If the timing is retarded you'll have nothing at low revs, then the power will come in a big lump further up. Did you set the timing at 2300 rpm, with the right hoses plugged, etc? I'd try advancing it a bit more... you can set them by ear with a bit of trial and error - just advance it to the point where the tick over is quickest and smoothest, then back it off a little bit.
The idle stabalisation temperature sensor you are looking for is Part no. 026 906 161. It has an M10 x 1 thread and screws into that flange in your second pic. It is the white 2 pin connector. I dont think that the blue sender you have in the first pic is for the radiator. I looks like a coolant temperature sender for the guage. What is the brass 'thing' in the vice may I ask, or shouldn't I. My guess would be the leftovers of the thermal fan switch that once screwed into your radiator? I did try a search for it but I'm coming up empty-handed.
If you're having a problem sorting the ignition timing I'm only in Nuneaton and I have a timing light
wait you want the radiator thermoswitch? the blue one is coolant temp sender for the ECU on post 88 MK2 digifant! radiator 3 pin sender is 191 959 481 A, 27.47+VAT
im getting even more confused now.... To sort this timing am i supposed to change the sensor in the bottom of the rad or the one near the dizzy on the cooling housing going into the engine block? I have attempted the timing before but couldnt get the timing mark to stop moving erratically, when i did the engine ran like rubbish. So what else could be the problem? She now has new HT leads, Dizzy Cap, Rotor arm, spark plugs. The copper part is the housing for the sensor next to it. The copper part screws into the bottom of the rad.
the rad thermoswitch has nothing to do with the ecu, its just for the fan. when you set the timing the sensor isnt even plugged in so if the timing mark is erratic the problem is elsewhere, i'd be looking at engine earths, ignition components plus the knock sensor. you need the white ecu temp sensor if you want to replace it, but nothing so far suggests it has a problem yet. its the one which costs over 30, ive posted the number in the other thread we were chatting in.
RJ, what does the knock sensor do? mine has seen better days. got a vw prt no as well please? thanks muchly
it detects engine knock, it probably isnt the cause but if the sensor wiring is all knackered and cracked maybe its sending bad signals to the ecu. i would just get down the scrappy and find one off a mk3 gti which is in good nick. just make sure you do it up to the right torque. 054 905 377 A - knock sensor - 53.51+VAT
thought i'd jump in on this one as I have just rebuild the whole top end of my PB, Be aware that gsf seem to have part numbers mixed up a little with the coolant front flange, they tried giving me a carb one, and tried telling me it was correct until I showed them the injected engine one Looks like you have the older style PB there with the metal flange and as RJ said the white sensor as apposed to blue like mine. Got mine firing and running last night after replacing the head (from my old golf) gasket set, seals, belts, rebuilt tappets, stem seals etc, the whole works. She now runs but very VERY roughly, Very tappety but probably because I have had it sat for a year so must be loads of sludge in the engine and considering the HG went before I rebuilt it probably has mayo and all sorts of muck in the sump, would this make sense RJ? If it helps I set my basic timing up by finding TDC on piston using a 19mm socket on crank and pencil through sparkplug #1 hole to find the highest point, Then set cam aligned with rocker cover on compression stroke (you can tell as both #1 lobes should be pointing in an upwards direction so the valves are closed), then intermediate shaft aligned using the RJ method IE; rotor arm pointing at #1 spark plug on dizzy cap (I marked my leads 1234 before disassembly so was easier for me) Some final checks all around to make sure flywheel notch was aligned (triangle pointer on gearbox housing to dot on flywheel, to the right of diamond on fly) Eventually she fired up but is running like SH*TE, need to get timing light on it but really want to get some oil around the tappets first so I know the valves are closing properly. Sorry if I have hijacked this thread but it may help as I am in the same process.....
wouldn't have thought sludge would effect the running of the engine, i suppose if it was really bad the tappets could be all clogged whichwill give you valve clearance problems if totally flat. its a good idea to give it a good service anyway, i would drop all the oil then refill with cheap oil + filter and a litre of atf and run it till warm to help clean out all the crud. let it cool drop oil again then refuill with synta silver/fuchs titan and a good oem mann filter then see how it is. plus if the leads, cap, arm and plugs are old i would buy new ones from http://www.vwspares.co.uk.
