 8.38kg Golf G60 Lightened Flywheel & VR6 Clutch: 13.37kg EPYTEC Flywheel & VR6 Clutch: 9.87kg So 1490g on the mass of flywheel/clutch - which is still lighter than a stock G40 setup I believe, inertia clearly different as Golf components are larger. But for now, I'm happy it's ballpark. Engine response and characteristics shouldn't change drastically. I have also cracked on and painted the bay with Halfrauds paint and 2k lacquer, although I think I've sprayed the car in too low an ambient, the lacquer hasn't gone off properly and can be marred easily. No biggie, but frustrating. I also cut and shut the downpipe and exhaust to accommodate the new engine angle, this took a full day (10hrs) of mocking up, tacking, removing, and then finally fully welding. My stainless MIG isn't pretty, but it'll be covered in exhaust wrap. Also remade the rear hanger, so that's another few big jobs off the list. And for me the most satisfying part, bolting things on that aren't designed for a Polo, win! Cheers Pete
New alternator time- old one is too large to mount under the inlet manifold, so I ordered a Brise 60A one, it's a little lighter too, goes some way to offsetting the 02J/085 weight gain. And then knocked up a bracket out of L-section, mounts off some redundant holes on the back of the block. Need to get the crank pulley back from a friend so I can work out where to put the tension arm. It *just* clears the steering arm Cheers Pete
fantastic build, just read the lot. quality fabrication love the gearbox mods and cant wait to see the driveshaft's!!
So, got everything bolted together today, and the golf starter to turn the polo engine over, result! Need 2mm removing from the flywheel spacer, but that can be done this week. Full steam ahead! Alternator now finished, just need a longer belt and job's a good 'un ;D My new shiny bottom pulley, big thanks to my mate Jake who knocked this up after work, clever chap! I then added a couple of rose joints and piece of threaded bar to tension the belt with: Lots of small jobs to now complete, hopefully this will be the last time the engine is in/out for a few weeks. I've also had cut another adapter plate with more clearance, and drilled that this morning, all fitted fine, just waiting for some fresh fastners to arrive, and then it can get built back up properly. Cheers Pete
So, a busy weekend of car related activities, first job was to lower the daily! Set of KW Inox V2 coilovers: And one lowered Audi: However, it's settled a fair bit, so needs raising up again. On to the real stuff, new adapter plate and engine/gearbox mating! Larger hole for sump/end plate clearance: Sambo's thread about flywheel bolts was very timely, I ordered some Toureg Diesel bolts: The adapter plate between the crank palm and flywheel had 2mm turned off it (thanks Jake) standard runout was 7microns, post machining was 10, so happy with that. Next up the VR6 Sachs clutch, stock for now, will probably upgrade to an organic clutch when I go hydraulic MC in the future: Now time t get jiggy with the engine crane, a twisty chair, and some grunt, bit of spit and they're bolted up nicely: Then plop it in the bay, it went in from the top, with a little paint damage, and several swears. Would be easier with two people for sure! It's in! The *******.
Few little jobs left to do, bleed the brakes, realign a few clips and re route the clutch cable. MOT booked for Thursday morning :-\ Few more pics: List of jobs to do after wedding and honeymoon, pre-trackday. But I've got most of July to sort them ;D Drove it a short distance yesterday, shift tower has play in it, so will look at replacing it before the trackday. Have a vibration from the powertrain to chassis which I'll work out and tweak. Other than that, so far so good. Cheers Pete
Fresh MOT this morning, no advisories but always nice to get it up on a ramp and dig around underneath... and plan what to do next!
