I think I have to do that from underneath, along with detaching the exhaust from the downpipe , I'm not too sure as yet I haven't got that far lol
Just an update, I've finished unplugging everything now, I started unbolting the manifold at the back of the head(that holds the auxiliary air valve) but realised half way through that this can be left on & will be easier to remove after). I've unhooked the gear linkages(which I did from the top), taken the earth wires off, & think I'm ready now to unbolt the gearbox mountings, then I'll put another jack on the engine & will have the crane lift tomorrow(where I'll undo the other mountings) & fingers crossed I'll be in my shed tomorrow night with an engine to strip & clean regarding the driveshafts; do these need unbolting where the bolts have a spacer that holds two of the bolts?
Good evening everyone, I got the car ready for the actual lift & went to my friends garage to get the crane. Where he works, there are 3 garages & 1 he rents to a mobile mechanic(who, if I'm honest, is a much better mechanic than my friend), & when I got there I found out the crane is actually his. I asked him would the car benefit from stripping & cleaning(not replacing piston etc) & he said it wouldn't, & as the car runs fine he'd advise leaving it, but he can get it out for me so I can get the engine blasted & I'll repaint it & the bay. He also said to put everything back & he'll do a compression test for me(for free), to see whether I do actually need to strip the engine. So I've got everything back together, but I've stripped one of the smaller bolts that hold one of the injector wires onto the fuel distributor Is there anywhere I can get one of the bolts, they are 13mm & have 3 holes above the thread, of which is hollow? Also, the 2 wires leading to the plug on the radiator, 1 has snapped on the actual pin itself. I was also wondering can I buy this plug socket as it seems that I can unbolt it, or will it be a new radiator needed? Pics to follow>>>
I tightened the others up so the bolt nipped up, then used the ratchet & did a 1/4 turn on them all as I was scared of stripping them all Do these need to be done to a certain torque setting?
checks the cylinders for pressure, see if the o rings are doing their job. GSF for the parts or knowing the part number ebay.
Think I have a couple of banjo bolts ( metering head) knocking around. I'll have a look this afternoon and get back to you.
get a Haynes manual for your car first and read it. For the car, disconnect the battery. drain the coolant. disconnect the rad from the engine. then to disconnect anything that goes from the engine into the car. not much, heater pipes for the matrix. remove the driveshafts from the gearbox. work out where you are going to split the exhaust. as for removal, jack the car as high as you can, support the engine on a jack or two, slowly move the engine down and drag it out. __________________
Thanks, I do have a haynes manual & have read it. I was ready for the actual drop/lift(just had the mounts to do)but that mechanic told me to put it all back ready for a compression test so I've done that, but as I posted previously I stripped one of the nuts doh!
Great for pulling out the CIS injectors. AND if you tie a piece of string around it and your hand, it wont go flying when the injector pops out. Make sure you replace all of the copper crush washers when you reassemble. Dont you 'blokes' have Bentley manual over there? All your torque specs will be in there. In America, Haynes is junk.