Well the Golf restoration has taken a turn for the worse, took all the trims off and there's some tin worrm!. Can someone confirm I've ordered the right part for this mess at the back of the car?. I've also ordered a pair of outer sills. I'm chopping sills out dropping rear beam but trying to work out how to support the rear of the car as I can't really jack on the sills and my preferred spot (under beam mounts) won't be there?. Don't fancy using the floor really. Any input appreciated. Engines out so I suppose I could try and hire a car repair jig/ spit roast but room is an issue on the drive.
Fabricate 2 x extensions that utilise the bumper iron holes / bolts, that can be supported away from the rear of the car?
Cheers, will have a look into that. I've ordered some wheel dollies as back brakes are seized on and access is problematic down the drivers side. Ironic really as one of my jobs was take some decent jacking points!. Might reinforce the new brackets before fitting them.
I've got some 50mm box section coming to make a lift for the back. Are the rear bumper outriggers a solid part of the chassis?.
the part you bought is just the outer skin which fits over and around the bolt holes for the beam, underneath is a solid hunk of steel which shouldn't need to be messed with but depends how far the rot has got thru it what I'm planning is to modify the front and rear jack points to accept the nice rubber jack pad insert things from the audi tt/a3. up front I'll be adding more strength inside as well just to beef it up but keep the outside looking standard. one day. maybe.
I've bought the TT jack point savers!. Looking at a few post there seems to be jacking points behind the rear bumper?. Ideally I'm going to make a jacking beam across the back (1 jack to lift rear end). Will have to tell MOT station not to jack on my new shiny rear mounts. For me a rubber pad across the front rear subframe and a jacking beam across the back will be ideal.
I never jacked on the sill or "jacking points", looks like someone has caved the sill point in at the back at some point. Maybe some flat 5mm steel plates welded to bottom of beam mounts would be handy too?.
At the back there are metal U brackets on the shell where the car was attached to the assembly line near the bumper, but I'm not sure if they're strong enough to lift from on a car which is fully assembled if that makes sense. The rear lifting points are plenty strong enough (as in, the ones on the chassis leg near the beam not the sill) and they dont suffer as much as the front jacking points do. looking at your pics, someone has actually missed the lifting points and jacked the car up too far forward, as well as caving in your sills by lifting on them in the wrong place as well the correct rear lifting point is right next to the beam bracket, thats where all the strengthening is underneath. for the sills its where the arrow is pointing, but you need a shaped adaptor so it lifts from the actual sill not the welded seam (see widowmaker jack for details) up front its the dimple welded to the floor pan, but these are never trustworthy as they are really prone to rotting out from the inside, so the first you know about it is when jack goes up but the car does not
Might cut front dimples off and add a 5mm plate to rear engine subframe for jacking front. I lifted front of car with my Snap-on 2 ton jack on subframe with no issues. Will see what these jacking point savers look like fitted. Think for the back a modified beam mount with jacking point is way to go, them paint jack points yellow and hope MOT shop follow my thinking!. Was thinking of reinforcing sills with some angle iron when rebuilding them by probably overkill and I'm overthinking stuff again..
All the std lifting areas are fine as is so long as the rot hasn't got in but I would definitely strengthen the front ones and look at drain hole points to stop them staying damp too long. There are a few holes into that section that's the trouble for the splash guard mounting screws so unless you delete those moisture will get in Sills as is are strong enough so long as.peiple.actually jack on them where they're supposed to and use shaped adaptors to avoid squashing the seam but adding more strength isn't a bad thing, I've seen people weld in holes for side fitting Motorsport style jack's But tbh you should.only use the sills if you need to change wheel by the road side anyway
Built a frame off the bumper mounts today, I suppose that's same place you'd use for a car rotisserie?. Will have a beam across middle of car just in case but will have to move that about when chopping stuff out. Got the front mobile on sill/ chassis trolley.
