Relocating ABF alternator

Discussion in '16-valve' started by H8SV8S, Jan 26, 2004.

  1. H8SV8S Forum Member

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    Can I do this on the ABF 16v? I was thinking it might be possible to move it down into the position of the a/c unit (as I never use the a/c anyway).

    I have to get around to posting some digi photos, but it seems the ABF alternator sits higher than the 9a 16v etc... am I right? I had to re-machine the t/b inlet manifold at a sharper angle to clear the alternator and now want more space to make a cold-air box...
     
  2. harry_the_cake Forum Junkie

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    Do a search on vwvortex forums. The yanks talk about this alot.

    You need to get a different crank pulley and a non AC lower bracket I believe.
     
  3. H8SV8S Forum Member

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    Cheers Harry
     
  4. RobT

    RobT Forum Junkie

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    The ABF alternator is definately higher up than in a 9A or KR, its because of the auto auxillary belt tensioner thingy

    Have you ever seen a G60 16V ?...the alternator is above the exhaust manifold....when I did my TB conversion I was thinking of doing this but somehow never got round to it...there is a company in the states that makes kits to convert 16V's to 16V G60's

    http://www.bahnbrenner.com/

    and I think they sell the required bracketry...would give loads of room for an airbox

    WOT are you getting out of your TB Ibiza now ?

    Cheers

    Rob
    Edited by: RobT
     
  5. H8SV8S Forum Member

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    Thought it was higher, thanks for confirming. I've seen the bahn brenner kit and had the same idea; I'm just trying some heat shields and ducts to try and block the hot air and channel as much cold air in as I can. I should have it all made up in a couple of weeks, so I'll post some pics.

    My ECU was set-up/mapped on the road instead of a dyno, so I have no power figures. The car ran sh1t (by normal t/b 16v standards anyway) so am in the middle of changing workshops as the people that built the engine don't have much idea about VWs. I'm actually running standard head and cams at the moment (!!), but even before removing the dodgy ported head and cams that the above workshop put in, the power would've been under 180BHP and only a small gain in torque, due to the terrible set-up.

    I've got the engine mapped to the standard internals for the time being and it actually runs much better (a bit breathless past 6k rpm, though) and has 183 BHP and 219 Nm of torque (about 160lb/ft).

    I'm just deciding now between schrick 260/268's or 268/276's and how to go about the head (what have you done to your 16v head?). The car is a daily driver so needs the torque in the mid-range, so I reckon I'll get the 260/268's and aim for 190-200BHP with a well sorted head on standard size valves...

    Stu

    P.s. let me know how your's goes with the tubular manifold as I may do a similar thing (only running a cat-back at the moment)
     

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