Rubjonny, I stripped the tappets and fully cleaned, serviced them, they had been sat in clean oil till i put them in a few days ago, but what i mean is that if the oil pump was picking up crap oil and stuff or not being able to get the oil up to the head due to crud and the fact it has been sat for ages. Why ATF?? do you mean automatic transmission fluid? and if so why use this? has it got detergents in it or something? (sorry if this is a silly question) Thanks
oil has to get thru the filter first so you'll probably be ok, if it was really bad the oil light would come on at idle as the sensor sits in the head. yeah the atf has detergents in which can break up oily crud in the engine, but dont use it unless you have to as it can clean out all the old gunk holding knackered shrunken seals/oil coolers together and introduce leaks. best bet is drain the oil and remove filter then make a call based on how bad it is p.s. next time if you go to all the effort of cleanign and rebuilding tappets, put fresh oil and filter on it!
I stuck half a litre of ATF in a rattly old PB engine on Sunday, that hasn't been used for a while, except to drive the car in and out of the workshop. I left it idling for 20 minutes and it went from rattling like a bag of spanners, to quiet and silky smooth. Hopefully it'll still be the same when I start it up next, although sometimes it can take a week or so of gentle running around.
Thanks RJ, I realize that now I got the head all built up spotlessly aswell lol (ohwell live and learn) I will try again tonight or tomorrow, I just didnt want to run the engine if there was no oil coming up to the head for too long as you know what happens Incidentally I will post up my mini project thread in the next few days as getting the engine going is one of the last jobs. I have made my previously red/pink mk2 matte black (been done before I know) but it looks good!! I done it in my garden with rattle cans!! going for the rat look, old style plates, recaro's from a xr2, stripped out, debadged and a few nice subtle styling touches (I think so anyway) so have a look when it comes up. let me know what you think. Did this guy sort his problem before I rudely interrupted the thread ????????????
Did this guy sort his problem before I rudely interrupted the thread ????????????[/QUOTE] Nope [:^(] but no worries any way mate. I have been down sandburns they didnt have a clue what the mk3 sensor housing was. Do you have a pic?. they did sell me early sensors at 5 a piece though, so hopefully they work. So the knock sensor? what does it do? will vw sell one? Does it effect timing/running of the engine? Maybe its the mileage on the engine? 180,000 and its in need of some more major work (havent got a clue what mind you!)
Nope [:^(] but no worries any way mate. I have been down sandburns they didnt have a clue what the mk3 sensor housing was. Do you have a pic?. they did sell me early sensors at 5 a piece though, so hopefully they work. So the knock sensor? what does it do? will vw sell one? Does it effect timing/running of the engine? Maybe its the mileage on the engine? 180,000 and its in need of some more major work (havent got a clue what mind you!)
its post 88 mk2 digi housing you need, not mk3. tho a mk3 will work but you also need some of the coolant hoses as well. i answered the knock sensor question above
Good analogy Mike! I don't think the knock sensor would stop it starting or make it run badly, i'm pretty sure it only has an effect if it is operational ie: hears a knock. Mine is knackered and tattered too. Sre you after the metal water flange/housing that is in your picture with the temp sender on it? If so I have one you can have if you want it. or get one from ebay for like 10 .
id be worried if its badly broken down the wiring could be shorting out, which the ecu wont like much! i got one off a random 2.0 8v audi. mk3s usually have one in good nick. abf one works on mk2 as well i gave a spare abf sensor i had to a mate of mine edit: oh and make sure you use a torque wrench to do the bolt up, they dont work right if you get the torque wrong plus too tight will kill em
